Okay, so I've searched the forum and can't find the answers to my problem(s).

Back story: I installed a set of 89 clip-ons today. I used to have some cruiser style ones. Great, right? Well, now the bike idles at ~3000 rpm instead of the 1200-1500 that it used to. Also, the clutch is RIDICULOUSLY hard to pull in and has a completely different engagement point. WTF? It's so hard to pull in and disengage that my forearm (underside) actually hurts after a 5 miles ride. I'm pretty sure that I put the choke and clutch assembly back exactly like I found it, but I could be wrong.

What could be causing all of this? Can I adjust it or should I suck it up and get an easy pull over the winter when I have a job?

-Amanda

The clutch cable is likely kinked as it is several inches longer than the cable used for the '89 models.  Same goes for the throttle cable.  Try re-routing them so they aren't forced into tight bends.

Does the right grip have any freeplay before you feel the butterflies start to open, or the engine rev when you turn the bars lock-to-lock?  If so, adjusting the cable slack at the carburetor will help.  Suzuki suggests that the throttle have approximately 1/8" of freeplay as measured at the periphery of the grip.  I think that's just too much.  I have about 1/32", which is just loose enough to prevent the bike from revving as the bars are turned.

Also, if your clutch cable is old it can be hard to operate.  You should be able to operate the clutch with two fingers.  If lubricating and re-routing the cable doesn't help, replace the cable with a new '89 cable.  They're around $15 as I recall.

Oh, I forgot to mention that the bike idles fine when cold (it's 40 in RollaMO) but when warm it idles at 3000. Adjusting the idle air mix screw doesn't help. I'll check on what you mentioned in the morning. I'm cold.

100% sure its the clutch cable getting kinked out. I had this problem and you shouldnt ride it like that because its not fully engaging and your slipping it. Untangle it and install so its easier to pull in and that should be right

My advice, is to re-route the throttle and put some cable lube in there, when I went to 89' clip-ons I had the same problem, I adjusted the throttle cable and checked the slack(which in my case had no slack and was holding the throttle open a bit)

As far as the clutch goes, it may need to be re-routed as well. On the race bike I routed the clutch cable to come out the right side of the frame and the make a slow gentle turn to the left and then to the clutch lever. I also then did the opposite for the throttle, out on the left side then to the throttle tube on the handle bar.

Being a total and complete newb, I don't really know how to do some of this stuff. I have a Haynes manual, but it's not very in depth.

How do you check the slack in a cable? What does that even mean?
How do you lube a cable? Is there a special tool for it?
What is the correct routing for the throttle cable? When I bought the bike, it was clearly routed wrong (handlebars full lock right makes the revs shoot up) but I can't figure out what the correct routing is. Am I going to take the gas tank off for this?

So many questions:

How do you check the slack in a cable? What does that even mean?  I don't have a Haynes, but my Clymer describes how to adjust clutch and throttle cable slack in the Maintenance section.  The slack is the amount of movement the clutch lever/throttle tube have without actually operating the clutch/throttle.  Adjust the clutch so there is about 4 mm of free play using the manual adjuster on the lever assembly.  I think turning it towards the lever increases free play.  Adjust the throttle free play where the cable attaches to the carbs.  You'll need a 10 mm wrench for this.  Loosen the lock nut and move the threaded tube on the end of the cable up (I think) to increase free play.
How do you lube a cable? Is there a special tool for it?  Use this http://store.uncommonmotorcycles.com/cableluber.html and some cable/graphite/silicone lube (not WD 40).  Unhook them from the handlebar and watch for lube to run out the other side (accept for the clutch cable, unless you unhook it from the trans).  You can find the cable lube tool at some bike shops for cheaper.
What is the correct routing for the throttle cable? When I bought the bike, it was clearly routed wrong (handlebars full lock right makes the revs shoot up) but I can't figure out what the correct routing is. Am I going to take the gas tank off for this?  My throttle cable goes between the headlight mounting brackets, through the triangular opening near the steering head and down to the carbs.  Clutch is the same but on the left side and down to the left side of engine/trans.  You might have to play around with the routing to get it right.  Yes, you'll need to take the tank off for most of this.

I put clubman bars on mine recently and had some issues with the clutch cable.I've got it so it's not binding but waiting for an 89 cable.  I'd bet that's your problem. 

Quote from: RobTheTyrant on October 25, 2007, 01:34:05 PM
I put clubman bars on mine recently and had some issues with the clutch cable.I've got it so it's not binding but waiting for an 89 cable.  I'd bet that's your problem. 

I used to have clubmans installed on my bike and never had a problem.  I just routed the cable a little differently and it worked fine.

Hmm I put woodraft clip-ons under the triple on my 04 and never has a problem, I also never routed the cables either .

with the throttle and idle problem check the little nut under the throttle assembly that holds the cable to the assembly, check that it is tight and not moving around I had the same problem throttle wise when I put my clip-ons on tightened the nut no more problem, the clutch cable will just need a bit of adjustment and play around to get right

Wow, thank you guys so much for all your help, even on the simple topics. Now I just have to decide if I want to play with it that much to ride it for one more time. It's about 50 out right now, and it's not going to get much warmer. I'm putting it in my basement next week for storage, so I might just do it over the winter.