Hey Guys,

I am in the middle of a GSXR wheel swap with a 160-60 Conti Road Attach.  I had previously mocked it up with just the rim (no problem) but was pretty worried that the 160 wouldn't fit; but i fitted it up last night and it looks like it will work with a little adjustment.   Without doing anything I have about 1-2/16th of a inch clear from the chain and I am just barely touching the brake rod.  I am planning on shimming out the sprocket with washers to get adequate clearance, which brings me to my questions.  How much clearance is adequate?  turd indicated in his Katanna rear wheel swap that 1/8 of an inch would be sufficient, but that seems kinda tight?  Any thoughts?

I also noted that Turd heated his break arm up then modified it by putting it in a bench press.  I also saw that GS Jack was able to modify his with a hammer (no heat).  So I was wondering how malformed/kinked the break arm turned out using either method.  Should i lean towards one over the other. 

My last question (not about clearance at all) relates to the cush drive.  Does anyone know if I should be using the rubber stops from the GSX wheel or the GS wheel in the swap?  The GSX ones look a little larger.  Also, how much effort should it take to put the cush drive on.  I had to lightly tap the sprocket bolts with a hammer to get it down all he way (to sit flush with the wheel).  I did have the wheel painted which can be part of the problem but was wondering if there is something wrong with tapping it down?  Also, kinda worried that I will not get it 'perfectly flush'.  Not sure if this is something I should be concerned with or not.   

Thanks in advance for the input. 

I switched my rear tire to a 160 on a 4.5 katana rim. 2 modifications I had to make to clear the tire from break arm and the chain from rubbing the tire.  I took off the break arm after i had marked where the tire was rubbing and banged it with a hammer, once I put the arm back on I couldn't tell any difference at all, I was prepared to paint it, but didn't need to.  The 2 was the chain rubbing the tire, i had numerous washers laying around and happened to find 5 matching, I guess 1/8 inch size width. Put the chain out just enough without pushing it out too far. Haven't had a problem yet, pushed it to 118 120 mph all the time!!  Good Luck!

The GS and Katana use the same cush drive rubbers. Part# 64651-27A01
There will be a little resistance pushing them in. The Kats are newer and not dried out (hence smaller) like the GS may be.

Quote from: Chef GS500f 06 on May 01, 2008, 11:41:38 AM
I switched my rear tire to a 160 on a 4.5 katana rim. 2 modifications I had to make to clear the tire from break arm and the chain from rubbing the tire.  I took off the break arm after i had marked where the tire was rubbing and banged it with a hammer, once I put the arm back on I couldn't tell any difference at all, I was prepared to paint it, but didn't need to.  The 2 was the chain rubbing the tire, i had numerous washers laying around and happened to find 5 matching, I guess 1/8 inch size width. Put the chain out just enough without pushing it out too far. Haven't had a problem yet, pushed it to 118 120 mph all the time!!  Good Luck!

I was worried about the break-arm looking like garbage after hitting it with the hammer, but it sounds like it shouldn't be to bad.  Thanks!

Quote from: dgyver on May 01, 2008, 11:58:30 AM
The GS and Katana use the same cush drive rubbers. Part# 64651-27A01
There will be a little resistance pushing them in. The Kats are newer and not dried out (hence smaller) like the GS may be.

I actually used the 88 GSXR rim.  Are they the same part too?  The GSXR ones seemed a little bigger.  I would think I should probably use the GS ones as I am using the GS cush drive, but am not sure.  Thanks! 

I just looked it up... same part number.

Thanks.  Guess I will use the GS ones as they are newer. 

I just bought a propane torch from home depot for about $10 and beat my brake toque are with a hammer. Naturally the heat and hammer work ruined the paint, so I just sprayed it with some indoor/outdoor flat black spray paint.

I thought the 88 GSXR wheel was 3.5 inches.Check to make sure.Some 160's aren't rated for a wheel that narrow.

Quote from: ben2go on May 01, 2008, 02:41:49 PM
I thought the 88 GSXR wheel was 3.5 inches.Check to make sure.Some 160's aren't rated for a wheel that narrow.

Nope.  It's one of the wheel swap options listecd on the Wiki.

Do you guys think the sproket needs lock tight?  I had to use the breaker bar to get them off so i assume it was used when it was originally assesmbled

The stock nut are lock nuts.

Gotcha. 

Last question.

How tight should the axel be?  I finished re-installing the wheel and torqed down the axle bolt and then realized the wheel bearly moved.  I then lossed it up some and the wheel spun maybe half a turn.  Is that right?  Or should there be more free play?

Thanks!

Lets see here ... you tighten the axle and the wheel stops spinning.
OK you forgot to put in the spacer sleeve between the bearings in the wheel did ya ... I cannot see how else ... unless you crushed the swingarm and got the brake torque arm to make contact with this or that ...
Cool.
Buddha.

Quote from: The Buddha on May 06, 2008, 10:49:53 AM
Lets see here ... you tighten the axle and the wheel stops spinning.
OK you forgot to put in the spacer sleeve between the bearings in the wheel did ya ... I cannot see how else ... unless you crushed the swingarm and got the brake torque arm to make contact with this or that ...

Are you talking about the spacer that goes in between the bearings?  That was put in.  I don't think i crushed the swing arm, though.

So i guess it is not normal that the more you tighten the axle nut, the less movement in the wheel.  I guess i need to take it apart and look at it then right?

Quote from: Whatever6060 on May 06, 2008, 03:25:46 PM

Quote from: The Buddha on May 06, 2008, 10:49:53 AM
Lets see here ... you tighten the axle and the wheel stops spinning.
OK you forgot to put in the spacer sleeve between the bearings in the wheel did ya ... I cannot see how else ... unless you crushed the swingarm and got the brake torque arm to make contact with this or that ...

Are you talking about the spacer that goes in between the bearings?  That was put in.  I don't think i crushed the swing arm, though.

So i guess it is not normal that the more you tighten the axle nut, the less movement in the wheel.  I guess i need to take it apart and look at it then right?

The wheel should still spin freely for at least one or two rotations at proper torque specs.

I just installed the wheel with no chain and brake arm, and it rotated freely (10 rotation maybe) with a easy spin.  So I def don't think I'm missing any spacers (plus I checked the diagram in Clymers).

Then I installed the brake arm and caliper and noted that rotation of the wheel slowed tremendously, which would make sense because I didn't install the washer (to alight the break caliper as indicated in pablo's sawp instruction).  After modifying the caliper i didn't have enough room for the washer and thought leaving a litttle extra meat on the caliper would serve the same purpose.  Guess not. 

I'm going to try and take a little more off the caliper and then insert the washer between the caliper braket and the right spacer.  Hopefully that will solve that issue.   

Sounds like the brake pad is probably rubbing a little.

Yeah it sounds like it.  Hopefully the additional spacer will help the alignment of the caliper. 

So, I took some more off the caliper and added the spacer last night.  But since I tested the brake with the caliper int he wrong position, the piston is now too far out.  So i need to take it apart and push the pistong back which fromt he Clymers seems to be a pain int he ass. 

While I'm taking it apart, I figure changing the pads would be a good idea as they wre pretty close to being toast.  Does anyone have any suggestion on pads?  Should i try a performance type pad or would the ones I'd get at the dealer be as good. 

Thanks!

Not a big deal to push pistons back it. I will twist the caliper against the rotor or use a flat between the pads. Slow firm pressure will move the pistons.

As for pads, I prefer a less aggressive pad than what the front has.

oh....so you don't have to remove that caliper 'cap' thing and remove pins (as indicated in the clymers) to push the piston back?  That's only to change the pads?

I would assume you should still open the resevoir though right?