i would guess so.

Quote from: NiceGuysFinishLast on February 25, 2007, 11:21:22 PM
So, hypothetically speaking, could you get MY hands on one of these corby keypads? And give me tips as to wiring/programming? And how much $$ are we talking? Cuz I think it sounds like a fun idea...

Yup, I will check on it for you tomorow.....

Damien

Quote from: damiencovington on February 26, 2007, 10:22:41 PM

Quote from: NiceGuysFinishLast on February 25, 2007, 11:21:22 PM
So, hypothetically speaking, could you get MY hands on one of these corby keypads? And give me tips as to wiring/programming? And how much $$ are we talking? Cuz I think it sounds like a fun idea...

Yup, I will check on it for you tomorow.....

Damien

Awesome, thanks.

Hmm

http://cgi.ebay.com/RFID-Proximity-Door-Entry-Access-System-8-EM-tags-sa_W0QQitemZ290088143748QQihZ019QQcategoryZ41969QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Seems like that'd be easy to retrofit... except I don't know where I'd mount the keypad... under the seat? thoughts?

Found one even better

look Here

Reader, 2 fobs, antenna, and programming disc (For adding additional FOBs) for $29 USD. + $11.60 shipping to the US.

When the Fob is present, a pin goes high and stays high until the fob is removed. If I use that pin to run the starter, I'm set. The problem is then what to do with the lights/other electrical. Since my goal is lack of keys, I was wondering if it would be possible to wire all the lights to the kill switch.

The way I envision it:

Get on bike, flip kill switch on. Headlights/running lights come on, turn signals are functional, dash is lit, etc, but bike still won't start.

Pass key fob over antenna, press starter (obviously with clutch in) bike starts. Once the fob is removed, the starter no longer works. But everything else should still work, since it's wired to the kill switch.

I was thinking the fobs are small enough to be sewn into a jacket sleeve, so I just pass my arm over the antenna.

Thoughts?

I'm sorry but I'm still struggling to find a point to all of this.

you put a keypad under your seat & you'll still need the stock key to get under the seat to ACCESS the keypad....

dont tell me you're gonna also fab up a push-button to unlock the seat because that's making it seem MORE impractacle & possibly unsafe.


is it for bragging rights??

i dont mean any offense at all... I just dont get WHY. 

you put it in your sleeve...

where's the antenna mounted? While you're holding the clutch in w/ your left hand and thumbing the starter w/ your right hand; how are you passing your sleeve over the antenna?

how strong is the signal strength?

killswitching the lights is a great idea. especially when curious people touch bikes all the time, see a big red button, and flick it.
you come back to a dead battery.

all things to thing about... but I'm still trying to grasp some point to all of this

DAMMIT, you are negative. The point is because I like to tinker, and have fun, and play with my bike to make it my own.

You obviously didn't click the second link, as there is no keypad, simply a reader with an antenna and an LED to let you know the fob was recognized.


The antenna will probably be mounted under the top triple, with wiring run back under the tank to the area under the passenger seat.

Nominal range is about 3"... I'll probably disable the clutch safety switch, so that I can keep my left hand over the triple, and use my right hand to hit the starter.

I hadn't considered the bike double starting, but that's easy to rectify.

A. The antenna will be in the top triple, and my left arm shouldn't be going anywhere near that while riding. B. If I think that's an issue, I can always wire it so that the RFID doesn't trigger the starter itself, but instead triggers a switch (aka t-gate) that allows current to flow to the starter when I press the starter button.

Option B seems more logical, and not much more complicated to wire.

As for the dead battery issue, believe me, people have pointed it out.. it's a risk I'm willing to take... 90% of the time, the bike will be for riding to work, where I park on the sidewalk outside the front door, where I can check on my bike every 5 minutes, if I feel the need (I don't). It's parked on the basketball court outside my fraternity, where people walk past it at least once every 20 minutes, and nobody is ever in our parking lot anyway.

As for the underseat storage, you didn't read my other posts. I have no tail plastics, so I just have a cable sticking out to release the seat, for now. Eventually I'll get the subframe straightened so I can remount the plastics. My options are:

A. Fab up a pull handle for the rear plastics, which wouldn't be hard. B. Fab up some sort of push button mechanism that fits in the existing hole. Harder, but more aesthetically pleasing. C. Run a line from the "Fob recognized" pin to a solenoid to pull the release. That would be really neat (Yes, it would unlock my seat for a fraction of a second every time I started the bike, whatever), and not TOO mechanically hard, but also a lot more of a possibility for failure, so I'll probably stay away from it.


As for the point.. like I said, I like to tinker, I'm a Tech kid, it's what we do.

I am a tech kid DIYer too!!!  yay!! there ARE others like me. 

Check out this site : http://www.instructables.com/

---------------------------

Anyhoo.  I have a solution to your predicament that does not require an RFID. Of course do as you choose.

My Idea will completely bypass the need for a key for appling power to lights and starting the bike.  Locking the forks would not be possible unless the ignition is left on the bike.

The bike can be wired to only start if a series of switches are engaged. A "code" if you will. It is actually very simple, once you protect the existing switches with Diodes.

Say your "code" is pulling both the front brake and clutch in.  Designing a circuit that requires both switches engaged before power can be applied to the starter button and a relay that supplies power to the rest of the bike once the starter is engaged.

Disengaging the relay can be wired through the kill switch, effectively killing the motor, also.

Your "code" could be any combination of existing switches on the bike, i.e....highbeam, lowbeam, killswitch, left turn signal, right turn signal, front brake, rear brake, sidestand.....

you could even wire in a 6 pin toggle and have multiple "code" options to change your "codes" on the fly.

----------------

Effectively bypassing the need for a key.  Just turn on the left turn signal, pull the brake, pull the clutch and hit the start button.
Thats what your looking for, right?

easy enough circuit to build for anyone with basic electonic know-how.  I think.

Ya know 3imo.. that's a damn good idea, which never occured to me. And the gate level design should be simple. It's just a matter of implementing it with switches. Definitely something to ponder. I'll get back to you guys on this one.

You could make it a state machine for extra security.

I dont mean to come off as negative!

believe me, I'm a "techy" guy too in electrical Engineering.

I honestly dont see the prevous ideas as a practical solution to the problem or goal.
They are way too complicated for what they do & have too many factors & points that are cause for failure or unexpected/unwanted conditions.

THOUGH, with that said, I really like 3imo's idea. if you indend on doing this, that's the direction I would head in. Some security systems for cars will only allow the car to start when some "switch" is triggered. The car will only start with the heated-seat on for example. That's along with the stock ignition. You could bypass the GS ignition unit with a simple ON/OFF switch, as well as wire your code condition switches for starting.

RFID, recievers, & keypads are just too damn complicated to be practical.

I know.. practicality wasn't my goal... neat factor or cool factor was..

back in high school a buddy of mine had a CHEVETTE.  in the glove box was a household light switch, and a push botton start.