Quote from: ViD381Did I put enough gas in it? I only put about a gallon to see if it would run.

This sounds like the experience I had with MY first tank of gas.  A gallon is just about enough to get you to the "edge" of the REServe.  Put in another gallon or two.

If your vacuum line isn't leaking, and the bike runs well on PRI, this should do it. You're certainly not revving the engine high enough and long enough to experience "fuel starvation" like you MIGHT on a long, high-speed run.

It is quite possible that the frame mounted fuel switch is partially plugged or not working properly. They are flaky at best.

If it runs fine on Prime, just run it that way until you feel like taking the fuel switch apart. There is a screen and some small passages in it that can get blocked. Or the diaphram might be leaking.

If you are running on Prime, you'll have to watch the fuel level in the tank I think. I can't remember if Prime feeds off the reserve or main line, but if it doesn't run right on Reserve, it isn't goint to matter much.

I doubt oil is leaking from a wire. The only place wires penetrate an oil filled cavity is the alternator leads on the left engine cover. We need a bit more info to figure out where the oil might be leaking. The tach drive maybe? It attaches to the head on the right front side.

Quote from: ViD381I've got oil leaking from a wire going into my engine right above the two manifold pipes that go to the muffler. Can I just tighten it? And do I need to take the entire engine apart if I want to take just that wire out? I was thinking that I would be able to use some plumbers tape on the threads.

Sounds like the good old "loose tachometer cable" has struck again!

Yep, just tighten it with pliers. Don't forget to wrap something around it so you don't strip the knurled connector on the end of the cable.  If it still feels loose, or the leak persists, add in the plumber's tape.

Or, if you only want to do it once, use the plumber's tape the first time!

I think you just have a fuel flow/carb problem. The transmission is likely OK if it shifts.

The fuel switch is the thing with "Prime", "On', and "Reserve" settings on it. One thing you might try before taking it off, is to make sure the tank petcock is turned on all the way. It is right up on the tank where the fuel hoses come out of. There is a petcock that you can turn the fuel off with a straight screw driver there. Make sure it is truned all the way on.

You said it works better set at Prime? Just run it there.

Quote from: KevinC...to make sure the tank petcock is turned on all the way.

Yeah, what Kevin said.

In case it's not obvious, you have to turn the slot so it's vertical.  If you turn it so it's leaned to one side or the other, the flow will be restricted.

You have blocked passage ways in the carbs or something very strange with them. Did you put the little o-rings back under the diaphram caps (black plastic lids at the top), and are the vacuum boots on the vacuum ports on the diaphram caps?

The plastic spacers are under the needles?

The diaphrams don't have tears or holes in them?

Your carbs sound screwed up. Pretty hard to diagnose over e-mail.

Let's go back to the beginning.

1) Is it true that the bike runs fine on PRI, and only exhibits the "bad" behavior when it's set to ON or RES?

If so, then the carburetors are fine, and the only possible problems would have to do with fuel flow: restriction in the fuel line(s), insufficient vacuum between the left carb and the ON/RES/PRI petcock, internal problem in the petcock itself.

2) If the bike runs poorly even on the PRI setting (when you crank the throttle nothing happens), then I'd say you have a fuel MIXTURE problem.  This doesn't rule out fuel flow problems, of course - you could have both.

The fact that the weird stuff happens at certain throttle positions seems to point to jets or needles.  You'd have to ask someone who knows more about carbs than I do - for more specific info about which parts affect which throttle positions.

When you cleaned the carbs, did you make sure the holes in the jets were totally free of any kind of gunk?  Compared to having dirty jets, dirty bowls (or most other carb parts) are nothin'.

Yep, there should be two vacuum caps, one on each carb. That could explain most of your problems - no vacuum to raise the slide on one carb, and beacuse they are joined together it will effect the other carb as well. And it will reduce the vacuum that goes to the fuel switch, so it won't open completely at the "On" and "Reserve" settings.

Plug the other vacuum port, and see how it goes.

Both carbs should have identical washers etc. There are exploded diagrams at:

http://www.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/oem_schematic_view.asp?schem_dept_id=137676&section_dept_id=1&section_dept_name=OEM+%28Stock+Parts%29&dept_type_id=2&model_dept_year=1994&model_dept_mfr=Suzuki&model_dept_id=109280&model_dept_name=GS500E%28R%29

You need the vaccum cap (#14 in that diagram) on each carb, and you need that little o-ring (#26) under each cap.

Okay, mine looks just like that. Part #53 is a vacuum like correct? well, I connected that on skinny part of the number 2 petcock (PRI, RES, ON) The vacuum like went in the back right? Is there supposed to be another vacuum line that connects somewhere else? Maybe right above where part # 46? And if so, where do i connect it on the petcock?

Also, part #5 was the one that was missing on one of the carbs, but i replaced it with a simiular washer.

Thanks

Timothy

There is only one vacuum line from the left carb to the fuel switch. It sounds like you have it right.

That port on the other carb is not drilled out, so it doesn't go anywhere. They use the same casting body for both, and only open the appropriate ports.

The #5 washer shouldn't be super critical, but I'd get the right one. Carbs are finicky things at the best of times, no sense making some wierd problem.

Okay well I guess i'm going to have to tear everything back down and start from the beginning. That is unless you guys have something else to add... Kerry, Kevin...anything?

Also, this time when I clean my carbs could I just remove all the small stuff and then soak the entire thing in diesel fuel? Or do I have to buy that $10 a gallon carb cleaner?

-Timothy


Forgot to add that I have to have my choke out all the way still while running the bike. Idles at about 1500 RPMs with it all the way out.

Okay well I guess i'm going to have to tear everything back down and start from the beginning. That is unless you guys have something else to add... Kerry, Kevin...anything?

Also, this time when I clean my carbs could I just remove all the small stuff and then soak the entire thing in diesel fuel? Or do I have to buy that $10 a gallon carb cleaner?

-Timothy

Quote from: KevinC
That port on the other carb is not drilled out, so it doesn't go anywhere. They use the same casting body for both, and only open the appropriate ports.

So could it be that the vacuum line is connected to that port?? So try switching the vacuum line to the other carb? Just a guess....

Do you actually have an open vacuum port on the one carb? You said you only had one cap...? If that is true, , make sure those little o-rings are under the caps, plug up the open vacuum port on the top of the carb, and try it.