So I just went for my first ride in about a month. All was well, it started up fine and rode like a dream. I did about 20 miles of twisties and freeway, so nothing too major. I was wringing her out and giving her a workout, but not slaughtering it. Anyways, I get by my house and stop by the store and when I come back out, it won't start. The started switch was doing nothing. So I push started it and rode home. When I got here, I shut it off and again it wouldn't start. I have no idea what happened. And I am planning on putting it up for sale today. so I need to get this solved. Any ideas?

Dave 

From what you described it sounds like a battery not holding a charge.   Sounds like it had one last good hit to start it and that was it....I don't suspect the charging system because it ran after you bump started it.

Well there seems to be nothing when I hit the starter, as if it is disconnected somehow. But all the dash lights work fine. So I can't imagine that the battery is dead.

Another member had a similar problem http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=37611.msg422920#msg422920

Lights comming on if not battery, if they come on, it may still be battery, or somehting else.
I have had the contacts wear at the start button and not connect. Open it and press and you'd see air between the contacts. Solder up a dollop of lead in there and its good.
Cool.
Srinath.

clutch safety switch.

Or side stand switch (which is not an issue if you start in neutral, but I usually don't if I'm mid-ride.)

Oh yeah, neutral switch.  Easier to check, so make sure the light comes on.

Based on these posts, let me clarify that I had the bike in neutral, sidestand up...what else...that's all I suppose. But it was such that the neutral/sidestand switches shouldn't be issues. I'm just sayin.

Dave

Quote from: NiceGuysFinishLast on August 27, 2007, 02:33:59 AM
clutch safety switch.

Could still be the batt, even if the lights work.  Mine did that as well and replacing the battery fixed the problem.  NGFL has got the other probable culprit.  If you aren't holding the clutch lever while pushing the starter button, then the bike won't start.  It won't matter if the sidestand is up/down, or if you're in neutral.  No clutchy = no starty.  It's pretty easy to bypass, but you don't really need to unless the switch housing breaks like mine did.

John

Right, I forgot to mention that I am indeed holding the clutch in. I will try to check out the battery tomorrow.

Dave, we're just trying to eliminate the easy/likely stuff first.  It's not that we think you're an idiot.  I'm sure you're holding the clutch, but if your clutch switch died or became disconnected then your starter is disabled.  If your starter relay is not even clicking, then it must be one of the switches (starter, engine kill, clutch, sidestand, neutral) or the relay itself.

check the wire coming out the bottom of the clutch.  They come out pretty easy.  If they are out, then no start.

Quote from: Chuck on August 28, 2007, 03:18:44 AM
Dave, we're just trying to eliminate the easy/likely stuff first.  It's not that we think you're an idiot.  I'm sure you're holding the clutch, but if your clutch switch died or became disconnected then your starter is disabled.  If your starter relay is not even clicking, then it must be one of the switches (starter, engine kill, clutch, sidestand, neutral) or the relay itself.

Oh I know, I wasn't being a prick. I was just clarifying the things that came to mind as I read the replies. I haven't had a chance to check anything so far, but hopefully soon.

Dave

Hmmm. So I check the clutch switch and see that the wires are plugged in. Oh wait, one plug is plugged in, the other is just hanging there with the metal prong stuck into it. AKA, it is busted. So...I need a new one of those. Whatever those things are called, I am out of words here. It is the part screwed onto the handlebar with the 2 metal prongs that the wires plug into. The clutch switch? I guess. Is it gonna be a biatch getting one of these?

Dave

Quote from: My Name Is Dave on August 28, 2007, 07:45:32 PM
Hmmm. So I check the clutch switch and see that the wires are plugged in. Oh wait, one plug is plugged in, the other is just hanging there with the metal prong stuck into it. AKA, it is busted. So...I need a new one of those. Whatever those things are called, I am out of words here. It is the part screwed onto the handlebar with the 2 metal prongs that the wires plug into. The clutch switch? I guess. Is it gonna be a biatch getting one of these?

Dave

What year bike do you have?  If it is pre-fairing, then it's actually pretty easy to fix (assuming you do not want to keep the clutch switch functional).  Most of the wiring is housed in the headlight casing.  Take the headlight out of the casing and follow the two wires from the switch back into the casing.  They should be attached to other wires with splicers that can be pulled apart.  Pull each wire from the splicers, which will leave a male and female end attached to the bike (while the wires from the clutch switch will be disconnected from the bike).  Plug the two ends that are still attached to the bike together, and you have successfully bypassed the clutch safety switch.

With this done, you will not need to hold the clutch in to start the bike.  You'll just have to make sure that it is in neutral when you start it, or that you do hold the clutch to start it in gear.  Otherwise it can lurch and fall over on you.  If you don't like the idea of not having the switch, you can probably find a replacement at www.bikebandit.com, or some other OEM replacement website.

Good luck,

John

Quote from: My Name Is Dave on August 28, 2007, 07:45:32 PM
Hmmm. So I check the clutch switch and see that the wires are plugged in. Oh wait, one plug is plugged in, the other is just hanging there with the metal prong stuck into it. AKA, it is busted. So...I need a new one of those. Whatever those things are called, I am out of words here. It is the part screwed onto the handlebar with the 2 metal prongs that the wires plug into. The clutch switch? I guess. Is it gonna be a biatch getting one of these?

Dave

The difficulty of terminating two ends is right up there with the inconvenience of forcing your own heart to beat /and, or breathing.

Quote from: DrtRydr23 on August 28, 2007, 08:37:48 PM

Quote from: My Name Is Dave on August 28, 2007, 07:45:32 PM
Hmmm. So I check the clutch switch and see that the wires are plugged in. Oh wait, one plug is plugged in, the other is just hanging there with the metal prong stuck into it. AKA, it is busted. So...I need a new one of those. Whatever those things are called, I am out of words here. It is the part screwed onto the handlebar with the 2 metal prongs that the wires plug into. The clutch switch? I guess. Is it gonna be a biatch getting one of these?

Dave

What year bike do you have?  If it is pre-fairing, then it's actually pretty easy to fix (assuming you do not want to keep the clutch switch functional).  Most of the wiring is housed in the headlight casing.  Take the headlight out of the casing and follow the two wires from the switch back into the casing.  They should be attached to other wires with splicers that can be pulled apart.  Pull each wire from the splicers, which will leave a male and female end attached to the bike (while the wires from the clutch switch will be disconnected from the bike).  Plug the two ends that are still attached to the bike together, and you have successfully bypassed the clutch safety switch.

With this done, you will not need to hold the clutch in to start the bike.  You'll just have to make sure that it is in neutral when you start it, or that you do hold the clutch to start it in gear.  Otherwise it can lurch and fall over on you.  If you don't like the idea of not having the switch, you can probably find a replacement at www.bikebandit.com, or some other OEM replacement website.

Good luck,

John

Um, I have a 2005. So it's faired, thus making this a little more difficult, no?

Quote from: My Name Is Dave on August 29, 2007, 06:02:39 PM

Um, I have a 2005. So it's faired, thus making this a little more difficult, no?

Probably.  I've never worked on a faired model so I really can't say for sure.  My advice would be to follow the wires back and see if you can find where they are spliced at.  You might be able to do it without removing the plastics, but I really don't know.  Maybe some of the GSF owners can chime in on this one.

John

Quote from: DrtRydr23 on August 29, 2007, 07:41:54 PM

Quote from: My Name Is Dave on August 29, 2007, 06:02:39 PM

Um, I have a 2005. So it's faired, thus making this a little more difficult, no?

Probably.  I've never worked on a faired model so I really can't say for sure.  My advice would be to follow the wires back and see if you can find where they are spliced at.  You might be able to do it without removing the plastics, but I really don't know.  Maybe some of the GSF owners can chime in on this one.

John

That would be helpful to hear from anyone with an F-model who knows. Although the unit itself is $10, which I can prolly afford. Just a matter of having to wait. Unless the dealer can get one.

temp fix    so you can ride....
pull the wires off the switch and remove some insulation....
wrap the wires together or get a wire connector
elec tape them

try starting it....


replace when you get the part