Is it ok to get a used clutch??


Would it be better to get the clutch kit or just the plates?

Why would get a used clutch?  It's like buying somebody else's problem.  Affordability should never be the issue, 'cause if you can't afford it, it might not be safe (or last very long).

Most bikes just wear out the friction plates, the metal plates only need replacement if they warp.

I see this question a lot on motorcycle forums.  I never understand what's meant.  I put clutch parts in three categories.

Wear items: Friction plates - Buy new every time, like brake pads and fluid, and motor oil.  Used = crap.

Medium wear items: steel plates, springs - Plates should be within spec for thickness and warpage, springs should be in spec for length.  Don't have to replace every time.  Leave them in if they're in spec.  Buy new otherwise.  I suppose you could buy them used if you're uber-cheap and you check they're in good shape.  But don't.  Just buy them new.

Hard items: boss, basket - I have no problem with these items used, they "should" last forever, barring abuse.  Check used items for cracks and evidence of abuse (seriously scored, etc.)

Val,
chuck is on the money!!!!

friction plates are....35 bucks or so....I haven't bought a clutch in a while.

if the metals are warped replace
if blue....36-80 grit paper them or drop on concrete and scuff them up with your shoe....it works.  polishing them with emory cloth is retarded

if the basket is slightly worn....file the teeth marks flat
if heavy teath marks....try filing and look for a replacement

Thanks guys! I will just order the plates and inspect everything else when I'm in there.

which parts should I get?

http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/300_0027/clutch/clutch.cfm?man=su&groupid=3080&parent=3070

Part number 8 is the friction plate.

From the picture, it looks like you want 6 of them, but I don't remember because I never replaced the clutch on my GS.  Someone else can confirm, or you can check your Haynes manual which I hope you have.

Nope no manual
I'll be getting one from the GStwin link.

Val,
just buy a cheap AM clutch kit from dennis kirk or local bike shop

vesrah is ok
ebc also

   for a 91 GS500e

$60.99 EBC CK Series Clutch Discs
Dennis Kirk Part #: 381898
Manufacturer Part #: CK3333
No. of Discs: Set of 7
Type: Clutch Disc
Units: Set

I just replaced the clutch on my CBR, It's easy and the clutch friction plates cost about $70. I just measured the springs and steel plates and they were within spec so I scuffed the steel plates with some 80 grit and put them back in.

Took about 45 minutes but I was going really slowly (first time I ever changed a clutch on a bike) and I measured everything with a micrometer.

Keep your steel plates in order and put them back in the same way, sometimes a small ridge will wear on the outside of the disk and if you turn one arround it'll wear out the clutch faster.

If you put the bike on the sidestand you don't even need to drain the oil.

Quote from: ducati_nolan on June 14, 2007, 11:47:55 PM
I just replaced the clutch on my CBR, It's easy..

Took about 45 minutes...

Must not have replaced the gasket...

do I need a gasket?

Quote from: werase643 on June 14, 2007, 04:35:14 PM
just buy a cheap AM clutch kit from dennis kirk or local bike shop

If "cheap" is your operative word, OEM clutch disks are always cheaper.  I don't know why.

As for the gasket, it's possible to get by without changing the gasket, but it may not seal the second time around.  Replacing the gasket can be tricky if it's bonded on by kryptonian radiation, as some of them seem to be.  I had to use 4 or 5 applications of uber-toxic-corrosive gasket remover and a gasket grinding tool.  Ugh.

Quote from: Chuck on June 15, 2007, 06:29:25 AM

Quote from: werase643 on June 14, 2007, 04:35:14 PM
just buy a cheap AM clutch kit from dennis kirk or local bike shop

If "cheap" is your operative word, OEM clutch disks are always cheaper.  I don't know why.

As for the gasket, it's possible to get by without changing the gasket, but it may not seal the second time around.  Replacing the gasket can be tricky if it's bonded on by kryptonian radiation, as some of them seem to be.  I had to use 4 or 5 applications of uber-toxic-corrosive gasket remover and a gasket grinding tool.  Ugh.

That stuff is EVIL. I was mostly using chemical-resistant gloves, was vaguely aware that I got a little on my hands and one arm, but no symptoms, so I took my time cleaning it off.

For the next 18 hours or so, my hands were dry, red, chapped, and pretty much continually in pain... all over, not just the area where I thought it touched. After that, it was as though my body had recognized the stuff at some cellular level, and anyplace where even a drop touched my skin it burned like acid. Fun.

As for the gasket.. if it's not leaking, I guess you didn't need it. Since mine died without even having been fooled with, I don't have much faith in them, though. It was a huge chore to clean mine off, but I thought I'd better do the other side as well, since for all I knew it could be right on the verge.

FWIW, the gasket on the other side (stator side) on my bike was in noticeably better shape than the one on the clutch side- had shrunk less, and torn not at all. I'm guessing that side runs cooler.

Yeah, my clutch cover gasket just blew out at the track, and then I learned about the awful spray.  But it's better than not having it.  I was going to change the clutch plates while I was in there, but I got lazy and another gasket is like 8 bucks or something, so who cares.  Or maybe I'll make my own gasket next time.  My dad used to use cereal boxes.