Okay well this time I turned the choke all the way on so the bike had about 4000 RPM.  When I unpluged the left side it only dropped about 500RPM. When I unpluged the right side it dropped about 2000-2500 RPM. So that's left side 3500RPM right side drops down to about 2000 to 1500 RPM.

Any suggestions?


Thanks

Timothy

Oh, I forgot to add that I get an electriacl shock from both the right and left side, but the right side hurts a whole lot more. Kind of erotic in a way.  

Cool!  So, it could be as simple as a bad spark plug.

But I know from past experience that just because the plug "sparks" doesn't mean things are working right.  When I had the dreaded "running on one cylinder" problem, I was stumped because both plugs tested out OK.  (Although the spark did seem more yellow than the nice blue I kept hearing I should get.)

If you switch plugs and the problem switches sides, get a new plug.  (You should keep a spare pair anyway, right?)

If the problem stays on the same side, try switching the ignition coils.  If the problem switches sides, you might be looking at a new coil.  (But before you buy, test the old one with an ohmmeter.  We can give you the right resistance values.

If the problem is STILL on the same side, it's time to check your signal generator circuits.  Start by taking off the round "Suzuki" cover on the right side of the bike. Look for anything that's loose or damaged.  If everything looks good, I can walk you through a couple of electrical tests using an ohmmeter at a couple of connectors near the battery.

You haven't mentioned yet whether you have an ohmmeter.  If you do, read my posts in the following threads and see if they help.  (Use the resistance values from the first post, and the step-by-step instructions from the second.)

problem starting it, then it dies, help!

no spark now

A portion of one of the wiring diagrams in my Haynes manual may be useful, too.  The corroded 4-wire connector (from the pictures in the second thread above) is in the upper-left corner of this diagram.  The three wire connector that comes off the wiring harness near the battery is in the middle right of the diagram (with the same Green/white, Brown and Black/blue wires).


When you test the ignition coils, you need to know which are the primary windings and which are the secondary.  To test the primary windings, remove the connectors for the small wires that come from the ignition system.  Use the connection points as your test points. To test the secondary windings, touch one lead inside the spark plug boot and the other to ground.  At least, I HOPE that's right!

EDIT: Changed link from sisna.com to bbburma.net

An ohmmeter is a tool that measures resistance in electrical wiring.  You can get one at a hardware store.  Home Depot, Lowes, and other places like that should carry them.  Better chance of finding one would be at a local electrical supply store.

Ohmmeter = The function on a multimeter which measures electrical resistance.  Here are some pictures of the one I have at work.  Cost is about $15.  (They can go a little cheaper, or WAY more expensive, too.)




The ohmmeter functions are in the lower left, with the Greek "Omega" symbol.

Yes, the idle should be set somewhere around 1300.  When you start out from a stop, you should be giving it some gas.  Your revs should be around 2500 at a minimum - more if you're taking off from a green light  .

The right-side Suzuki plate has no gasket behind it, because there are no fluids back there.  It hides a whirling rotor-thingie that sends the spark signal to your ignition coils.  There are a few wires and connectors - I just wanted you to give them a visual check, feel for tight connections, etc.

Would a weak battery cause these symptoms?  Uhhhh ... maybe.  But if it consistently starts the bike, it's not weak.

Stock NGK plugs are perfect.  You got the ones in the middle of the "heat range" right?  DPR8EA-9?  And you set the gaps correctly?

EDIT: Changed links from sisna.com to bbburma.net

Take your time.  But whatever you do, don't give up!

BTW, my information on testing the ignition coils wasn't quite correct.  This diagram shows the right test points for the secondary windings:


Resistance values for ignition coils:
Primary windings = 3.0 to 6.0 ohms
Secondary windings = 18,000 to 30,000 ohms

And for good measure, the pulse generator coils in the wiring diagram should register 250 to 420 ohms.

EDIT: Changed link from sisna.com to bbburma.net

Kerry, you were right the first time on the coil procedure. The picture is showing an IB (insulation breakdown) test for the coil which should be open (any resistance including 0 is a bad coil). Secondary resistance is from plug lead to ground (for a single spark plug coil). The range of the numbers for secondary resistance looks like it is for either a test with or without the plug cap so it can be done either at the plug cap (as shown, except to ground instead of the primary post) or where the plug wire connects to the coil. Checking from the plug cap to the mounting post of the coil is the easiest in most cases.

Quote from: Kerry
Stock NGK plugs are perfect.  You got the ones in the middle of the "heat range" right?  DPR8EA-9?  And you set the gaps correctly?

NGK
The box has two numbers 4929 and DPR8EA-9   It doesn't say anything about heat range. They are gapped correctlly.


-Timothy

Test with the bike OFF.  You can test the coils without removing them from the bike.  You might be able to get at them without removing anything, but it will be easier if the tank is off.

My Haynes manual mentions NGK DPR8EA-8 and DPR8EA-10 plugs (I think those are the numbers) for situations when you need a "colder" or "hotter" plug.  But forget I ever mentioned "heat range" - you got the right stuff.

Finally, don't go replacing parts until you know what's wrong.  Eliminate things one at a time.  If/when the time comes, ask on this board first, and then start checking online places like BikeBandit, motorcycle wrecking yards, etc.

Quote from: MooseAll an ohm meter allows you to do is test continuity or a continuious circuit.

Moose, I think you're talking about a continuity tester, which is a handy tool for Yes/No situations.

In this case we're checking for resistance values within certain ranges, therefore the ohmmeter, which measures resistance in ohms.  The symbol for the ohm is that Greek Omega character on the multimeter picture.

[FWIW - The ohm is named after a German physicist named Georg Simon Ohm who was born in 1787 and died in 1854.  He is the guy who came up with Ohm's Law, which spells out the relationship between the voltage, current, and resistance in a given circuit.  For more info, see http://webhome.idirect.com/~jadams/electronics/ohm.htm or any of hundreds more pages you can find with an Internet search engine.]

Quote from: KerryMoose, I think you're talking about a continuity tester, which is a handy tool for Yes/No situations.

In this case we're checking for resistance values within certain ranges, therefore the ohmmeter, which measures resistance in ohms.  The symbol for the ohm is that Greek Omega character on the multimeter picture.

I do apologize for giving incorrect information.  You are right the ohm meter test for resistance and a continuity tester test for a complete circuit.  
Ohms; This is the resistance of the wire to flow of electricity. Or thinking of the difference between a small diameter hose and a large diameter hose. The range of ohms goes from zero to infinity. Zero ohms is when it's real easy for the electricity to flow. A reading of infinity is when there is no path for the electricity to go through (a closed valve).
continuity:The state or quality of being continuous.
An uninterrupted succession or flow; a coherent whole.(or a closed circuit)

I hate it when I make a mistake like that.  :x

I've got an ohmmeter, atleast i think i do. I found it around the house. It's yellow and dusty...

I don't know if it's what I need, or if it has a high enough ratting.

Let me know.

Thanks,

Timothy