I bought my 04 GS w/ about 9k miles on it, I now have over 10k on the bike... as far as I know it is on the original chain.  The chain eventually became loose enough that it could pretty much contact the maintenance stand.  I tightened the chain up last weekend until it was within the .8 to 1.2" of slack as specified, this put me to the last couple of notches from the end of the adjustment range.  As of today the chain is quite slack again... almost as much as it was originally.  The chain also has a decent amount of rust on it (I have lubed it a couple of times since I bought the bike, but who knows if/how often the PO lubed it). 
So obviously it is probably time for a new chain, but is there anything else that could be causing it to go slack that quickly after adjusting?  The sprockets look fine, but I don't want to ruin a new chain because I overlooked something. 

First, are you sure the wheel hasn't moved forward since last weekend?  (Did you torque the axle down tightly enough?)

Second (and this is what I neglected to do myself recently on OPTheory's bike) you will want to walk the bike forward a foot or two at a time and check the amount of slackness on several portions of the chain.  The slackness can vary from one portion of the chain to the next because of differences in wear.  The portion you checked most recently might be just as tight or loose as it was last weekend....

Third, if yours is an O-ring chain, check for missing O-rings.

I'd say it's time to replace the chain IF one or more of the following is true:
   * There are wide variances in slackness as you go around the chain.
   * ANY O-rings are missing.
   * The chain seems to be corroded/pitted/yucky even after you clean it.
   * There are links that "kink" up (don't hang in line with the rest of them) after they clear the front sprocket.

hi man yes i was just the same as you never oil the chan just keep making it tighter but now i have a new chain on i use a blue chain lube and when it gets  blk i clean and relub the chain it has help me out alot try sum
they cum in all colors but mk sure that u get the tacky one

Quote from: Kerry on December 07, 2007, 11:17:53 AM
First, are you sure the wheel hasn't moved forward since last weekend?  (Did you torque the axle down tightly enough?)

Second (and this is what I neglected to do myself recently on OPTheory's bike) you will want to walk the bike forward a foot or two at a time and check the amount of slackness on several portions of the chain.  The slackness can vary from one portion of the chain to the next because of differences in wear.  The portion you checked most recently might be just as tight or loose as it was last weekend....

Third, if yours is an O-ring chain, check for missing O-rings.

I'd say it's time to replace the chain IF one or more of the following is true:
   * There are wide variances in slackness as you go around the chain.
   * ANY O-rings are missing.
   * The chain seems to be corroded/pitted/yucky even after you clean it.
   * There are links that "kink" up (don't hang in line with the rest of them) after they clear the front sprocket.

I torqued the axle down tightly and the adjustment indicators are still at the same mark, so I'm pretty sure the wheel hasn't moved.  I didn't move the bike forward when adjusting the chain, however I did rotate the wheel/chain to check slack at several points.  The odd thing is that the chain seemed to stay tight for a couple of days and slacken up rather quickly over the next few days.  I will give the chain a closer look after work or tomorrow and check for the things you mentioned.  I also need to measure the distance between links and see if the chain is stretched. 
Thanks for the advice 

Quote from: mikesgs500 on December 07, 2007, 12:20:18 PMI didn't move the bike forward when adjusting the chain, however I did rotate the wheel/chain to check slack at several points.

That should be fine.  This helps me realize why (possibly) I didn't do it this time around: OPTheory's bike doesn't have a centerstand. 

Another sign that the chain is in need of replacement is the slack will require more frequent adjustment as the wear accelerates.  When you're adjusting your chain after every 250 mile ride it's time for a new one.   

I tightened the chain again today and will make note of how quickly it slackens up this week.  I know there have been many posts about what chain to get.  I primarily use my bike for commuting on the interstate, w/ a little bit of city driving and windy backroads thrown into the mix on weekends... this isn't a track bike.  What chain would be good quality without being overkill for my use?  I also took some pictures of my sprockets, do they look like they need replacing based on these pics?












[KJB: Added space between the pics.]

Your rear sprocket looks A-OK to me.  Your front sprocket has some obvious wear, but it could still take you several more thousand miles down the road without a problem.  Check out these diagrams from Clymer and Haynes regarding indications of sprocket wear:

Clymer



Haynes


Having said all of that, you might want to consider changing the front sprocket when you put on a new chain.  They say it helps to keep from wearing the new chain down prematurely.  As far as the rear sprocket, neither gsJack nor I have ever replaced a rear sprocket on our GSs.  (I bought one long ago, but it's still on the shelf.  Interested?  )

Meanwhile, you might also want to give your chain a good cleaning so you can get a better idea of the shape it's in (suspending judgement based on the sudden "stretching" for the moment).  The telltale color of RUST shows up in several of your photos, even on the chain.  Hmmmm.  Not sure what that means....

What the heck ... just for kicks, here is an old pair of pictures that show the same chain before and after cleaning.  In the BEFORE picture you can't hardly tell that it IS an O-ring chain, but the O-rings jump out at you in the AFTER picture.

   

Was the above chain cleaned while still on the bike, or was it removed and soaked?  If I go to the trouble of actually removing the chain I figure I might as well just put a new chain on and be done with it considering this chain has over 10k on it any way.  I have read about a number of people using a replacement chain with a clip type master link, of course my Haynes manual says to NEVER use a clip type link... is this really that bad of an idea or are they just covering their butt "in case"?  As for the rust on the chain, I can only assume that the P.O. left the bike out in the rain and neglected to lube the chain very often... I guess that's just another reason to go ahead and replace the chain.

I have never removed my chain to clean it.  If it were easier to remove, I would definitely be a "soaker". 

Once or twice I have used the WD40 "trick" mentioned on the main gstwin.com page, but usually I just:

  * Put the bike on the centerstand, shift into neutral
  * Lay down a line of paper towels (or something similar) directly under the chain
  * Break out an oil drain pan, a container of kerosene, and a discarded toothbrush
  * Pour about 1/2 a cup of kerosene into the pan and hold the pan under the chain
  * Dip the toothbrush into the kerosene, and scrub away at the handiest part of the
     chain
  * Spin the rear wheel to the expose the next yucky section of chain, and repeat

You'll find that even a "cleaned" section of chain will dribble dark kerosene down the rear sprocket ... so just continue as long as you can stand it.  I know that there are fancier and faster methods and tools for cleaning the chain, but I find the ol' toothbrush method to be nice and relaxing.

As for the clip-style master link, consider two things:
  1) My Dad rode MANY thousands of miles before I ever got a bike, and every one
      of them (until he got his Yamaha 750 shaft drive in 1976) was on a chain with
      a clip-style master link.
  2) Why would the chain manufacturers include a clip-style master link in the box
      with their new chains?

I'm on my 3rd chain on the GS, and the clip-style links have worked just fine for the last 25,000 miles (on chains 2 and 3).  Just be sure you install the clip in the right direction, like it shows in the instructions....

I have an O-ring chain and its not difficult to take out, then i just put it in a container of kerosene overnight submerged, come back in the morning and take a toothbrush to it, then run it through the kerosene flexing it to get it to clean every link. Then i dry it off put it back on the bike and and lube it.

Through the winter theres so much crap on the road from salt and stuff i just tend to keep regularly oiling my chain, the bike usually gets covered in crap, but when the weather gets better i soak the chain and scrub it and work hard and you really can get it looking like it just came out of the packet again.

This is an excellent thread, good pictures, diagrams, etc.

All it needs are links to chains/cogs and gearing guides, then...


Sticky ?

I ordered a D.I.D. 520VM chain, front sprocket, air filter, and some various nuts, bolts and clips from crotchrocket.com.  Hopefully the bike will be happy for a while 

Awesome!

Now, to anticipate your next question, check out the old [Cant figure out how to remove old chain. HElP?] thread.

I finally received my parts from crotchrocket.com a couple of days ago.  It turns out the chain is an endless chain so I didn't need the link after all.  It will be more labor installing the chain but I won't have to wonder rather the link will fail or not (although I know it likely wouldn't).  Now I just need to find the time to install it 

You'd have to get the swingarm off and make sure you dont lose the shims in there ...
Cool.
Srinath.

Quote from: Kerry on December 07, 2007, 12:34:53 PM

Quote from: mikesgs500 on December 07, 2007, 12:20:18 PMI didn't move the bike forward when adjusting the chain, however I did rotate the wheel/chain to check slack at several points.

That should be fine.  This helps me realize why (possibly) I didn't do it this time around: OPTheory's bike doesn't have a centerstand. 

Since the gs is so light (like most motorscooters) in the rear, it's easy. Stand over the bike, and pull straight UP on one of the spokes of the rear wheel. As you lift it lightens the rear a little more, and makes turning the wheel a breeze. Not to mention you can watch the chain as you do it for the next section in need of cleaning or lubrication.