This is my situation.  My 1993 GS doesn't like to give a good spark.  It'll produce probably the sissiest spark i've ever seen. ( You can see it but very barely, and then every so often at random intervals it'll have one or two good ones.  In a ratio of about 9:1, bad to good.)
Yes I've done all the usuall, battery is new and good, new plugs, checked all connections, coils check with VOM.  Hell I even hot wired my bike today just to take the key ignition switch out of the equation.  I don't think that it's my R/R unit because my battery  holds a charge. 

The GS will run intermittently but not reliable though, i have gotten it running and riddin it.  It just sometimes likes to crap out on me, or go 20mph at WOT in 1st gear.  absolutely no power.  Sometimes it'll just start and sitting on the center stand at WOT will barely break 1K rpms.  I'm thinking it might be the CDI/Ignitor brain box.  Hope not though.  I live in Reno so there is no corrosion on the connectors, i still cleaned them anyways.  No broken wires, no rubbed wires where there would be a short, nothing of the such.  The only things I havent done is
a) double check the battery, it'll crank the bike all day long however. 
b) there is two loose wires inside the headlight unit one B/W one BR right next to eachother.  My wiring diagram says that this for a position light though.  So I shrugged it off as no big deal.

Help please i'm going insane over this damn electrical issue.

silly question but did you check the spark plug leads?

yes i actually replaced the wires about a month ago with some nice ones.  It couldn't be those because it did run well for a while and now doesn't.  It'll run intermittently, some days its good, some days its bad. 

Please keep asking questions, because it might lead be to an epiphany, so I can get out of this brain fart i seem to be having.

You have not yet mentioned testing the Signal Generator (ignition pickups). Under the LH side panel you will find a small connecter block made up with three cables of the following colours:

Brown
Green with a white trace
Black with a blue trace.

Sperate the connector and check the resistances between the brown/black and the green/black cables on the side leading back to the engine. You are looking for a resistance value of 250-400 ohms.
It would also be a good idea to remove the cover and visualy check the condition of the wiring and the pickups and check the advancer is not loose on the end of the crank.

yes your right i haven't checked the resistance.  I have however have checked it visually.  It looks brand new and is not loose. I'll check the resistance soon.  Didn't know the resistnace I was looking for.

Figures are all quoted in the service manuals.

it checked out.  both connections came out to be 348 exactly.   SO i'm at a total loss now.

I just rechecked the R/R unit again and i'm getting anywhere from 1.3k ohms to 1.7k ohms on all connections.  Is this because of i did it without the use of the "Suzuki Pocket tester"?

Auxillary f^%king ground ...
Not in the manual. ... never in any freaking manual.
Cool.
Buddha.

Got it running.  I decided to replace the plugs and wires since the leads for S and G's.  It now runs but when I was riding it, last night (which was cold) it took forever for her to start.  Seemed like the battery was going or the starter was drawing too much current.  However when I finally did get her to run the red oil light did not come on when I stopped the bike, and while riding the neutral light would cut in and out.  One stop light it would turn on, the next no light.  When I parked the bike the light was on, so It's not burnt out.  The spark is still fairly week in my opinion, but she runs so no complaints.  What do you think would cause this wierd thing with the neutral light??