I took the carb assembly off my 89 and just cleaned the outside.  Then I followed the Clymer manual instructions for checking the parts inside and reassembled following the directions exactly.  I reinstalled it on the engine, put the air box back, ran the hoses..... and now it won't start.

I know I'm getting fuel into the float bowls becuase when I open the drain screw I get fuel.  I know I'm getting spark as I checked the plugs.

Why won't it start?  What did I do wrong?

I should also note that this is a stock bike with no mods. 

I am able to see fuel move through the filter as the bike turns over. 

Well... To start,

Did you check that the choke is working properly now that re-assembled? How about the idle screw? Is it adjusted the same? Did you get it seated back on the intake boots properly? There a a few things to look at... Obviously its something simple as it ran before right?

... We can get it narrowed down and running in no time 

hey, thanks for your help.

the choke cable is installed back in the same way it was and appears to work fine.

Idle screw is....not sure.  I've tried adjusting it either way and it hasn't started in either position.  Is there a "starting point" I should put it at?

It is seated on the block and the clamps are screwed tight.

Is it turning over and just not starting, or is there no sound at all?  Does it sputter and then die?

You didn't Unplug the Wires to the Coils and get them Crossed did you? 

Quote from: Jughead on November 15, 2007, 10:43:53 PM
You didn't Unplug the Wires to the Coils and get them Crossed did you? 

on the 89, thats impossible.  the wires for oen side are long enough to reach that coil, and thats all they'll do, then the other side's wires will reach it. but you cant cross them.

that being said, are you sure you didnt leave any parts out of the carbs?   I spent literally 36 hours straight on mine the first week I had the bike fiddling with the carbs because I didnt know I left two important little parts that hold the needles in the slide valves out.   trust me, it may not seem like a lot, but those parts DO make a difference.

Quote from: rnicholas on November 15, 2007, 09:15:46 PM
...Idle screw is....not sure.  I've tried adjusting it either way and it hasn't started in either position.  Is there a "starting point" I should put it at?...

Turn them all the way in (gently!!!) until they just bottom, and then back them out 2 full turns.

If you've been getting some fuel into the cylinders the plugs may be wet and fouled. Pull them out and check them, clean if necessary. Check the gap too.

thanks for the help.  I'll try these ideas tonight.

I didn't unplug any coil wires.  I've already done the electrical and it started and ran fine prior to removing the carbs.

no parts were left out of the carb.  the only thing other I did than inspect the parts was remove a drain screw and clean it with a wire brush becuase it wouldn't go in far enough to seal.  It works great now and there is no leakage.  So go me, I fixed one thing and messed up all of it.

The bike turns over and acts like it wants to start.  No sputter, no start.  not siezed. 

Checked the plugs and there was no indication of fouling, but that was only after 5 or so minutes of trying to start.  I'll check them again for fouling and gap.

Okay so here is a dumb question.  Rich you said to turn "them" in all the way.  Isn't there only 1 idle screw?  Am I missing something?  I'm calling the idle screw the long screw that sticks straight down and is adjusted to reach 1200 idle.  Is there another screw I should be turning in and then out 2 full turns?

Quote from: rnicholas on November 16, 2007, 06:32:00 AM
thanks for the help.  I'll try these ideas tonight.

I didn't unplug any coil wires.  I've already done the electrical and it started and ran fine prior to removing the carbs.

no parts were left out of the carb.  the only thing other I did than inspect the parts was remove a drain screw and clean it with a wire brush becuase it wouldn't go in far enough to seal.  It works great now and there is no leakage.  So go me, I fixed one thing and messed up all of it.

The bike turns over and acts like it wants to start.  No sputter, no start.  not siezed. 

Checked the plugs and there was no indication of fouling, but that was only after 5 or so minutes of trying to start.  I'll check them again for fouling and gap.

Okay so here is a dumb question.  Rich you said to turn "them" in all the way.  Isn't there only 1 idle screw?  Am I missing something?  I'm calling the idle screw the long screw that sticks straight down and is adjusted to reach 1200 idle.  Is there another screw I should be turning in and then out 2 full turns?

Yeah, each carb has a low-speed mixture screw, I thought that's what you were referring to. My bad.  If no one's messed with them before they'll be hidden under a plug. If you didn't touch them they're not the cause of your problem.

okay cool.  no ones messed with them. 
I think maybe I'll just kick the damn thing tonight.  Maybe that will help.

Kick it, and swear at it a few times. That usually fixes the problem!     Hope you can get her going again!

I have nothing to say. Just writing cause I want to be "notified" of new replies.

but... wait...  hmmm.... I got something:  try turning the idle screw IN couple of turns (1 or 2) and try starting the bike again.
It may work.
Oh and MAKE SURE your battery isn't dead after so many tries of starting. Use jump starter if you have one. At least you'll be sure it's not the battery which is causing problems.
cheers

Well it sounds like your getting fuel as you can see it going through the filter and your getting spark. Are you getting air?

I would be tempted to try a shot or two of Easy-start into the carbs and see if it brings things back to life but if you have fuel and sparks the problem has to be related to something you have/havent done to the carbs.....I would be tempted to pull them off, dismantle them and go through the cleaning and assembly process again. This may sound obvious but what ever the problem is its common to both carbs or its been duplicated in the second carb`.

It may be that you don't have enough fuel in the carb float bowls. Once they have been completely drained, you will need to turn the frame-mounted fuel petcock to "prime" for a few minutes to allow them time to refill completely.

Maybe you can try that out?

Okay.  I pulled the carbs back off, rechecked everything and it is correct.  I have put new plugs in.  I have double checked that the idle adjustment screw is in far enough.  I've tried starting it with the throttle wide open, choke on and off and at 50%. 

I cannot get gas to the plugs.  I can't get them wet even if I try normal things that would flood it.

AAAAAAHHHHHHHHGGGGGG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  I can't figure it out.  It's like there is no vacuum?  All hoses are connected properly. 

Float bowls are full.  I have no left over parts, suprisingly.  What the crap am I doing wrong?

one thing I notice is that when I pull the throttle cable, the slides do not move?  Shouldn't the slides move up?

As I understand it, the butterfly valves open when the throttle cable is pulled. The slides move up automatically in proportion to air flow through the carburetor.

WE HAVE LIFT OFF!!!!!!  Bike started.  Man I'm sexy.

Okay.  Thank you for all of your help guys!  Turns out that once reassembled the last time, I did not let the float bowls fill enough before trying to start.

Now, last thing.  The exhuast was blue tinted?  How does one fix that?

congrats!

Blue tinted exhaust gases means you are burning oil. I'd ride the bike awhile and see if it clears up.