Almost have all the bugs worked out of this bike that has been sitting for eight years! The last one, I hope, is an oil leak from the gasket beneath the cover of the crankcase on the right side. It looks like a straightfoward job. Drain oil, cover off, remove old gasket and residue, new gasket, replace cover, replace oil. Do I need a sealant on the new gasket? Anything else I am overlooking?
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First, check this drawing:

http://images.powersportsnetwork.com/fiche/images/Suzuki/1989/Motorcycles/2103_5.gif

There are two locating dowels behind the right crankcase cover (see numbers 3 and 16 in the drawing). Don't mix them up; don't lose them. The right-side gasket is #2 in the diagram (OK, obvious to most, but maybe not to all who'll see this, if they aren't wrenchers just yet). The gasket shouldn't require sealant, but I might be wrong about that, because I haven't replaced one on a GS (soon, I'm sure). In my experience, most "external" Suzuki gaskets are designed to be applied without sealant, but I'm sure there are exceptions to be found...

Remember to tighten the cover in stages, so you don't warp it. Use the common criss-cross pattern (you know, similar to tightening lug nuts when you change a tire), and snug everything down evenly. I don't know the recommended torque for those bolts, but I'm sure someone else has a manual they can get those specs from, if it is important.

I'm in the habit of applying a light coating of Hylomar to most "dry" gaskets before installation (under the signal cover, for example), but that probably isn't recommended for the crankcase gasket, since it is exposed to the oil. Install it correctly, and your oil leaks should be history.

Hope at least some of this information helped you; not everyone who reads this will know as much as you do about removing and replacing parts, so I'm trying to keep that in mind as I type.

Let us know if you need more information; if not, let us know how this turns out, or if things aren't kosher when you remove the cover. If you run into real problems, post some photos online somewhere:

BTW, that diagram is for a 1996 model (1989 - 1996), so it might not apply to your particular GS, but since you mentioned that it has been sitting for eight years, I figured it can't be newer than 1999 / 2000...

I cant get the fu^$*!ng crankcase cover off!

Did you remove the foot shifter and sprocket cover first?I used a soft face hammer and a rag on the cover and tapped it gently.Took about 10 minutes but it finally loosened up.Don't pry it off or it will leak forever.

I am very sorry gentlemen but I fear I have been using the wrong terminology. I am dealing with the "clutch cover". Now that I have that bit of information I have done a forum search and found plenty of information on the subject....most importantly that there are two more screws to remove behind the "timing plate". The ignition rotor must come off as well. Back out to the garage now!

Quote from: BladeRunner on March 24, 2008, 12:41:17 PM
I am very sorry gentlemen but I fear I have been using the wrong terminology. I am dealing with the "clutch cover". Now that I have that bit of information I have done a forum search and found plenty of information on the subject....most importantly that there are two more screws to remove behind the "timing plate". The ignition rotor must come off as well. Back out to the garage now!

Yeah, I DID mention the RIGHT crankcase cover in my previous reply, you know, the one that hides the CLUTCH... so I don't think you got the terminology wrong at all, it was probably just a misinterpretation, which happens to all of us on occasion.

Best advice I can give you now is, don't rush this. It's easy to put everything back together, then realize that you forgot to reconnect the wire to the oil pressure switch, or something else... you only want to do this once, so take your time and do it RIGHT.

When you get a free minute, let us know how this turns out.

Well I just got back from a test ride at 60 mph at 5000 rpm and there is no obvious sign of leakage around the clutch cover. I'm surprised. There were scratches and gouges in several places on surfaces of the pieces that should mate smoothly. The techs at the dealership advised me to purchase some "Yamabond" semi-drying liquid gasket. I applied a small bead on both the cover and the engine and sandwiched the gasket in between. I have a strong feeling this bike has a history that neither I nor the previous owner, my niece, are aware of.
Anyway, I hope that brings my long strange trip of repair issues to an end, for now. This is my first bike and I certainly have bonded with her at that level. Now, let's get out on the road!
Thanks to you all that have replied to my posts. I hope I can get some riding in before I am forced to post more repair issues.

You are going to want to pull the right side case cover off again and get the sealant out of there. The oil that feeds the counterbalancer goes through the right side crankcase via two small holes and the groove. If you get sealent and plug it up you can spin a bearing pretty easy.

Rule of Thumb: Never, I repeat never, put sealant on the crankcases of the GS. This especially goes to the left side case.

2nd Rule of Thumb: Never trust the techs at any shop, they typically don't know shaZam! about the GS motors.

Can you give me an indication of where the holes and groove are located?

on the bottom side, below the crankcase seal

I would help, I think, if I had an illustration to examine so I could locate the orifices you are refering to. Can you guide me to some? I've checked my service manual and parts guide and I cant locate a good visual aide.

Here is a description given by Bob Broussard from an old thread

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=3588.0

"When you remove the clutch side case. Look close and you will notice a slotted area by the crankshaft seal. Make sure NOTHING clogs this area! This is where the 2 bolts under the ignition plate go. On the gasket you will see some small holes in this area.
Oil goes through the gasket hole into the slot, back out another hole and into the counterbalancer bearing. When putting on a new gasket, ONLY put sealer around the outside of the case. Leave the slotted area clean. I also don't put sealer on the engine side.
This way the case can be pulled off without damaging the gasket.
If the slotted area gets plugged up it will starve the counterbalancer bearing of oil and ruin it.
I use a T handled wrench to tighten the bolts. I just snug them down first and then give them an extra twist. Never torqued them, broke them or had a leak.
The same thing goes for the flywheel side.
That ones more critical, because the oil slot is on the edge of the case. So great care must be taken not to plug it with sealer."

Thank you so much for your quick reply. I only put the sealer around the outside perimeter of the cover and the engine...not around the slot (groove) that is in question. Am I OK? I hope so because I have a strong feeling that if I have to go through this repair again without sealer being used I'm gonna have myself one oil-leaking bike again!

Its all up to you, as long you feel that you avoided putting it near the oil passages then continue to ride. If it where me personally, I would drop the $10 and order a new gasket. Then I would check the mating surface and only apply a small amount of sealer on the crankcase side to the places where you have large gouges. And avoid any sealer near the crank seal.

It really depends on how much sealer you used. ITs really ends being your judgment call.

Thanks coll
I'm gonna swing by the Suzuki shop and take a look at a new gasket. The tech there should be able to point out the areas in question on it and I can make a decision from there. I dont want my lazyness or a few bucks to cost me a ton of money if this bearing fries.