I've got a problem that I thought I figured out and apparently haven't:

Couple days ago I was working late and tried to start the bike to ride home at about 2am.  The temperature has dropped quite a bit in LA and the bike tried to crank once and then stopped igniting.  The starter will try to work maybe once, and then it makes this really strange buzzing noise somewhere deep in the engine.

At this point I'm thinking my oil isn't flowing becuase of low temp.  (I know it has enough because I recently topped it off with Spectro 4 Motorcycle lubricant SAE 10w40)

I wasn't really in the mood to trouble shoot at 2am so I got a ride home from my boss and came back the next day to see what was up.

Started first try.  So I'm thinking my temperature suspicions are confirmed, now I just need to figure out why she wouldn't start at low temp, even though she has before.

But then yesterday, during the day after a brief rainstorm, she totally refuses to start. 

Doesn't crank at all, just the distressing buzzing sound.

Also, I discovered something a little fishy with the clutch.  I can run through all the gears but if I put it in any gear besides neutral, even when I clutch in all the way I encounter some resistance when I roll the bike.  Related perhaps?

I'm thinking I might retension the clutch cable because it might feel a little loose, but then I'm a little paranoid now.

Any suggestions?  I can't keep bumming rides to work and want to make an attempt at repair myself before I shell out big $$$$.

Cheers and safe riding,
Andy

Clutch in, and in gear a dragging feel is normal. You are spinning some extra parts.
Buzzing noise when you hit the starter = relay clicking. your battery is on its last kegs. Or its cold enough over there to freeze your bike shut ... OK more than likely ... just freeze your battery, cos these bikes are capable of living through winter in alaska.
Cool.
Srinath.

Battery = dead. That's the buzzing, it's the relay clicking, like srinath said.

The other part in plain english (versus Srinath speak) is just clutch drag. The plates are separated, and bathed in oil. When the engine is cold, the oil is cold, and thick. It drags and creates friction, even though the two plates aren't touching each other.

So, both problems are entirely normal. Take the battery to an autozone and ask them to charge it. Better yet, go buy a battery tender, charge it yourself, and keep it on a trickle charger when you're not riding for more than a few days.

NGFL - The gears are spinning creating the extra resistance. The part of the clutch that is on the output side is spinning too also creating resistance ...
On close examination - the relay clicking usually can be isolated to right side under the riders butt area under the plastic.
Cool.
Srinath.

Quote from: seshadri_srinath on January 18, 2007, 01:25:34 PM
NGFL - The gears are spinning creating the extra resistance. The part of the clutch that is on the output side is spinning too also creating resistance ...
On close examination - the relay clicking usually can be isolated to right side under the riders butt area under the plastic.
Cool.
Srinath.

I thought it was the drag on the clutch plates that causes the extra friction? Isn't that why clutch drag applies, even in neutral? That's how it was explained to me.

Thanks guys,

Didn't think the battery would lose charge normally since I ride every day. I've got a charger and will use it.  But if it doesn't hold the charge I'll replace the battery.

Thanks again everyone.

Thought I might be getting a little paranoid about the clutch.  

If the battery stopped holding a charge, check your fluid levels before you replace it. Might be an easy, cheap fix.

Quote from: NiceGuysFinishLast on January 18, 2007, 01:33:32 PM

Quote from: seshadri_srinath on January 18, 2007, 01:25:34 PM
NGFL - The gears are spinning creating the extra resistance. The part of the clutch that is on the output side is spinning too also creating resistance ...
On close examination - the relay clicking usually can be isolated to right side under the riders butt area under the plastic.
Cool.
Srinath.

I thought it was the drag on the clutch plates that causes the extra friction? Isn't that why clutch drag applies, even in neutral? That's how it was explained to me.

A cluthc has an outer drum and an inner drum. The outer is driven by the crank via a gear. Inner drum is bolted to the shaft that transmission gears are mounted on. There is another shaft with more gears that mates to that one and that has the countershaft sproket on it. In neutral the countershaft spins and the gears in that shaft spin. The shaft that has the clutch basket does not spin. When In gear it will turn that shaft at the ratio of the engaged gear (higher gear = slower) and the clutch basket which will turn as a whole unit and with that gear spin the crank. Of course that is going to be really really hard ... compression etc ... Pull the clutch in and you disconnect the inner hub from the outer drum. If you look at a clutch pack ... you'd see steel rings with teeth on the inside and fiber rings with teeth on the outside. When they press together they lock the inner hub to outer basket ... pull in the cable, and you're barely putting ~1-2 mm of play for that dozen or so X 2 plates. Just about Enough to have one set stationary and the other spinning with the motor at idle in gear ...
Anyway ... you're spinning 1/2 the clutch and the whole transmission all in a bath of oil when you're pushing it in gear with the clutch pulled in. And just 1 transmission shaft in place of 2 and none of the clutch when you're in neutral.
Cool.
Srinath.

I'm having the same problem as well. So if I am understanding this correctly, it means that my battery is dead and i should go to a place and get it recharged to see if it works? I am quite lost at the whole clutch and resistence and all of that.

please enlighten me.

Took the battery out, charged it up, put it back in.

Works like a charm.   

Fluid seemed okay, but the battery is definetly old.

Two for two at this forum, I'm glad there's such a great community around this bike. 

Maybe one day, when I know what's going on I can help answer questions too....

Easy fix. Just like they said.

1. Check battery fluid level.
2. Add distilled water if needed.
3. Charge the battery.
4. If that doesn't work, its done. Replace the battery.

Battery's don't have a infinite life. After a certain number of charge and discharge cycles they are very weak, cold and heat brings out the worst in a battery.
Thanx NGFL and Srinath, that exchange was educational!

Always glad to be of service.