I installed progressive springs a little while ago and have really enjoyed the improvement.  Gone is the dive like a scared dolphin every time I have to crank down on the binders and rough pavement in a turn isn't nearly as unsettling as before.  15wt fork oil also seems to control fork movement a lot better, though I'm no suspension expert.

However, one problem I had at the time was getting the fork cap to thread correctly with a space installed.  I just couldn't get the threads to line up and catch with a ~1" spacer.  I ended up just installing the springs without any spacer, but I think a little more preload would help (I can still bottom the forks under hard downhill braking or larger bumps).  Is 1" just too much and its easier with the recommended 0.75" (I weigh 160 and ride pretty hard so I figured a little extra would help)?  With the spacer in I could compress the assemly down ok, though with some effort, but getting the fine threads to catch and not cross seemed nearly impossible.  Even without the spacer you have to feel carefully for the thread alignment.

Am I missing something?  All suggestions appreciated.

I had the same problem.  I cut my spacers down to either 5/8" or 3/4" I can't really remember.  I was starting to get a bruise on my palm from pressing so hard on the fork cap.  It was still difficult to get the cap in with the smaller sized spacer but it went.  I currently have just enough sag in the front with my spacer so if you can't get a 1" in, its probably better to cut it smaller.

When I did my fork seals a while back the dealer told me my stock fork oil was 5wt so I went "up" to 7 wt.  I find out from someone recently the error in what I did so I need to try and siphon out the 7 wt to replace with some 15wt.  I hope that will improve things even more.

I bought a Katana 750 rear shock from Fremont Cycle Salvage and I am super happy with it.  The bike sits higher, the rear feels better in turns/accelleration and for some reason, the seat feels more comfortable   .  My bike came with aftermarket springs so I can't really say what a difference it was over stock but I can say that it made a BIG difference replacing the old blown fork seals and actually having fork oil in the forks.

im running progressive fornts with stock weight oil and i bottom out.. i got a schedule 40 end cap too..

I am 160 lbs, i shouldnt bottom out that easily.. i dont know what's up.

Quote from: The_good_guyim running progressive fornts with stock weight oil and i bottom out.. i got a schedule 40 end cap too..

I am 160 lbs, i shouldnt bottom out that easily.. i dont know what's up.

Thats odd because I know I weigh 160-165 and I can't recall ever bottoming out.  I wonder if I have heavier spring rates?  My spacer is a hacked up PVC coupling (Home Depot for under a buck each - 1.5" long originally but cut) so its a thick walled tube that uses minimal volume in my fork tubes

im 250, was 289 when first started riding my GS, 10-15w fork oil is too light in my opinion, i run 20, i also run .75" spacer ,  even on endo's/stoppies, i dont bottom out very hard if i bottom at all. but you will feel the very texture of the road with 20w, i like the extra feedback. it doesnt pogo on me under hard braking,  and it doesnt rebound very hard either, but again, i dont know if thats just the oil or if its the cartridge emulators, i dont know much about them, but they are in there.

Anyone have an extra set of fork caps they would like to Donate for a project? i want to try to make preload adjusters, thisway you could start with .50 spacers and dial in what you want, But plz, only if you dont need them. or if there is a set that is rounded out but threds are in good order.

I weigh 230 and have Progressives with no spacer and the stock oil.  I have not bottomed them out since I installed them.

i might want to take her apart and see what's up. Do so sometime next week.

It is a lot easier to get the caps on if someone pushes down on the back end to take all the weight off the front of the bike while its on the centerstand. I have .75" spacers and was struggling to get the caps on when a friend pushed down on the back of the bike and it made it a ton easier.

I jacked my bike up so there was no weight on the front wheel and still had problems with a 3/4" spacer. I think I ended up putting a 1/2" socket extender in the square hole so I had something to hold onto.

With or without the front wheel on the ground...and a spacer in the fork legs...gettting the cap back on is a 2 person job...the second one dont have to be that strong...but they do need to turn the wrench 1/4 turn or so...one person pushes on the top with a small pipe on the wrench back side and they need to turn it at the right moment.
Bottoming out... You sude...put some zip ties in the fork legs...and see if they are stuffed into the seal after you experience bottoming....Believe me it will bottom out outside before the internals bottom out...and I have never seen it bottom out so far on the stock + spacer (1 inch) suspension or on my lindemann's on the 89.....the clack you hear on hitting a bump...is the headlight bucket whacking the steering head. To get rid of it (well first make sure it is the reason)...and put a nice little dent in its backside with a pipe to get the clearance you need...just 1/4 inch is plenty.
Cool.
Srinath.