I've got my bike ('93 GS) in storage in my basement and I've finally got a few weekends when I can get these carbs cleaned.  Unfortunately I've found relatively little detailed info on how to do it even after searching. 

First, what manual do I need?  I've heard Haynes is better than Clymer?  I've also read that the FSM can be found online, but I can't find it after a google search.  I find old links that are dead.  Does anyone have the PDF or RAR file they can send me? 

Second, I read the writeup on the main GS500 page with the small pictures, but this looks like its a complete overhaul, which I'm not sure I need to do.  After troubleshooting here on the forum, the consensus seems to be my pilot jets are clogged.  Do I need to do everything on the writeup page to address that? 

Third, what parts do I need to replace and where can I get them?  I've read I should rejet (its bone stock), but does this require any more work than simply cleaning the jets?  I'm hesitant to take on more work than I need because of potential for f-ups.  I'm pretty good mechanically (I just replaced my valve train in my '99 M3 a couple months ago) but I have ZERO experience working on a bike. 

Any other advice?  Thanks for the help.

Rejet rejet rejet... The gs carbs are simple.. You should be able to get a rebuild kit either from the dealer or online.

Why does he need a rebuild kit?  His carbs don't leak.

You do not have to remove the airbox or battery to get the carbs out; you will need to remove the two mounting screws at the back of the airbox so you can pull it back in the frame to make room for the carbs to be pulled out.

Rejetting will require changing out the pilot jets and main jets, and if the brass plugs (search " removing brass plugs") haven't been removed that will require a little drilling (3-4mm depth) to remove the plugs (friction fit).

Pilot jets wanted are size 40 non-bleeder type, and the mains prefered are 125's.

Pilot jets may be difficult to remove, and require a very thin flathead screwdriver.  Spraying a little Liquid Wrench to loosen them up may help.  (search "pilot jets removal" for tips).

Well if I don't rejet would I have to remove them anyway to get them unclogged?  Unfortunately I've never really worked on a carb before, so I can't visualize how this all goes together.  I'm trying to figure out if its going to be as simple as just replacing the stock jets with the new ones when I put them back in or something.  But if I wouldn't ordinarily have to take them out to clean them, then I'll just forget the rejetting.  And if I can just clean them, do I need to replace any parts?  I'm sure these questions get asked all the time, but searching doesn't seem to help a whole lot.  Most of the answers look like this:

"Ya, just pull the carbs, pull the jets, rejet (you can get them online), clean it all in some carb cleaner, don't get the rubber stuff. Then put it all back in and start er up!  Easy, just use a writeup.  awesome"

Not all that descriptive for someone with literally no experience.     

Anyway, thanks for the replies. 

I know exactly how you feel, but it really is that easy.  Unscrew the jets, unclog them, and screw them back in.  Should take you about 1 1/2 hours the first time, and about 10 minutes each time there after.  Just make sure to make a good diagram of all the vacuum hoses.  Once you get the carbs off the bike, the light bulb will come on.

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=33105.msg368162#msg368162


Watch the Video it may Help you out

Quote from: Jughead on February 09, 2007, 10:59:01 AM
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=33105.msg368162#msg368162


Watch the Video it may Help you out

Thanks, I found that the other day posted by someone else too, but the links are dead. 

Hey Neon,
Where are you in MD? Where is Forest Hill?
I'm in Lancaster, PA, not that far I bet.
If you need help, let me know.
The carb cleaning is not that big a deal.
And you can make other changes while you are in there to get rid og the long warm-up time by changing the position of the stock spacing washers on the carb needles. All of this is easy and makes a big difference.
Let me know.
Personally, I think rejetting is good if you are swapping the exhaust but with the stock exhaust (which I prefer because it is quiet and unobtrusive to the rest of the world) , the needle washer switch makes a hug rideability improvement without hurting fuel mileage. I wouldn't rejet with a stock exhaust. Seems over the top to me. I run stock jetting, the needle washer swap and an aftermarket oiled foam Unifilter air filter that fits inside the stock airbox. I've been running this way since 1993 on my 1991 GS500. Works great.
Best wishes,
Todd

Quote from: Trwhouse on February 09, 2007, 12:39:44 PM
Hey Neon,
Where are you in MD? Where is Forest Hill?
I'm in Lancaster, PA, not that far I bet.
If you need help, let me know.
The carb cleaning is not that big a deal.
And you can make other changes while you are in there to get rid og the long warm-up time by changing the position of the stock spacing washers on the carb needles. All of this is easy and makes a big difference.
Let me know.
Personally, I think rejetting is good if you are swapping the exhaust but with the stock exhaust (which I prefer because it is quiet and unobtrusive to the rest of the world) , the needle washer switch makes a hug rideability improvement without hurting fuel mileage. I wouldn't rejet with a stock exhaust. Seems over the top to me. I run stock jetting, the needle washer swap and an aftermarket oiled foam Unifilter air filter that fits inside the stock airbox. I've been running this way since 1993 on my 1991 GS500. Works great.
Best wishes,
Todd

Nice, Lancaster is about 45 mins from me.  Forest Hill is only about 15-20 mins from the PA border on MD 24 (I just turn left on 24 and head through Rocks State Park for a GREAT ride)  Here's what I've got so far that I need: 2 #40 pilot jets (non-bleeder), 2 #125 main jets, and 2 #4 stainless washers (1 for each needle) for spacers.  I've gotten all this pieced together from bits of info I've found on this board and others.  Does this sound right?  You recommend not rejetting, but I've heard from so many others that this could help with cold starts, what do you think?

I might just take you up on that help if you were serious.  I've got plenty of beer 

This weekend I don't have much time to work, but I think I'll start taking things apart slowly just to get my bearings. 

Thanks for the advice!

Hi again Neon,
I used to work at a Suzuki dealership when I was in college. I've also worked in a Honda dealership.
At the Suzuki shop, one of the best mechanics there taught me the needle washer trick one day.
From the factory, most bikes are running very lean to meet emissions regs.
And from the factory, Suzukis have two small washers on the needle where the needle rests on the carb slide. One washer is on top of the needle's built-in "shelf" and one washer is below. The trick is as simple as switching the washers around -- putting the thicker one where the thinner one is and vice-versa.
That changes the needle position as it enters the carb body on the slide and presto, cold start-up is now reduced to a minute on the choke and life is then good.
You can do a rejetting. You can do all kinds of things. But I think it's unnecessary and wasteful with the stock exhaust.
My bike starts easily, idles on its own in a minute or so, doesn't have bigger main jets to consume more fuel and has none of the cold-start rideability issues that a stock bike has.
Honestly, this is a good way to go and you will be happy.
Do you have a warm garage to work in?
Best wishes,
Todd

Quote from: Trwhouse on February 09, 2007, 01:20:43 PM
Hi again Neon,
I used to work at a Suzuki dealership when I was in college. I've also worked in a Honda dealership.
At the Suzuki shop, one of the best mechanics there taught me the needle washer trick one day.
From the factory, most bikes are running very lean to meet emissions regs.
And from the factory, Suzukis have two small washers on the needle where the needle rests on the carb slide. One washer is on top of the needle's built-in "shelf" and one washer is below. The trick is as simple as switching the washers around -- putting the thicker one where the thinner one is and vice-versa.
That changes the needle position as it enters the carb body on the slide and presto, cold start-up is now reduced to a minute on the choke and life is then good.
You can do a rejetting. You can do all kinds of things. But I think it's unnecessary and wasteful with the stock exhaust.
My bike starts easily, idles on its own in a minute or so, doesn't have bigger main jets to consume more fuel and has none of the cold-start rideability issues that a stock bike has.
Honestly, this is a good way to go and you will be happy.
Do you have a warm garage to work in?
Best wishes,
Todd

Gotcha, maybe I'll just clean things up and do the washer trick then. 

Not heated garage, but my bike is in my heated basement (its all finished except the room the bike is in), so its definitely warm.  I'll give it a try though, I'm pretty decent mechanically.  Maybe I'll just PM you if I hit a snag, if that's cool.  Thanks again.