Ok I am having much difficulties jetting my GS in. I have a full vance and hines amd the k&n pod filter. It has a dyno jet kit in it now with the smallest DJ main (122) the needle is set three steps richer then what the directions say to be at (directions say 2nd from top). The bike runs rich. I want to know if it is possible to use a larger main made by mikuni and bring the need leaner. Or will the mikuni main not work with the DJ needle? Also I was wondering if anyone else hgas this setup and what their jets are set at? (dynojet or mikuni)

You can run the 134 DJ mains and make it run right.  If it's rich at idle adjust the mixture screws, if it rich from 3000 to 7000 adjust the needles.  If it's rich with the throttle wide open above 7000 than it's the main.  What filter do you have?

I have a single pod K&N (goes over both carbs). I was thinking of just going back to the original needles and using 150 mains. Will that still work even after the diaphrams have been modified?

Why do you think the bike is running rich, and at what part of the throttle opening? You seem to have a strange set-up if you think it is rich - a small main with the needle set rich?

Personally, I think 150 Mikuni main is way rich, although Srinath swears by it. If you want to go back to stock jets and needles, I'd try more like 137.5 with your set-up. Not sure if you'd have to modify the slide back to srtock or not.

the plugs are black and so is the exhaust. I have a 145 and a 137.5 set that i could try when i get the new needles. What about the pilot jet anyone think i should swap it for a 40?

So the plugs are black from idling, 1/4 throttle, half throttle, or full throttle running? What size pilots do you have now?


http://204.71.0.3/motoprof/moto/mcycle/carb101/carb101.html
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/carb_jet_ranges.htm
http://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/tech/jetkit/

Allright, thanks for all the help. I will be getting some new DJ mains next week so I will let you know what happens.

OK Just FYI...DJ recomends that you try the 128 or 134 with the set up you have with the needle at the second from top notch. With 122 you are rich??? Impossible...Now where is your float set at... This guy I met recently showed me a thing or 2 about float level. The result...my 535 now has the float set to 9mm above stock and seems to run like a charm. Dont take that too literally...the 535 has a set of side load jets and a side filling float fitted into a down draft head. However you could have the floats set too high that it runs stinking rich at low throttle opening and right at the higher openings. With DJ needles you should be ~134 or 128. And stock needles 150...Hey Gino Vega how is the bike running BTW. He just swapped in K&N pod and 150/40/1 washer/3 turns carbs off dond6's bike into his stock and put full pipes on his (he was fitting them on as I was leaving).
Cool.
Srinath.

I checked the float height, it is right on. I am thinking it is rich because the person who originaly jetted the bike had the needle clip at the second from bottom position. Thats three down from what DJ recomends. Unfortunetlay I can't move it until I get the correct mains.

FYI I ordered the jets directly from DJ and it was cheaper then if I would of went to my local dealer. $2.00 ea and it was 4.50 shipping for all six jets. I am going to try either 134, 130, 126. I will have them in 3 days...

Briggs,

I seem to be going through the same dilema as you.  I too have the V&H full exhaust and last week I added the K&N pod filter.  My carbs were set up to run a uni+airbox-- 122 DJ mains, unsure about clip position.  Yesterday, I put in the 134 DJ mains without checking the needle position and had no luck.  Surely it's too rich.  Runs okay until anything past 1/4 throttle after which it bogs and dies.  I know that the needles are what controlls midrange-- 1/4 to 3/4 throttle-- but I seem to remember them being set per dynojet instructions.  So, today I'll be checking the needles for proper postion first, and if they're okay, switching to the 128 mains.  I'll let you know how things work out, if they do...  

A question I have for anyone qualified is...  Should I plug up the drilled holes in my venturi slide?  I haven't read enough to really know what the holes are for.  Do they allow for a richer initial mixture by delaying the raising of the slides?  I believe there are two holes in each slide, one of each is already plugged.

Thanks
Matt

P.S.  My float height is set to 1/16"...  Right on according to dynojet

Plug one hole and leave the other un touched.
DJ says to start with the needle in the second notch from top position. Blocking the holes makes the slide slower to rise and that causes the bike to not fall on its face when you open the throttle fast. Richer os leaner it dont much do anything to that...it just prevents a sudden drop in velocity from a opening that is suddenly larger.
Cool.
Srinath.

Well, I lowered the needles to the lowest possible setting (clip in highest position).  The bike seems to be better but I can't really test it because my wheel is currently off getting a new tire mounted.  I'm thinking that I'll probably have to go ahead and switch to the 128 DJ mains in order to get the correct mixture.  I'll know for sure how things are working tomorrow when I get my wheel back.  Will update...
Matt

Good luck tomarrow! At least it is nice to see that I am not the only one with problems!  

Okay, I finally got my problem straightend out.  Evidently my GS has developed a leak in the gas cap allowing water to seep in during rainy conditions.  After siphoning all of the water out of the gas tank, the 134 DJ mains and needles with clips in second from top position is the right combination after all.  The result...  The bike now sounds like a beast at anything past 1/3 throttle and pulls like a 600 from 8,000 to 11,000 rpm.  What an improvement!!  I've never really revved this bike due to the lack of power in the top end.  Now, I'm having a hard time not running it up to redline.  
Matt

Check that the drain hose isn't kinked. The area around the filler cap drains down a metal tube through the tank. A rubber hose comes off the tube under the tank. It is formed with a couple of 90 degree turns in it, to take it down past the carbs, airbox, and engine.

If that tube is kinked, or the drain tube blocked, then water could build up and leak into the tank through the tank air vent.