starting in first seems fine.  when i goose it in the higher RPM range, it seems to slip.  the rpms climb faster than normal and the bike doesnt seem to pick up.  its almost like im squeezing the clutch lever a tad.  i loosened up the cable just in case; no different.

yes it sounds bad.

if you have freeplay in the lever when fully relesed and it slips when you wind it up your clutch is soon to be not of this world.

R.I.P. poor worn out clutch you have served long and hard.

$#i#... but why doesnt it slip on take off? 

Quote from: weaselnoze on March 27, 2007, 03:45:28 PM
$#i#t... but why doesnt it slip on take off? 

At low engine rev's torque and HP are low as the engine rpms increase so does the amount of torque until it reaches a point where the engine tourque overcomes the the friction of the clutch plates. This will only get worse.

:sniff: so how long does she have?

Cant say, clutch pack replacement is relatively easy, haven't had to do it to the wifes bike it has other, issues shouldn't take a person with the manual a few tools and the ability to read and understand the instructions more than an hour or two.

I'm new at all this stuff but mine was slipping when I first got it last year with 5100 miles on it.  I checked the cable adjuster for freeplay and such at the handlebar and it all seemed within spec.  I found out that someone had adjusted it wrong under the little cover next to my left foot (two screws and a small plate).  From what I gather that screw decides how far back out the pushrod is allowed to go when the lever is released.  It seems like with that adjusted incorrectly the clutch still wouldn't release all the way even if the lever was fully released.  So I adjusted that and no more slippage to date.

This is my .02 and hopefully someone that knows what they are doing will chime in to confirm. 

-J

how many miles do you have on the bike>?

i will have to check the adjustments once again.  from what i remember, the case has to be split for the clutch change.  that means removing the engine from the frame. not a 2 hour job if u follow.  its been awhile since i've worked on this bike so i'll have to dig out the manual and read old posts.  the bike has somewhere around 20K on it.  cant be sure since i threw away the old guages/.

Clutch basket is located under the cover on the right hand side of the engine. No need to remove the engine

Getting all the old gasket material off of the cover may be another story time wise.......

I am regasketing my wifes bike right now and that crap took forever to get off of the cover.

ahh ok.  so what did u pay for the new clutch?

Not doing the clutch, had oil leaks PO's worked on bike and were worthless mechanics.

try http://www.ronayers.com for parts fiche and pricing.

i see a million different parts for the clutch.  which part would likely be the culprit?

If your bike is a 92 like mine here are the parts I would need

7 of these http://www.ronayers.com/browseparts.cfm?searchstring=21441-37400
6 of these http://www.ronayers.com/BrowseParts.cfm?product_id=21451-28C31

These are the friction plates and drive plates. On my fiche diagram they are #7 and #8-2 which is suprseeded by the 28C31 part I posted the link to toal parts cost looks to be about $105 plus shipping. Make sure you have a manual. You could try a local stealership to see if they have them but typically when I order parts from the stealer they com in a Ron Ayers bag.