I have a '96 gs500.  Previous owner drilled holes into the end of the pipe.  Should there be any holes in the stock pipe....I'm thinking about plugging them. 

how big and how many? this is called a "muffleroctomy" which is a cheap way to get sound out of a stock set up. If the muffler is still in one piece I wouldnt worry too much about it.

Only the big on in the back and a pinhole on the bottom to drain water.

  -Anti 

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=38596.0

here is a link I posted a couple of weeks ago.  It's a picture of my pipe.  I'd like do a mufflerectomy-revision and get rid of some of these holes.  I'd like make the bike quieter.

Yep. That' not at all stock. None of the holes surrounding the center pipe are stock.

Solutions (beside replacing the entire muffler):

• Fabricate a circular plate to cover the drilled holes & attach with sheet metal screws from the open end - use some fiberglass between the new plate and the holes to help seal the space
• Try a high temperature epoxy putty - likely to come out though

If you have access to tools and material, I think the first option is the best.

Your pipe doesn't look the same as my stock 90 pipes. 

What - you didn't like [my answer in your original thread]?

(It's OK ... you don't have to. )

Thanks you guys for the help (yes, you too Kerry! )  You've provided some good advice.  I'll probably go with cutting a piece of sheet metal and using JB Weld to put it in place.  I'm new at all this, but learning a ton. A good friend of mine helps me with the gs too.  Thank the Man above for good websites and good friends!
Annette

For reference, here's a picture of the end of the stock pipe on my '92.

Sweet!  Thanks for the picture.  It really helps. 

Wow...after looking at that picture of the stock muffler I'd say mines been messed with as well.

Look at this pic.


Yeah I don't have any metal between the inner pipe and the outer pipe. Is this bad?

With that part of my muffler cut out is that just making it louder...does it effect anything else?

it might make it run leaner- not 100% sure tho

Total noob...I've seen leaner and richer talked about alot. I don't understand what this means?

Quote from: Prafeston on November 20, 2007, 12:00:52 AM
Total noob...I've seen leaner and richer talked about alot. I don't understand what this means?

richer or leaner as in the engine is receiving too much (rich) or too little (lean) gas. 

Wow, this must be going around, I just had it pointed out that my ride has also had a "mufflerectomy", and we just thought it had lost a few screws, since we ride dual sports with ugly spark arrestors sticking out, and not much else showing. "Oh, yeah, it's lost a couple brass hex screws, okay..." and onward we crawled over the bike in the owner's driveway.   

We were more concerned with the "stumble", the lack of travel in the front forks, the non stock size rear tire, the worn out front tire, and oil leaking from the engine gaskets. And that it had been "warmed up" before we got there.    And that someone painted the calipers blue... But we really liked the little headlight cowl with windscreen...

Mine came with a size too big tire on the back and a oil leaking engine too. Exciting. I plan on getting new gaskets all around this winter. Hope that fixes the leaks.

How much clearance do you have on the back tire on the right side??? I have like 1/8 inch!     It's a 140/70/17H.

how much clearance do you need.....?

last time i checked.....not touching/rubbing is enough

i have taken a razor blade to a tire to get it to stop rubbing

I think I've got a 150/60/17. It also appears that the PO cut at the chain gaurd to insure clearence.

Quote from: Teek on November 21, 2007, 02:48:28 AM
How much clearance do you have on the back tire on the right side??? I have like 1/8 inch!     It's a 140/70/17H.

Quote from: werase643 on November 21, 2007, 07:30:34 AM
how much clearance do you need.....?

last time i checked.....not touching/rubbing is enough

i have taken a razor blade to a tire to get it to stop rubbing

Quote from: Prafeston on November 21, 2007, 07:36:26 AM
I think I've got a 150/60/17. It also appears that the PO cut at the chain gaurd to insure clearence.

The 140/70 BT45 tire is 5.7" = approx 144 mm wide on a 4" wheel and the 150/70V BT45 is only 5.8" wide = approx 147 mm on a 4.0" wheel, only a 3mm difference rather than the specified 10 mm difference.  The actual dimensions vary from tire to tire and also remember when a tire is mounted on a rim that is 1/2" narrower than the preferred rim for that tire it will be approx .2" = 5mm narrower. 

I ran a 150/70 Lasertec followed by a 150/70 RoadAttack on my 3.5 rim both of which are said to be 149 mm wide on a 4.0 rim  and the Lasertec had just enough clearance and the RoadAttack touched the brake rod.  I ran the RoadAttack for about 1000 miles and then pulled the torque rod and bent it for clearance giving it about the same clearance as the chain guard has.  Just checked clearance with my present 140/70 Roadrider and with over 3/8" on both sides it is enough for any 150 tire I've seen including the 156 mm wide Avon Storm and the new 6.1" wide BT021 dual compound sport touring radial.  It's really easy to bend that brake rod a bit, I just hit mine with a BFH right on the wear mark and it flattened a bit and bent a bit in the right direction.   

Looks to me like it isn't necessary to alter the chain guard for any current 150 tire I've seen mounted on a 3.5 rim and also it shouldn't matter much if the tire just touches the brake rod.  At speed the tire throws out centrifugally and becomes bigger in dia and narrower in width and it approaches the brake rod in that condition unless you are going 100 mph in reverse.