hey,
I'm in the process of repainting my exhaust. i had some trouble getting one of the header bolts out intially but once it popped out i moved on. Now upon reassembly I realize the last 1/4 of an inch or so broke off, I can see it in there. So i'm not sure what to do. I was thinking a bolt out kit maybe, right now I think i'm going to JB weld a small gauge piece of circular steel to one of the old bolts TO the end in the engine and try that. Any other ideas? PS I think it happened because my engine was warm when I took them out. LET IT COOL FIRST! duh.

-ash

I just read flyingbeagle thread with the same trouble. this is going to be a pain in the ass i can see it now.

If the end is sticking out of the Hole the least bit it shouldn't be too bad.Your going to have to Alternate between heating it with a torch and Using some Industrial Strength Lube like Aero kroil.Getting it out with an Easy out is about your Only Option.If you Screw up well it's Dril a Bigger Hole and either use a Timesert or Helicoil.Time and patients is you best friend Now.

I know this may sound like a kinda chinsey thing to do, but why not grind off 1/4" of the bolt, I mean there are enough threads already engaged that it should do no harm

Quote from: coll0412 on February 06, 2007, 10:52:02 PM
I know this may sound like a kinda chinsey thing to do, but why not grind off 1/4" of the bolt, I mean there are enough threads already engaged that it should do no harm

I  *think* that the 1/4" of the bolt is stuck in  the hole.    Hope you get it out!

Quote from: coll0412 on February 06, 2007, 10:52:02 PM
I know this may sound like a kinda chinsey thing to do, but why not grind off 1/4" of the bolt, I mean there are enough threads already engaged that it should do no harm

That doesnt sound nearly as 1/2 ass as say, just using one bolt. Which I'm doing for the time being.

-ash

I would suggest spark-errosion as being the best method, you would have to remove the cylinder block and find someone local who can do it though.

http://www.helicoilservices.co.uk/spark_eroding.htm

Find a local machine shop. Those guys know how to fix it.

OR

Pay yourself and learn in the process.

IIRC the bolts are close to 3/8 or so, so you can just center punch the bolt, then drill with a 1/16th under drill bit. You'll likely only need to go 5/8 of an inch deep. Then firmly tap in an 'easy out' bolt extractor. Tap -n- Turn, Tap -n- Turn, easy as you go.

Heat from the drilling may help the process. Make sure to soak it (anything that penetrates) overnight beforehand.

It's not difficult, provided the bolts weren't bottemed out and seized.

Oh, and for you adventurouse souls, you can A) weld a nut to the bolt B) burn it out C) drill and helicoil D) forget about it and wait for the other one to snap from the stresses (then do two at once!)

I was nervous about my header bolts seizing so a couple of months ago I pulled them out and put antiseize on them. Evidently a previous owner did the same thing since the bolts came out so easily. If you can get the other bolts out it would be worth the 5 minutes to antiseize them. Good luck getting the broken bolt out.

Quote from: ashman on February 06, 2007, 11:58:35 PM

Quote from: coll0412 on February 06, 2007, 10:52:02 PM
I know this may sound like a kinda chinsey thing to do, but why not grind off 1/4" of the bolt, I mean there are enough threads already engaged that it should do no harm

That doesnt sound nearly as 1/2 ass as say, just using one bolt. Which I'm doing for the time being.

-ash

Be very careful. I was told (by srinath) you can bend a valve doing this. Although you make think the exhaust is tight there is actually a leak since it doesn't have both screws in. This can cause the engine to run much more lean/hot and bend a valve. Get it fixed post haste.

Same thing happened to me, I ended up having the dealer take it out, then put copper oxide or something on the new bolts to prevent them from seizing up again.  good luck

Yeah, I'll probably try using a bolt extractor this weekend. To those thinking about repainting your exhaust, just remember the saying: if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

-ash

No if it's not Broke modify it.

Quote from: Jughead on February 07, 2007, 11:56:51 PM
No if it's not Broke modify it.

+1   

Mine broke flush with the head ... I drilled and helicoiled it. You have 3-4 threads in front of it, use a bolt that is just the right length or use washers and put one on ... dont bother getting it out. Front end had to come off so I can sit in there and work ... PITA, took 2 days and literally was the worst problem I ahve seen ... easier if you pull the head, but you'd need to hone it and gasket it etc then ...
Cool.
Srinath.

So I have spent the better part of the day battling with the bolt or piece of it that broke off. First I tried a bolt out and that was no good. Then I tried drilling it and that was slow and not nearly exact enough but I did make my way through it while staying fairly straight. So I figured I'd just use what was in there as a sleeve and I got a 1/4 inch tap. I figure well, 1/4 inch bolt would be stupid but at least something would be holding it there. Then my tap broke off.

So now I have a hollow 1/4 inch or so of a broken bolt with a tap inside of it. Seriously, if you never have to take your pipes off, DON'T!!! From here I'm just drinking a beer and taking all this wonderful fun in. I think I might just go with one bolt and keep my sanity.

-Ash

Quote from: tussey on February 07, 2007, 06:50:01 PM
Be very careful. I was told (by srinath) you can bend a valve doing this. Although you make think the exhaust is tight there is actually a leak since it doesn't have both screws in. This can cause the engine to run much more lean/hot and bend a valve. Get it fixed post haste.

Same thing happened to me, I ended up having the dealer take it out, then put copper oxide or something on the new bolts to prevent them from seizing up again.  good luck

Why would it be leaking if the bolt is broken off inside the hole?  Wouldnt the broken part be plugging it just the same as if a perfectly good bolt was in there?  Not saying your wrong, but I think your situation is better set for a header with a missing bolt.

Exhaust gas doesnt escape via the header bolt holes. The holes are blind and dont pass into the combustion-chamber in the head. The gas will escape from the gasket between the header flange and the exhaust port in the head because with one bolt missing the clamping/sealing effect will be reduced.

ah, makes sense...it was late when i posted that so I didnt really think about that part.

Quote from: ashman on February 10, 2007, 04:24:05 PM
Then my tap broke off.
-Ash

There's a good reason why you didn't post this shadetree remedy to the forum before attempting to implement it. 

I recall someone posting some useful info that might get you a last chance save.  It might require borrowing a Dremel tool.     
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Afzzr12
AMA Supersport Racer

    Re: Advice for getting around a broken off drill bit?
« Reply #1 on: December 17, 2006, 11:58:09 AM »   

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What we use around the shop we call a dental bur or rotary file.  It is a little carbide tipped ball on a spindle. They aren't that expensive and will eat through a High   speed steel drill bit pretty quick.  Just  be careful when using it because it will eat through the parent metal even quicker.  Lowes or Home depot has them by the drememl and router section.  Good luck.

Quote from: ashman on February 10, 2007, 04:24:05 PM
So I have spent the better part of the day battling with the bolt or piece of it that broke off. First I tried a bolt out and that was no good. Then I tried drilling it and that was slow and not nearly exact enough but I did make my way through it while staying fairly straight. So I figured I'd just use what was in there as a sleeve and I got a 1/4 inch tap. I figure well, 1/4 inch bolt would be stupid but at least something would be holding it there. Then my tap broke off.

Your comments reinforce the fact that this is a far from easy thing to do for someone with no knowledge or experience of what is involved with using easy-outs, drilling out broken bolts and reclaiming threads. You have just made a relatively easy job difficult and if you carry on trying to remove the tap and bolt you WILL end up causing more damage to the block. You will not be able to grind the tap out or drill it out with common tools, the tap is far too hard. You will not be able to use the exsisting threads in the block now and they will require a helicoil insert which you dont know how to fit. You need professional advice and help.
Check this link out.

http://www.brokentap.com/easy-outs.html