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Introduction, Story, and a Few Questions (kinda cheesy)

Started by Crash-n-Burn, March 25, 2007, 12:59:24 PM

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Crash-n-Burn

Hey guys,

I just wanted to introduce myself to everyone and give a back story. My name is Jason and I am eighteen years old and always dreamed of owning a motorcycle, I owned a dirt bike when I was in fifth grade and it was my pride and joy. When I first got the idea of buying a motorcycle I was sixteen and immediately went to the internet to find a safe bike. I found the yzf600r forums and was there for a while learning new info about the bike, somebody recommended the MSF which I took as passed with flying colors and got my M. This was all when I was 16, unfortunately I realized that I did not have enough extra money to spend on a bike and the purchase was put off.

Fast forward a few years of working, and this past winter I decided to buy a bike. I wanted the best starter bike that I could possibly buy and not knowing anybody that has a bike again I searched the internet for an answer. I came across this forum and after extensive reading and searching I purchased a 2005 GS500F with only 1400 miles on her. I bought a jacket, helmet, gloves, boots and I am going to buy some riding pants soon, all matching of course :). I posted a thread about dropping her in the garage (it broke my heart) but she is fixed up and I went on a wonderful ride today (my 2nd ride on the gs500f after owning it for about 2 weeks due to not starting and bad weather). I took her to a mechanic who is awesome and cheap. (Gen-X Performance) North of Chicago. Anyway that was my intro and I have a few questions some of which might be stupid.

I drive a manual car and I am used to shifting at around 3k rpm, I read that we should shaZam! at about 6-8k for normal riding, but I was wondering if I had to rev match, because currently the bike is giving me a little jerk forward?

Also I was wondering when you are slowing down for a red light do you shift down to 1st right away or do you slowly down shift as you approach the red light? I'm still getting used to remembering what gear I am in :) and turning off my turn signals.

When the bike is sitting in my garage overnight (or for a few days) should I keep it on the center stand or on the kick stand?

Anyway, just wanted to say hello and that this forum has been a wonderful source of information and I hope to be a part of it.

Thanks and hello!
Jason




mach1

nice bike it looks good :thumb:
so the shifting im guessing you mean jerking you back a little and that would be from poping the clutch to fast.
coming to a red light if i have time i will down shift to about second then use my brakes then go to first when im stopped or N which ever. now when i have to stop quickly i dont use my engine to stop me i use both front and rear brakes and nevr had her lock up at all. its really up to you, which ever way you decide to do it you can use the engine to slow you or your brakes i choose brakes cause they are cheaper to replace compared to an engine.IMHO
i leave my bike on the kickstand everytime unless i need to do work but if you feel  safer putting her on the center stand than go for it its your call.
i hope this is of some help to you and keep it safe and have fun.
04Gs,fenderectomy,V&H Full exhaust,Vortex clip-ons.13t front sprocket.,Uni Pods,22.5/65/147.5,Katana rear shock,M-1 metzeler 150 rear tire,Yamaha R6 Tail-SOLD
79 Honda CM185t-In restoration mode with this bike.DEAD slammed 2003 Honda Shadow 600, matte black everything 18inch ape hangers

blue05twin

That bike looks really familar. . . . .

Grats on the new bike. :thumb:
Pilot 22.5, Mid 65 , Mains 147.5, Mixture screw 3.5 turns out

Even if the voices aren't real they have some good ideas.

spc

Sharp bike!!!!  looks nice!!!  As far as being jerked when shifting,  yeah it's just popping the clutch too hard.  Just gotta figure out the release rate thats right for you mixed with the appropriate amount of throttle.  Also you can shift without clutching, at least upshift,  and I've never been jerked doing that regardless of throttle pressure.  As far as the braking,  I almost never touch my back brake usually just my front while popping down to N.  unless I have to stop real fast then I gradually reduce gearing with pretty solid front brake pressure letting each gear wind down to about 3-4k before downshifting.   just how I do it.

Crash-n-Burn

Thanks for the advice guys!

I'm going to try letting the clutch out slower, I'll see if that stops the little issue.  :icon_mrgreen:

CirclesCenter

Just remember 90% of what you'll hear here is horse poop.

If you have a decent head screwed on you'll know what's right by feel, following other people's advice when if feels wrong is just dumb.

(And about 90% of it WILL feel wrong.)

Take your time and don't let your ego make you do something stupid.

Only real directions I can give is to keep the rubber side down.
Rich, RIP.

spc

yeah rubber side down tends to be smoother than plastic or metal.......  don't ask how I found out.  I also learned that in hairy situations like getting into a tight curve thats a little over your head, instinct sucks just grab your balls and man up ride it out worst case you wreck, best case you learn how to ride better.

bettingpython

Have fun find what works for you :thumb:

I grab every gear on the way to a stop and only use enough brake to trip my brake lamps on the street. Trying to shift down through 3 0r 4 gears can become problematic and the tranny does not like it at a stand still, you can bend shifter forks trying to get a bike from 4th to first when your sitting at a light.

I do not put my bike in neutral until I am off the street, at all red lights I am pulled to one side of my lane and watch my rearviews until several cars have come to a stop behind me, it has happened where I have squirted between 2 rows of cars because some asshat was not gonna stop and rearended the car I was behind
Why didn't you just go the whole way and buy me a f@#king Kawasaki you bastards.

pandy

Welcome to GSTwin! ;)  :laugh:

If you need help resizing those pics, let us know...  :o :icon_mrgreen:
'06 SV650s (1 past Gixxer; 3 past GS500s)
I get blamed for EVERYTHING around here!
:woohoo:

spc

Yeah, I've found that downshifting  instead of braking is pretty damn effective.  I think it actually stops you a lot faster than clutch and brake....at least from any speed

frye

perelli speed demons,15t sprocket, full jardine racing exhaust, rejet. COMING SOON-SM bars,maybe a katana rear wheel

groff22

Welcome and congrats on the purchase... GS500=Wise decision

As for your question... "Also I was wondering when you are slowing down for a red light do you shift down to 1st right away or do you slowly down shift as you approach the red light?"

My advice is you shouldn't shift to first right away, just think what would happen if you were going 50MPH, had the clutch pulled in and in 1st gear... If for some reason your hand leaves the clutch you will be going far to fast for that gear and likely wreck ... Say good night GS500 and hello road burn. You should keep the bike in a gear that matches your speed at all times, even if the clutch is engaged... My .2cents

04' GS500F

bettingpython

Been to long since I rode the wifes bike but on mine up to 60mph I will use first gear for compression braking especially on the track, I dont remember the gears on the GS but I use compression braking by keeping the bike in the upper 60 to 70 percent of the rev range and knock it down a gear right around 7k rpm, Redline on the GS isn't much lower than my 954 so 6500 would probably work as the bottom end of the rev range. I don't blip the throttle or rev match either it takes too much time to screw around witht that instead I use a slow controlled release of the clutch to brake down the rear wheel and bring rpms back up at the same time though I almost never fullly disengage my clutch when shifting. About 1/2 a pull in on the clutch,(I keep my pinkie and ring finger wrapped around the grips and use 2 fingers to clutch) and a firm pressure to move it dpwn to the next lower gear. This is more of a track technique but it works well for me on the street as well just remember to pull the pinkie and ring finger out before clutching in for a complete stop.

There are many different techniques for riding a bike once you move beyond the basics of getting it rolling. There is no right answer. Many times I get the wagged fingers from police, although I am not speeding I tend to look like I'm going fast when using almost no steering input to control my bike, after 22 years now I find it easier to weight my pegs pivot around the tank and appllly heel and thigh pressure to make my bike point where I want it to go and increase or decrease throttle to adjust the width of my turns.
Why didn't you just go the whole way and buy me a f@#king Kawasaki you bastards.

GeeP

Welcome!  It is obvious you've put some thought into this.  You made the right choice for a first bike.  Put 10,000 miles or more on it, practice your parking lot manuvers, do a few trackdays and you'll be on your way to knowing how to REALLY ride.

The "jerk" you feel is drivetrain slack.  To shift, preload the shifter up with your left toe, pull in the clutch with your index and middle finger while using your pinky and ring finger to limit the travel while simultaneously flicking the throttle closed.  When you feel the shifter click, release the clutch and open up the throttle.  The faster you do it, the smoother it will be.  This takes lots of practice.

When slowing down I like to blip the throttle between gears to rev match.  Preload the shifter, pull in the clutch while blipping, release the clutch.  Again, the faster you do it, the better.  Try to keep the bike at around 4-6k on the street.  Always be in the correct gear for the speed.

A good way to get used to shifting is to pick a long, straight road with no traffic.  Cruise down the road at 55 or so and downshift one gear.  Then shift back up.  Keep going up and down just one gear until you can't feel the shift.  Then practice going down two and up two.  (Start downshifting at 5k or less).  When you can't feel that, start practicing downshifts from 6th to first using only engine braking.  When that works well, practice downshifting from 6th to 1st while braking with both the front and rear.  (This requires you to work the front brake and throttle with one hand.)  That will keep you busy for a few weeks.

That should keep you busy for a few weeks.    :icon_mrgreen:

Every zero you add to the tolerance adds a zero to the price.

If the product "fails" will the product liability insurance pay for the "failure" until it turns 18?

Red '96
Black MK2 SV

groff22

What do you mean by "preload the shifter"? How does that work?

  :dunno_white:

Cheers,
JG
04' GS500F

nightrider

#15
Quote from: Crash-n-Burn on March 25, 2007, 12:59:24 PM

I read that we should shaZam! at about 6-8k for normal riding, but I was wondering if I had to rev match, because currently the bike is giving me a little jerk forward?


I have never shaZam! while riding (knock on wood), although I have taken a leak more than once while skateboarding. This could be a time saver though. If it did happen on accident it would probably be at higher rpm.

spc

Yeah,  you could just lean your rear off to one side and let it go.  Then have some TP rigged up on the grab bar!!!! :laugh:  I'm sure the other drivers on that road would truly appreciate your ingenuity!!!!   :laugh:

RVertigo

1)  Shifting at 3k in a car seems way early to me...  What's the red-line on that car?  ???
     To actually answer your question...  You can shift anywhere from 3k to 11k on the GS...  (I wouldn't suggest shifting before 4.5k)
        For "normal" riding (aka putting around), I usually shift around 5k-6k
        For "Spirited" riding (aka not much traffic) I usually shift 7k-8k
        For "Ride it like you stole it" riding (aka how I ride when no one is around), I just shift before redline...

2)  I only ever shift into 1st when I'm at or near complete stop...  So, if I stop very quickly, I will shift all the way down......  Sometimes when I shift from 5th or 6th down to 1st, I can't actually get it to go into 1st.  To get around this problem, I let the clutch out enough to resynch, then shift the rest of the way........   

The BEST way to do it is to always be in the gear appropriate for your current speed.  That way, if you need to speed up again, you won't have to shift...  In other words, shift down as you slow down.

3)  Unless you have something leaking, the side-stand should be fine...  Basically, pick the one that's most stable.  I usually do the side-stand, 'cause it seems like it's easier to accidentally knock it off the center stand...   :dunno_white:

spc

Sometimes when I shift from 5th or 6th down to 1st, I can't actually get it to go into 1st.  To get around this problem, I let the clutch out enough to resynch, then shift the rest of the way........   

I have the same problem fortunately I don't use first much unless I'm coming to a dead stop.  Changing the front sprocket down 2 teeth pretty much makes first good to like 5 mph.................

RVertigo

Quote from: spcterry on March 27, 2007, 03:04:51 PMI have the same problem fortunately I don't use first much unless I'm coming to a dead stop.  Changing the front sprocket down 2 teeth pretty much makes first good to like 5 mph.................
*COUGHSQUIDSAYSWHATCOUGH*

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