Hi All first off I would like to say that I'm glad that I found this website when I was deciding which would be my "First Beginner Bike" .  Just bought a   Teal Green 95 GS5000E with 10,000 miles that comes with a SuperTrapp exhaust, and here are some of my questions:

*  How can I tell if the carburator is already re-jetted on my bike?  As I read through the previous post saying that you need to re-jet the carburator when you put a aftermarket exhaust.

* Is a superTrapp a good exhaust? I noticed most of the owners has Van's and Hines.

* can I paint the exhaust pipes with a black paint rated up to 1200 fahrenheit coz mine are rusty.

* any tip on shifting, how fast do I need to go to shift up to another gear?

1st gear -   ?? mph
2nd gear -  ?? mph
3rd gear -  ?? mph
4th gear -  ?? mph
and so on...

* any recommendation on chain lube?

* how would I know if  my oil is low and need some?

* any Bay Area owner here?

I'm a beginner rider who doesnt' know much about motorcycle so bear with me if some of my questions are plain like dummy


Thanks and looking forward to participating in this forum

congrats on the new bike!!!

About the shifting thing, you just need to get a feel for it. There is not set in stone rule like "you must shift here or you will explode" Besides the redline of course. Since I am rather new myself I dont know if i am 100% correct but i try to keep the RPM's between 5k-7k any more or less, i will shift up or down.

That being said if you need to accelerate faster, you tend to want to be in a lower gear, and that means higher RPM. Just make sure you dont drop down more than 1 gear if you do, because that may possibly bring you close to the red line.

Someone correct me if im wrong on the range to keep it in. Like i said i new myself! Congrats again my friend!!

I shift at 8.5-9k if i'm on an open road, if im just getting up to cruising speed I'll shift at 5k or so until I get into 6th.

Shifting: Rev the hell out of it.  The GS makes no power under 7,000RPM.  Keep it between that and the redline.  When just cruising around, I try to keep it about 5,000 RPM.  You never know when you might need to scoot out of harm's way.  Do not lug the engine.  It's harmful to the engine as is overrevving.  

Chain Lube:  I use Maxxima chain wax.  Make sure it says "wax", not lube.  The wax variety slings off much less.  Clean the chain with WD-40.  Take a 5 minute ride to warm and dry the chain.  Apply the chain wax as per instructions on the can.  Do this every 600 miles.

Oil level:  I sit on the seat and check the oil with the bike sitting level this way.  Unscrew the dipstick and wipe it off.  Stick the stick back in the hole but do not screw it in.  Remove and check the level.  

If you just bought it, change the oil.  Use a good quality oil.  DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE NUTS HOLDING THE FILTER COVER IN PLACE.  They will snap off if you do.  Just enough to smash the filter cover gasket is tight enough.  I use Castrol Syntec Blend 10W-40 and an OEM filter from my dealer.


Most important:  Take the MSF course ASAP if you haven't done so.  Buy good gear and wear it each and every time you leave your garage on the bike.

Welcome to the club.  The only dumb question is the unasked one.

Oh yea, forgot to say to take the MSF course. I thought i knew what i was doing before i took the course. Definatly not so now that i look back (all of 2 weeks  :lol: ). I find myself unconciously doing what they told me to do now, i can say i learned alot in 3 days, plus you have fun too!!!

FYI Finish the MSF course 2 weaks before buying the bike, thanks all.

Congrats and welcome to the fold.  Make sure you get good protective gear (snell rated helmet, leather gloves, sturdy boots, jacket, and pants).  As others have said, take the MSF course now if you haven't already (it gets you a 10% insurance discount and replaces the riding test for the DMV).  The SF course gets booked up well in advance, but Daly City and others are easy to get into on little notice.

Jets are labeled but you can't tell without taking the carb apart.  If you don't want to do that, put in some new plugs (gapped correctly) and check their color to see if you are running rich or lean.  For best results run tests at idle, partial throttle, and wide open (there are guides online for how to do this or check the archives for links).

If you're going to paint it, make sure you get all the rust off first, paint doesn't adhere to rust well.  Rust converter or bead blasting is probably the best option.  However, I wouldn't worry about anything cosmetic for the next 6 months or so.  Lots of people drop their bikes in the first 6 months, so not much use in worrying about looks.  Focus on building your skills and staying safe.

Shifting really depends on the situation, there isn't a "right" shift point for all circumstances, but I'd suggest using 3-7K as a good working range as a beginner, you don't need to have the most power or responsiveness.  You don't need to shift particularly fast, focus on awareness of your situation (including mirrors) and smooth inputs to the bike (especially throttle control).  Learn the clutch grab range, you'll need to have a good feel for it when starting from a standstill on the steep hills.

I use golden spectro chain lube, but there are lots of good options.  I hear good things about Honda chain wax often.  I didn't like Motorex (messy, adheres poorly).  The manual says check oil with the bike level and not on the centerstand, but I always check it on the centerstand.  The bike seems happy with oil in the middle of the dipstick range when on the centerstand.  There is a dipstick on the right hand side of the engine.  Remove and clean it, put it back just resting on the threads (not screwed in) and remove again to measure.  Fill until roughly the middle of the hashed range.  FWIW, my bike seems to shift smoother and rev easier after switching to Mobil 1 MX4T synthetic.

There are a dozen or so Bay Area riders around here (I'm in SF) and lots more gses in the area.  We're planning a get together ride to Lake Beryessa in the other forum, but I really wouldn't recommend it at this point (its a 2-400 mile ride from the city with lots of twisty roads).  PM me and I'm sure we can find some time to ride.  With a brand new bike I think short rides and skills building is the way to go, I took it easy at the start and think it helped a lot.  Panic stops and tight turn drills in a parking lot are both time well spent.

The bay area can be a pretty crazy place, start simple and build your confidence.  There are red light runners everywhere in San Francisco (especially Muni busses), so don't get hot on the gas.  Lane splitting is great but wait a while, too many things too look out for in tight places.  You're first time in the 80mph highway flow can also be a little daunting (took me a while to get used to the crosswinds on the bridges at speed - nothing like getting blown into the next lane on the bay bridge at 4am by a sudden gust of wind to wake you up).  With the rains coming make sure you dress warmly, I was surprised to learn that some of my initial jerkiness was shivering from the cold (! - long johns and a good sweater work wonders).

_Proficient Motorcycling_ by David Hough is one of the best books you'll find on motorcycle dynamics and riding tips, well worth reading.  _Twist of the Wrist Part II_, _Street Strategies_, and _Sport Riding Techniques_ are also good.

nice, I just got my bike today, its a 93 GS and its also my 1st bike
w/ 20K
I love her so far,

Welcome, and don't EVER worry about "Dummy" questions, it's better to ask than remain in the dark because you didn't ask. Gear shift, up has been covered, it's more with the revs than road speed. Downshifting can be a bit more tricky especialy when approaching an intersection or Hazard and you don't want (or can't) slow gradually as you approach. You use a technique we call bulk or block downshifting where you drop several gears as you break. Practice it somewhere safe (and dry) the last thing you want is to be going into a wet or slippery corner in the wrong gear. It's not difficult, as someone said you will get a feel for it. Ride ride ride, practice practice and don't forget Hi-Viz. Good luck with the bike.

Quote from: rjsjrCongrats and welcome to the fold.   There is a dipstick on the right hand side of the engine.  Remove and clean it, put it back just resting on the threads (not screwed in) and remove again to measure.  Fill until roughly the middle of the hashed range.  FWIW, my bike seems to shift smoother and rev easier after switching to Mobil 1 MX4T synthetic.

Uhh, just fill it until the level is on the top-side of the crosshatched area near de F mark on the dipstick. More oil is better for cooling the engine. Don't overfill though, that's also bad for the engine.

Check regularly, especially on highway trips it can burn oil.

Welcome new riders!
Congrats on the new (to you) gs's!

Supertrapp makes a fine exhaust but not one specifically for the GS. Not uncommon that part-gs doesnt have a big aftermarket support. Everyone has Vance&Hines because thats the only maker still making new full exhausts for the gs, except for Cobra which makes a slip on. Previous owner probably cobbled together the Supertrapp. You can check if it might have been rejetted by looking at underside of carbs toward back side and seeing if there are some brass plugs in place-they get taken out for rejettign so if they're still in no rejetting was done but if they're out (exposing the screws underneath) then likely to have been rejetted. Does it start easily cold? If so then likely rejetted too.

Welcome! I'm a former m/c mechanic in the San Jose Bay Area, you can pm me or post any probs here and I'll help when I can. I'm married and don't have alot of freetime, but I'll do my best.