When i replace the stator i need to the replace the side cover gasket, right?
Is it number 15 on the diagram here?


Also is the oil filter stud number 12 in this picture? i always thought it was bigger than that.


Is there anything else i need to do the job right?
Is there anything else i should order while im at it?

THANK YOU

To answer your questions:

Yes, the stator is located behind the LEFT crankcase cover, so you DO have to replace the gasket (# 15) in the drawing. Removing the crankcase cover will probably damage the gasket, and you don't want any leaks in that area, so replace the gasket.

The oil filter stud IS # 12 in that second diagram; the studs are SMALL because they do NOT require much force to tighten them; the rubber o-ring does the actual sealing, so do NOT overtighten the cap screws (AKA "acorn nuts"; yes, I'm an old-timer) when you replace them. Just make them SNUG, put in some oil, and watch for leaks. If oil drips out from behind the filter cover, tighten the caps a little more. Remember, you want to tighten them EVENLY. You don't want to find out the HARD WAY what bad things happen when you overtighten things.

Just keep in mind the general rule that the smaller a fastener (nut, bolt, screw, whatever) is, the LESS force is required to tighten it. Be GENTLE, and you won't strip the stud holes.

Lastly, you might want to use MRCycles.com diagrams; they are MUCH clearer than the ones at Bikebandit.com:

http://images.powersportsnetwork.com/fiche/images/Suzuki/1989/Motorcycles/2103_5.gif

Good luck with this; since I don't know what you're trying to accomplish, I can't advise you on any other parts you might need. If you're only replacing the stator and changing the oil, you probably don't need anything except the new stator, GASKET, and an oil filter and o-ring.

EDIT: Added the word GASKET to the last sentence. Thinking and typing when I'm medicated is not easy...

you dont need gaskets, use silicone from an auto parts store, its simple and effective,and wont ever leak.

Quote from: cd on March 30, 2008, 04:34:44 PM
you dont need gaskets, use silicone from an auto parts store, its simple and effective,and wont ever leak.

However, I should add that in time it will flake off and block the oil pump pick up screen.Starving the engine of oil,causing major damage and even lock up.

Quote from: cd on March 30, 2008, 04:34:44 PM
you dont need gaskets, use silicone from an auto parts store, its simple and effective,and wont ever leak.

Don't do this, there are a couple passages that go through the left side crankcase cover that act to feed pressurized oil to the counter balancer. So if any the silicone blocks those holes, say hello to a spun bearing.

Infact, purchase the gasket, and do not use any silicone sealant at all, it comes from the factory without it anyways!

You will also need a putty knife to scrape the old gasket off. The stuff becomes brittle and is very difficult to remove, so be carefull to not gouge the surfaces.

Silicone from the auto parts store: $5
OEM gasket: $40
Rebuilding your engine when you spin a bearing: upwards of a few hundred if you don't do it yourself.
The 'I told you so' moment we will all enjoy should this happen: f%$king priceless

Quote from: spcterry on March 30, 2008, 04:50:44 PM
Silicone from the auto parts store: $5
OEM gasket: $40
Rebuilding your engine when you spin a bearing: upwards of a few hundred if you don't do it yourself.
The 'I told you so' moment we will all enjoy should this happen: f%$king priceless

My gasket cost me $10.40+ $2.xx shipping.Not sure if it's OE but it seals good.

the gasket was $7.72
and it is on its way

thank you all

God parts for the GS are cheap   that's the only thing I don't like about the Duc.

Quote from: JeremyP on March 30, 2008, 04:55:21 PM
the gasket was $7.72
and it is on its way

thank you all

As others have pointed out, using any type of sealant goo around oil passages is a BAD thing; I should have mentioned that, but forgot...

Also, do NOT lose the locating dowel (# 16 in the diagram); you need it to get everything aligned properly when you start the reassembly.

You can buy a can of gasket remover at the auto parts store, but be careful with the stuff; some types are caustic, and some will remove paint, so read the labels before you plunk down any money. Do NOT use paint stripper or oven cleaner; mostly you'll need elbow grease and patience to deal with the old gasket. The metal is rather soft, so as coll0412 mentioned, be careful not to gouge the mating surfaces.

Just wondering, where did you order the gasket?

thanks for the advice!

ordered from bike bandit