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WooHoo for ebay!!!!

Started by spc, March 02, 2008, 10:20:49 PM

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spc

I just grabbed a set of 6 pot calipers for my gixxer with new EBC HH pads, stainless lines and the stock 750 master for $60!!!!  Not bad considering EBC pads for my stock 4 pots are $28 a side. :icon_mrgreen:

makenzie71

should have posted you were looking...I've got three sets of 6-pots with EBC or Galfer pads...

spc

ehhh, I wasn't really looking.  I just decided to see what was on ebay and saw it.  I'm told these things stop pretty aggressively, what's your take on em??

makenzie71

They were noticeable but the 4-pots were more than adequate.

I will warn you, though, that if you're running a 1/2" master you will need to get a 5/8" or bigger to operate teh two 6-piston calipers.  I'm not sure what the GSXR runs, but my TL ran 1/2" and 4-pots stock...had to up the whole package.

spc

The whole rig came with a 5/8" master.  Just got here today, I'll probably put em on tomorrow as it's supposed to rain and I need to pick up some brake fluid.

97gs500e

schweet!  I've got 6-pots with HH pads on my sv650  8)
'A government big enough to give you everything you want, is strong enough to take everything you have..'

'12 CBR1000RR
'01 SV650 (sold)
'03 Ninja 250R (sold)
'05 CRF50F (sold)
'94 DR125SE (sold)
'02 SV650 (sold)
'06 TTR50E (sold)
'05 SV1000S (sold)
'97 GS500E (sold)

spc

I bled everything and cleaned it all up a good bit. I can't wait to get em on and give em a good breaking in this week end. :icon_twisted:

bettingpython

EBC has a FAQ discussing the bedding procedure for their pads.

Not bedding in your HH pads can lead to glazing issues under hard usage.....just a suggestion.
Why didn't you just go the whole way and buy me a f@#king Kawasaki you bastards.

spc

Thanks BP,  I'm reading it right now :thumb:

beRto

Quote from: bettingpython on March 06, 2008, 08:52:00 PM
EBC has a FAQ discussing the bedding procedure for their pads.

Not bedding in your HH pads can lead to glazing issues under hard usage.....just a suggestion.

Is this what you meant? (excerpt from EBC Typical Q&A)

9. Bedding in EBC pads
In Street use situations ...
Bedding in when the red EBC surface coating (marked on the pads as Brake In) is applied.
Best procedure is to drive gently avoiding harsh braking unless in an emergency for first 100 miles. In the second 100 miles (up to 200) you can use gently increasing brake pressures when using the brakes.

Only after 200 miles urban driving (not 200 miles on a freeway where brakes are almost unused) should you attempt to apply heavy load and heat to the brakes. To do this final bedding on a QUIET ROAD in safe traffic apply the brakes and slow from 60 to 10 MPH five times in a row. Then drive slowly for a few minutes if safe to do so to allow the brakes to cool. Try to avoid coming to a rest whilst the brakes are heated.

A smell may be noticed from the warm brakes, this is normal. Repeat this procedure a second time after the brakes have TOTALLY cooled down. EBC pads get better with miles. Even after this bed in procedure it can take up to 1500 miles before the pads are at their best. In the meantime the pads will be good and safe but true potential not realised. EBC makes performance pads that last, they do not bed in within 5 minutes driving. Noises will be more likely during the first 1000-1500 miles use whilst this chemical bedding takes place.

Bedding in for trackday or race use ...
We remind you there is NO WARRANTY on any EBC product for race use due to the very varying conditions that can be seen. However, care bedding pads in and monitoring wear will get the best from our products.

Most EBC pads including Yellow range pads now have the brake in coating. If possible and using a street based car, fit the pads before the race use and bed in as above for street use. Try to get 200-300 miles urban driving on the pads before racing them. If this is NOT possible and you fit at the track bed like this.

Drive two laps steadily applying the brakes every few seconds and then coast for a full lap without any unnecessary braking to allow pads and rotors to cool down. Drive a third lap applying the brakes slightly harder each time and again drive a cooldown lap. Do NOT pull up and park the car with the brakes red hot, try to let them cool as much as possible before coming to a rest. It is also important to understand that the pads must be geometrically matched to the rotor (flat and parallel) before they will bed in chemically. If you do the above bed in and get violent fade first use you MUST repeat the bedding procedure. We get lots of new customers calling in saying my brakes have faded and when they send a digital the pad is only touching on 70-80% of its surface area. Fade early in a pads life is almost a good thing. It is called GREEN fade and will disappear so if you suffer Green fade (you will notice this by smell), you are on the right path and this is not a negative. If you are getting fade after 20 laps and the pads are part worn, then something else needs looking into such as material choice, bleeding of the system, driving style etc ...


bettingpython

That would be it beRto.

Yeah it says car but it is applicable to bikes as well.
Why didn't you just go the whole way and buy me a f@#king Kawasaki you bastards.

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