hey i'm new, but i been lookin on the forums for awhile. I just got an 05 gs 500 about 2 months ago. i bought it from a guy who put 2 miles on it because he fell off and never rode it again. so it sat, brand new with 2 miles on it for 2 years on top of a parking garage. when i first got it it had issues just idling, as it would idle for a little while then turn off. so i put in some sea foam which seemed to fix the problem, and it ran smooth for about a month. Then on a ride one night it broke down in the middle of no where, the rpms just slowly dropped with the throttle fully pulled. so i'd have to pull over and prime it, then drive it till it'd stop again. i cleaned out the gas tank and filter, checked the valves, and pulled out the carburetor and checked one of the fuel reservoirs, but everything was clean and didn't see any apparent problem. when i put it back together it ran great... for about 2 weeks, not on the way home from work the same kinda thing happened, rpms would die, or if i'd stop it'd just stall out immediately. Except now i can't even prime it and get it to start. So i did the same procedure as last time cept i took apart the petcock too which was also clean and still it won't start. One note though, the bike was on PRI on my way home from work, which i know is def not a good thing, but is that bad enough to cause this?? Anyway any ideas or suggestions are GREATLY appreciated as i'm not very mechanically educated or inclined, but really don't want to have to take it to a shop. THANKS!

how do your plugs look like?? did you ckeck them?

Hmmmm ... an interesting case.

The part about it "bogging until it stops" sounds for all the world like the bike is simply out of fuel.  Especially when setting the fuel selector to PRIme gets it running again.  That doesn't sound electrical, unless you sit long enough for things to cool down (which could conceivably mask a "connection or component goes bad when it gets hot" problem).

Since I don't know how much you know, please don't be offended if I ask questions about your fuel level.  In my experience (like, the first day I got my GS) it can LOOK like there's "plenty of gas" in the tank when there's really only enough to run the bike in the PRIme position.  If you're anywhere close to your last gallon, you need to be ready to switch to REServe when the bike starts bogging down.

Your '05 is different from my '99 in that the PRIme position on the fuel selector switch is in between the ON and the REServe positions.  That's an advantage, because it's good practice to switch to PRIme momentarily before continuing on to the REServe position.  (On pre-'01 bikes you would have to go past REServe to PRIme, and then back again.)

To answer your implied question about running the bike in the PRIme position ... the only "bad" thing about it is that if you run out of fuel in the PRIme position, you are truly OUT.  (Well, you can sometimes lean the bike to the left and drain a little more fuel from the tank, but you won't get very far that way.)  Using PRIme will not harm the engine.  The ideal scenario is:

    * Set the switch to ON when you fill up

    * Switch to REServe (via the PRIme position) when the bike starts
       to "bog".  Start looking for a gas station....

    * Switch to PRIme if the bike starts to "bog" in the REServe position.

    * If the bike bogs and stops in PRIme, use the "lean to the left" trick to
       save a few miles' wear-and-tear on the soles of your riding boots.


If you feel that you truly have plenty of fuel, we'll need to come up with a step-by-step process of elimination to figure out what else the problem could be.  One other fuel-related possibility (besides a faulty fuel selector switch) is a "buckle" or an upward-pointing arc in the line between the switch and the carbs.  There was an OLD thread (not sure if I could even find it now) where someone installed clear fuel line and was somehow able to see bubbles in the line when his bike started to "bog".  He was going to try to arrange the line so it would be as strictly "downhill" as possible from the switch to the carbs ... but I can't remember what came of it.

Oh, one other thing.  Make sure you're not riding for very long with the choke on.  That WILL kill the engine when it's hot and you let the bike idle ... say ... at a stop light or something.  DAMHIKT 

Quote from: Kerry on January 03, 2008, 01:31:42 AM
(On pre-'01 bikes you would have to go past REServe to PRIme, and then back again.)

I didn't know that. I've had the situation of running low, and trying to switch directly to RES to find it needed priming. After a few minutes of fiddling with PRIME and hoping I wouldn't kill the battery, I sloshed it left and it had just enough to go to the next station. Of course it _looked_ like there was plenty of gas.

Quote from: ohgood on January 03, 2008, 05:25:18 AM

Quote from: Kerry on January 03, 2008, 01:31:42 AM
(On pre-'01 bikes you would have to go past REServe to PRIme, and then back again.)

I didn't know that.

Yep!  Perhaps it's time to trot out a couple of old pics in the interest of "general enlightenment".  BTW, does anyone have a photo of an '07 fuel selector switch?  I believe it has a different arrangement (of hose connections, at least) than the '01....

I understand the need to prime the bowls before switching to RES, I recently wanted to run my tank to RES, I wanted to know the miles I had before I had to switch. I was surprised at the result but it may have to be due to riding style. My question to Kerry is, can the RES tube in the tank be set differently on different bikes? Wodyson I am not mechanically inclined as well, that is one of the reasons why I bought the GS500. I am finding the the bike is making more so inclined with every new issue

Quote from: Dan02GS on January 03, 2008, 10:05:08 AMI recently wanted to run my tank to RES, I wanted to know the miles I had before I had to switch. I was surprised at the result but it may have to be due to riding style.

Was it higher than you expected, or lower?  (My guess is lower. )

Quote from: Dan02GS on January 03, 2008, 10:05:08 AMMy question to Kerry is, can the RES tube in the tank be set differently on different bikes?

By "set differently" I assume you mean "set at a different height in the tank"?  I wouldn't expect much variation in the manufacture of the tank-mounted petcock ... which still has the original '89 part number.  But the '01+ tank does have a different shape than the pre-'01 tank (not sure how different they are on the bottom of the interior though).  Also, I seem to remember that some GS owners have accidentally pulled one or both of the metal tubes right out of their tank-mounted petcock.  (Can anyone confirm?)  If those tubes can be pulled out, then perhaps they can be inserted to different "depths".

Quote from: Dan02GS on January 03, 2008, 10:05:08 AMWodyson I am not mechanically inclined as well, that is one of the reasons why I bought the GS500. I am finding the the bike is making more so inclined with every new issue

Before I got my '99 in 2000, I knew very little about the mechanical aspects of motorcycles.  Oh, I knew how the 4-stroke cycle was supposed to work, and about spark plug gaps and so on, but I'd never been into a carburetor ... or worked on brakes ... or swapped a chain ... or lubed a cable ... or anything.  But the GS has been a great first bike because it is so easy to work on.

A few years ago I rode a friend to a dealership to pick up his new-to-him Yamaha YZFR600.  With a few years of GS500 experience under my belt, I encouraged him to turn down the extended warranty, assuring him that he could do his own work on the bike and that I would be happy to help.  As a gift, I ordered a Haynes manual for him.  When it arrived at my house, I flipped through the manual ... and wondered if I had done the right thing by my friend.  There is WAY more to that bike than there is to the GS!  Luckily, I don't think he ever had to do much more than change the oil.... (whew!)

Anyway, I'm grateful that I don't HAVE to take the bike to a dealer for every little thing.  It's been a pretty fun journey ... so far!

Yes you guessed it, trip odometer said 179 on my '02 tank. Much lower then  I expected. I was estimating around 200. I am inclined to think that the RES tube can be moved up or down and set to what ever RES you want. I would be totally fine with a 25 mile reserve, hum something new to try to figure out. 

So i have not had a chance to check the plugs, but that's what i was planning on doing next. haha i actually sloshed it around and heard gas in the tank and assumed there was enough in there, only after your suggestion did i look and see that there was in fact very little in there. so i put 2 gallons in there, put in on PRI for a bit and proceeded to start it up but same thing after multiple attempts. i forgot to check the arc of the valves from the switch to the carb, so i'll check that when i get home from work tonight. i put the throttle cables on backwards so i'm gonna have to take it apart somewhat anyhow. i hate having the issues but i'm def learning from them and that is a good thing, because i knew NOTHING before i got the bike.

Quote from: wodyson on January 03, 2008, 01:46:28 PMi put 2 gallons in there, put in on PRI for a bit and proceeded to start it up but same thing after multiple attempts.

So, it started on PRI but then ... what?  Could you give more detail about the "multiple attempts" and the results?

It's possible that you have the "blocked filler cap vent" problem, where no air can get into the tank through the cap, and that eventually prevents fuel from flowing out of the tank.  To test that, try opening your filler cap the next time the engine starts to "bog".  (You do have a second key, right?  )  You could pull over and do the test, but it's so much more exciting to perform this kind of test while you're flying down the road.  NOT!

Seriously, it would be a better test if you could somehow pop the cap while the engine is still running/bogging.  If the engine picks up and smooths out, you'll know that what you did made the difference.

sorry i didn't make that last post clear, i was tryin to get it all out while at work. no after putting in the gas and primin for awhile still nothing happened, the starter would just make it's noise, as if there were no gas in it, and i tried it multiple times, PRI for awhile then crank it on ON, tried PRI then crankin it on RES. none of it worked. tried it flat out on PRI as well.
and actually i lost my other key! but i'll see what i can figure out about the vent, although, when i was sloshin around the tank after PRIming it today i heard a sucking noise coming out of the cap so i have a feeling it's alright. well i got all night tonight to work on it so hopefully something can be figured out. i gotta get it up and running by monday cuz school starts and i gotta a parking decal for it, but without the bike i will be walking a long long way!

Quote from: wodyson on January 03, 2008, 05:10:30 PMafter putting in the gas and primin for awhile still nothing happened, the starter would just make it's noise, as if there were no gas in it, and i tried it multiple times, PRI for awhile then crank it on ON, tried PRI then crankin it on RES. none of it worked. tried it flat out on PRI as well.

Hmmm.  In that case, then yeah ... take a look at the plugs.  They ought to be damp after all that cranking.  If they're not, then we need to look for more fuel route problems.

Did you turn the tank-mounted petcock back ON after checking the carbs the second time? 

Quote from: Kerry on January 03, 2008, 07:37:00 PM

Did you turn the tank-mounted petcock back ON after checking the carbs the second time? 

Yea i did remember to turn that on.

It was too cold last night to take it apart so i'm gonna do it this morning. the only thing is i'm not really quite sure what to look for in the plugs. and you mentioned them being damp after cranking. so since it's sat over night should i try cranking again before i do this? thanks in advance for any help you can offer and also for the help so far! I definitly feel more confident this might one day be remedied with the help of this forum.

Quote from: wodyson on January 04, 2008, 07:27:21 AM
i'm not really quite sure what to look for in the plugs. and you mentioned them being damp after cranking. so since it's sat over night should i try cranking again before i do this?

Me being the "over-analyze" type, I'd check the plugs both before and after cranking.  Better yet, if I found they were damp or dirty, I'd clean 'em up before reinstalling and cranking.

There's a spark plug "socket" in the toolkit, but I tend to loosen them with a regular 18mm wrench and then spin them out by hand.  Make sure that no "junk" (rust, dirt, etc) falls into the open hole....

i got a chance to switch the throttle cables and while doing so noticed that there was barely any gas in the valves leading from the tank to the petcock. shouldn't they have been loaded with gas? anyway when i get home from work today i'll check the flow from the tank out, and also the plugs. thanks again for the help, i'll post later when i can take another look.

Quote from: wodyson on January 04, 2008, 09:42:12 AM
i got a chance to switch the throttle cables and while doing so noticed that there was barely any gas in the valves leading from the tank to the petcock. shouldn't they have been loaded with gas?

By "valves" I assume that you mean "hoses"?  Yes, they should be full of fuel.  With two gallons of fuel in the tank I would expect them BOTH to be full, but certainly the RES hose if not the other one.

Since things are sounding suspicious between the tank petcock and the fuel selector switch, you might want to do a variation of [THIS TEST].  I say "a variation" because you may not have the extra hose and couplers.  You could set an empty gas can on a chair or something, and feed both hoses into it.  This can get tricky without a friend to help, but you can probably figure something out.

The idea in having you do this "test" is:
    A) To make sure neither hose is blocked.
    B) To get a look at the petcock drain screen inside the tank (if possible).  Is it "clean"?
         (Using a flashlight for illumination is OK.  Using a match or a lighter is "right out". )

Quote from: Kerry on January 04, 2008, 10:07:51 AM

By "valves" I assume that you mean "hoses"?  Yes, they should be full of fuel.  With two gallons of fuel in the tank I would expect them BOTH to be full, but certainly the RES hose if not the other one.

Yes i meant hoses haha.

So i tested the flow of gas from the tank down to the mounted petcock, and it was fine. so now i'm taking off the fairings (actually only one side of the fairing because the other has been such a complete pain to get back on, i'm hoping that one plug will be an indication of the other, but let me know if i'm being to presumptuous) to check the plugs, but i i don't have an 18mm wrench (my set stops at 17....) and i'm having a hard time with the spark plug socket as it has some rubber thing in the middle and i guess i'm just timid to try and force it on hard as i'm afraid of breaking the plug... but i'll head back out now and man up i guess.

ok so i checked the spark plug and from what i can tell they seem to be fine, no buildup or anything.

someone pointed out to me someone else on a different forum who had what sounded ike a similar problem in which the issue was with the float height. so i'm thinking of checking that tomorrow after work. I tell you the things i could accomplish if i didn't have to work.

could anything cause my float height to be off with so little miles on the bike though, it's at like 400 miles right now?

Quote from: wodyson on January 04, 2008, 09:31:56 PM
ok so i checked the spark plug and from what i can tell they seem to be fine, no buildup or anything.

Hmmm ... and you checked them before and after "cranking" the bike?  No build up (of carbon or "gunk" I assume), but were they "damp" at all?

Quote from: wodyson on January 04, 2008, 09:31:56 PM
could anything cause my float height to be off with so little miles on the bike though, it's at like 400 miles right now?

Since the bike is 2+ years old, with very few miles, it's possible that some of the fuel in the float bowls "gummed up" at some point.  But ... didn't you say you'd been into the carbs?  Maybe I misunderstood....

Anyway, before you open 'em up, you may want to try the ol' Float Height Check trick.

no, i didn't try it after cranking it. i will try that as well.

i have been into the carbs, or at least the float bowls, and everything seemed clean, other than that i had no idea to look for as far as float height and so on.

on my way home from work i will get some of the clear tubes for the test and let you know. also i was gonna get some new screws as the aluminum ones in the carbs are sssoo easy to strip. is it necessary that i get aluminum screws for it? i assume that they used this type for a reason.