Can anyone give me a little advise on removing my stator cover as it won't come off and the manual says don't pry it with a screwdriver. Also I need to pull the stator wires past the fuel tap but it won't fit with the block connector attached. How do I remove the block connector or is there anouther way round this problem? 

did you try tapping it with a rubber mallet?

No I missed that part in my manual. I will buy one tomorrow. I read elsewhere that it is ok to gently use a screwdriver if it's being really stubborn. Would it be a good idea to buy a new o-ring or gasket, you know the thingy that seals all the oil in.

Oh yer and one more thing, I lost quite allot of oil on my first attempt as it wouldn’t stop. How much oil spills out on average?

Sorry for all the annoying newbie questions   

QuoteI read elsewhere that it is ok to gently use a screwdriver if it's being really stubborn.

You'll probably be OK as long as you are really gentle. I'd only do this as a last resort though.

QuoteWould it be a good idea to buy a new o-ring or gasket, you know the thingy that seals all the oil in.

It's never a bad idea to replace gaskets. Especially if you start getting a screwdriver in there. Under the circumstances, I'd replace it.

QuoteHow much oil spills out on average?

The stator sits in engine oil - http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=19814.msg182686#msg182686 and
If you don't drain the oil first, you will leak a lot of engine oil (unless you lean it to the right, per dgyver http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=33261.0)

Maybe I missed it, but why are you removing the cover anyways?

Never taken mine out...but my tip is DONT lever on the copper-coils or the laminations, they are fragile and easily damaged. The fixing screws are loctited in from the factory so expect them to be tight.

Because the stator is outputting at 63vac when it should be outputting 75vac.

I'm not going to replace the stator until I can get the resistance test to work as my multimeter keeps on reading 1 on 200ohms setting. So I’m thinking there might be something wrong with the multimeter.

I've also checked the r/r which I recently bought new. The reason this went I understand is probably because the stator blew taking the r/r with it.

Anyway like I was saying I want to inspect the stator output wire and coils for damage.     

Quote from: vbad_ben on December 17, 2007, 07:17:54 PM
the stator is outputting at 63vac when it should be outputting 75vac.

So is mine, remember? 63 volts. 

Quote from: vbad_ben on December 17, 2007, 07:17:54 PMI'm not going to replace the stator until I can get the resistance test to work as my multimeter keeps on reading 1 on 200ohms setting. So I'm thinking there might be something wrong with the multimeter.

Hmmm.  Are you getting a 1 as in "1.0 ohms" or as in "the value is too high to show in this range"?  I'm asking because a value of 1 ohm is perfect if you're taking the first reading described in Test Phase B of THIS FLOWCHART.  And a value of "overload" would be perfect if you're taking the second reading for Test Phase B.

Quote from: vbad_ben on December 17, 2007, 07:17:54 PMI've also checked the r/r which I recently bought new.

Cool.  You may have said this in a different thread, but were you able to do the "diode tests" with your meter?  (Test Phase C of the flow chart.)  That was the only reliable way that I have found to test the regulator/rectifier ... without a "Suzuki Pocket Tester" that is.  (Which I don't have.  )

Quote from: vbad_ben on December 17, 2007, 07:17:54 PMAnyway like I was saying I want to inspect the stator output wire and coils for damage.

Can't argue with that!  Except, the potential exists to DO damage to those components by just trying to get the cover off to inspect them.  But if you're comfortable with your electrical test results, keep on keepin' on! 

There is like 3 bolts behind the sproket cover. You gotta take the sproket cover off and those bolts out.
Cool.
Srinath.

Oh right I only removed the bolts from the stator cover, thanx. I will let you know how it goes

You didn't pry it already did ya ...
If you did my friend, you'll need a new one.
Cool.
Srinath.

only a little ooops 

on a side note, Im leaking oil from behind the timing plate... Its only slight, so i havnt pulled the plate to see which seal is leaking, but any of you have this as a common leak?   

This if its comming from inside the timing cover = either leak from crank or leak from pressure sensor. Both of those are in pressure areas. I will fix either. The pressure sensor fix may be as simple as taking off, cleaning and using silicone and re seating. Remember its tapered, do not crank it down. It will split open the case.
Crank end seal - Used GS500's sell for $1000 and up. I recomend one of those.
Cool.
Srinath.

The stator arrived in the post today but unfortunately it came with what I think are bullet connectors and my gs500k3 uses a block connector. Is there any way of connecting the r/r and stator with the bullet connectors or just attaching them directly with insulation tape? 

Quote from: vbad_ben on December 21, 2007, 05:38:39 AM
The stator arrived in the post today but unfortunately it came with what I think are bullet connectors and my gs500k3 uses a block connector. Is there any way of connecting the r/r and stator with the bullet connectors or just attaching them directly with insulation tape? 

You can cut and solder your plug to the replacement stator. Do not twist and use tape, you will not get a good enough connection. All the wires are the same.

Before you go cutting things have a close look at the connecter pins. Some have a springy tang on them that allows you to push the connecter into the block and then it flicks out and locks the connecter into place in the block. The old ones remove from the by bending the tag in with a thin screwdriver and pulling the cable out from the back........have a close look. Remember the same generator is used on several different bikes and they in turn will have different types of block but the pins might be the same. Make sure you thread the cable through any grommits that might be fitted before you do make any joints 

Turns out the stator generator I bought from electrex only fits the older gs500 and not the k3 model. 60pounds down the drain, ouch. I give up I'm sending the stator off to be rewoud. 

I've tried to keep my mouth shut, but now that you're about to head down another fork in the road.... 

Just wondering if you read my most recent post in this thread (on the 17th).  If so, I'd like your feedback on it.  So far, the only "concrete" reason you've stated for repairing/replacing the stator is that it's putting out "only" 63 VAC.  In my mind, that's not a good enough reason.  Is there any more evidence that the stator is bad?

i cant remember what the spec is on those, BUT it doesnt seem to be TOO bad

Quote from: yamahonkawazuki on December 22, 2007, 01:19:25 AM
i cant remember what the spec is on those, BUT it doesnt seem to be TOO bad

As vbad_ben has mentioned, the spec from the manual is 75VAC.  But the ElectroSport folks mention either 50VAC or 60VAC as being the minimum acceptable value -- depending on which of their troubleshooting pages you happen across.  My bike is running fine with a stator output of 63VAC.

Alternator output voltage is one of those values that it would be nice to measure and record while one's bike is working (which I never did  ) so that if/when it starts acting up you have a baseline to compare with.