Doesn't the GS have a 3/8" master?  Not very suited to dual caliper duty...really need to have at least 5/8"

Quote from: surfales on July 18, 2007, 11:28:59 PM
Can I modify my GS500F front brake reservoir to dual brake by just changing he fitting?

Yes, but I wouldn't recommend trying it.  The GS master isn't sufficient to apply appropriate pressure to a two disc system.   You can buy mid 90's Gixxer masters on ebay pretty cheap, though, and they will work.

I have everything (I think) for the swap except the master cylinder, line, and that fitting that joins the 2 caliper hoses.  ebay here I come, again.

Couple options for brake line:
run 1 line down to the right caliper then at that banjo bolt run another over to the left.
buy a line that's Y connected
Get an extended bolt  for the cylinder and run individual lines from there.

Check Ebay for an MC,  damn near anything can be made to work fairly easily as long as it's designed for a two disc system

Yeah, get a 5/8 GSXR m/c. Plenty on ebay.

Run 2 seperate lines to the calipers. Dual s/s lines are easy to get. Bridging from one caliper to the other is not a good idea, unless you are cutting costs in production. Heat from the first caliper can be transfered to the second causing it to fade.

Quote from: dgyver on July 19, 2007, 04:08:30 AM
Bridging from one caliper to the other is not a good idea, unless you are cutting costs in production. Heat from the first caliper can be transfered to the second causing it to fade.

Didn't ever think about that.  Thanks for pointing it out

Ebay is your friend, when I needed a new M/C I got one off a 98 Gixxer for just over $60 delivered.

If you really want to cut costs look for stock Harley Davidson masters (most are 5/8", 11/16", or 3/4"), SV masters, and Katana masters.  FZR's, older ZXR's, and CBR's and such are also good places to look.  Older bikes that came with dual discs are usually 5/8".  The 5/8" master on my CX is from an SV1k and I got it for about $15...the 3/4" master I had on my TL was from a 1200 Sportster and the owners just let those unpolished, stock bits go for dirt cheap (got it for $35 shipped).

Yep , the controls swop straight over with out any problem at all , im using the katana ignition as well , i might use the petrol cap also , im not to sure , i as i got the whole bike , i had a complete front end , so i didnt have to worry about looking for parts like that ,

See that post? some dude put  83' Kawa zx 750 forks in the stock Gs tripple , Dual breaks as easy as pie , clearly the wheel will never match the rear , and its very diff

As said, if matching wheels is so important, get CBR f1 forks and both wheels.  Ugly, but hey...they'll match (and the rear is 4.5" I think).

The bandit 4.5 inch wheel and my katana wheel are identical . so im not to bothered about any other swop

Cost more,  too.

For the Cbr or the bandit and Katana? . because i payed 25 pounds for the complete wheel , with caliper brackets , disc , the lot , and the kat wheel would be a Gs one , Cheap enough  .

Quote from: Jay_wolf on July 19, 2007, 12:36:17 PM
The bandit 4.5 inch wheel and my katana wheel are identical . so im not to bothered about any other swop

I gotta 4.5 Bandit 6oo rear wheel with swept spokes. haha

I filed and filed and filed...then I said screw it and broke out the dremmel tool to grid down the Kat stem to fit my GS.  Stacked two bearings, installed whatever I could to see what I'm missing or need to modify...it's going to be a lot of work...but at least it's fun.  Also, how do I remove the ignition switch?

I have one of the spacers made. I hope to have the other one finished tomorrow.

Quote from: surfales on July 21, 2007, 08:37:54 PM
...
Also, how do I remove the ignition switch?

The manual suggests using a punch to tap the security screws loose.
The best way I have found is to use an ez-out screw extractor. Not the twisted type but the tapered square ones.

I used a hand file , as i really didnt wanna mess that up ,slowly and just used the race bearing as a rough guide,  good luck dude , and i did want to no how to remove the Ignition lol Cheers Dygver

FYI, you guys gave me way too much credit when you explained how to remove the ign sw.  FYI for anyone who wants to know...the ign sw is installed with "break away" bolts.  That is, the head of the bolts shear off once a certain torque is reached, it's an anti-theft thing.  I didn't know this but figured it out and removed the switch by screwing the bolts out by taking a sharp punch to the washer looking head (punching it in the direction of removal).

Any suggestions where, how to mount the tach and speedo?  Look like I need to make some brackets.  How did you guys do it?

Quote from: surfales on July 26, 2007, 10:41:21 PM
Any suggestions where, how to mount the tach and speedo?  Look like I need to make some brackets.  How did you guys do it?

I got some aluminum sheet metal from my local home improvement store.I made a cardboard template of the top of my upper clamp and transfered it to the aluminum.Then i laid my GS gauge panel on it and traced out the gauge location.I drilled my mounting holes and cut my gauge holes before cutting it out of the sheet of aluminum.It's easier to hold while you drill and cut the holes.Then cut out the panel and bend it like the the GS panel.I used a sturdy door and jam as a sheet metal brake to make my bends.Hope this helps.I sold my gauge panel or I would post pics.