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Bleeding Brakes

Started by bucks1605, April 21, 2008, 12:52:07 PM

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bucks1605

First off, I've been searching for info on bleeding brakes for the past two hours and I still feel uneasy about the whole process. So I thought I'd ask for some opinions. I'm going to be bleeding the brakes on my kat f/e hopefully this weekend and I need some advice.

First off, what's the easiest and best way (hopefully those two go together) to do this? Should I invest in one of those mity vac systems? What about speed bleeders? What kind of steps are involved? I can't find a good step by step how to anywhere. I'm a visual learner and I do best with pictures or video, and I'm having no luck.

I'd really like to get this right, since brakes are kinda important...
SV1000K3 Bought 03/17/09
1996 GS500E Sold 03/03/09


bucks1605

That first link helped a lot. I'm surprised I didn't see that.

Any who, it's probably important to note that my system is completely dry and I'm not sure when it was last used. So should I pony up and buy the mity vac system? Or could I get by with a set of speed bleeders?
SV1000K3 Bought 03/17/09
1996 GS500E Sold 03/03/09

Trwhouse

Hey there,
I'd say, forget the speed bleeders.
I tried them.
Didn't work too well with dry lines.
Then I bought a Craftsman mity-vac unit and it was the answer to the hassles.
Get one and you won't regret it.
It worked great and FAST!
Best wishes,
Todd
1991 GS500E owner

bucks1605

Quote from: Trwhouse on April 21, 2008, 01:37:29 PM
Hey there,
I'd say, forget the speed bleeders.
I tried them.
Didn't work too well with dry lines.
Then I bought a Craftsman mity-vac unit and it was the answer to the hassles.
Get one and you won't regret it.
It worked great and FAST!
Best wishes,
Todd

Alright I think you've convinced me. I was already kind of leaning that direction because the lines were completely dry.

Thanks Todd  :cheers:
SV1000K3 Bought 03/17/09
1996 GS500E Sold 03/03/09

bucks1605

Quote from: Trwhouse on April 21, 2008, 01:37:29 PM
Hey there,
I'd say, forget the speed bleeders.
I tried them.
Didn't work too well with dry lines.
Then I bought a Craftsman mity-vac unit and it was the answer to the hassles.
Get one and you won't regret it.
It worked great and FAST!
Best wishes,
Todd

I was doing a little looking on the Sears site, and they have a couple units. I'm hoping the $34.99 unit will suffice?

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/s_10153_12605_Automotive_Tools+%26+Equipment_Automotive+Specialty+Tools#viewItems=20&pageNum=1&sortOption=ORIGINAL_SORT_ORDER&&filter=Brand%7CMity+Vac&lastFilter=Brand
SV1000K3 Bought 03/17/09
1996 GS500E Sold 03/03/09

Trwhouse

Hi again,
Yep, that's the one I bought, too.
You'll be glad you did. :)
Good luck,
Todd   :)
1991 GS500E owner

bucks1605

Great, thanks a lot. I'm glad it wasn't that $130 unit!  :o
SV1000K3 Bought 03/17/09
1996 GS500E Sold 03/03/09

yamahonkawazuki

or take a container place underneath teh bleeder screw. attach a piece of line to said screw. open it. open reservoir, start filling, fluid will come out. close bleeder screw. pump brake lever, open screw, when no air comes out, your done ( close screw)and make sure fluid level in reservoir does not get to low. whenfisished top it off. no need for a mity vac or the like. unless you feel as if you need it
Jan 14 2010 0310 I miss you mom
Vielen dank Patrick. Vielen dank
".
A proud Mormon
"if you come in with the bottom of your cast black,
neither one of us will be happy"- Alan Silverman MD

bucks1605

Quote from: yamahonkawazuki on April 21, 2008, 07:39:24 PM
or take a container place underneath teh bleeder screw. attach a piece of line to said screw. open it. open reservoir, start filling, fluid will come out. close bleeder screw. pump brake lever, open screw, when no air comes out, your done ( close screw)and make sure fluid level in reservoir does not get to low. whenfisished top it off. no need for a mity vac or the like. unless you feel as if you need it

I was considering using that method to save money. I just wasn't sure how long it would take or how well it would work since the system is completely dry. If the mity vac will make it quick and easy, I think it would be worth the $35
SV1000K3 Bought 03/17/09
1996 GS500E Sold 03/03/09

GeeP

Every zero you add to the tolerance adds a zero to the price.

If the product "fails" will the product liability insurance pay for the "failure" until it turns 18?

Red '96
Black MK2 SV

bucks1605

You know what? That settles it, it must be a sign to buy the mity vac. GeeP has the same number of posts as the year I was born!
SV1000K3 Bought 03/17/09
1996 GS500E Sold 03/03/09

ecpreston

#12
Quote from: bucks1605 on April 21, 2008, 08:12:16 PMI was considering using that method to save money. I just wasn't sure how long it would take or how well it would work since the system is completely dry. If the mity vac will make it quick and easy, I think it would be worth the $35

It takes a little while for gravity to fill the line, maybe ~30 min. Walk away, drink a couple beers, come back, it's ready to bleed.

I see you've already decided against the speed bleeders, I 2nd that. They're only semi-useful for a car, but when you can reach the lever and bleeder at the same time, I don't see the point. I didn't have a good experience with them on a car, they didn't bleed well and didn't seal completely. Broke two of them off in the calipers (they're much more delicate). And it's just one more failure point.... not worth it for brakes!

GeeP

#13
Quote from: bucks1605 on April 21, 2008, 08:27:06 PM
You know what? That settles it, it must be a sign to buy the mity vac. GeeP has the same number of posts as the year I was born!

:laugh:

I haven't read the instructions lately on bleeding the brakes.  However, I suggest you remove the front caliper and place it higher than the master cylinder when you apply the mity vac.  That will make things go MUCH faster.  It's difficult to suck air bubbles DOWN!   ;)

Just be sure that you DO NOT under ANY CIRCUMSTANCES touch the brake lever.  Otherwise you'll get you rebuild your brake caliper when you spit the puck out.  Done it a few times myself.   :mad:
Every zero you add to the tolerance adds a zero to the price.

If the product "fails" will the product liability insurance pay for the "failure" until it turns 18?

Red '96
Black MK2 SV

ben2go

Kat F/e start with the caliper on the left the line on that side is the longest and hardest side to bleed.At least it was fur me.Use some tubing on the bleeders and run them down to a small bottle with a lid.I use a clean and dry 20 ounce water bottle with a hole drilled in the top for the hose.I put about 2 ounces of fresh clean fluid in the bottle and make sure the end of the hose is in the fluid.I add fluid to the master and slowly start pumping away.As long as the hose is tight and the end is under the fluid you don't have to constantly open and close the bleeder.You'll still need to do it to check for trapped air.This is my technique.I'm sure some one will scream not to do it this way but it's worked for me for over 15 years.
PICS are GONE never TO return.

bucks1605

Thanks for the tips guys. I think I'm going to get the mity vac from sears. I have a return credit there for almost $30, so the mity vac would be a nice way to spend that, or I could put that towards a torque wrench...
SV1000K3 Bought 03/17/09
1996 GS500E Sold 03/03/09

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