News:

Need a manual?  Buy a Clymer manual Here

Main Menu

Won't start with choke on full

Started by blitzo, May 31, 2008, 01:32:12 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

blitzo

I took apart my left handle bar switch box and have now ran into a problem with the choke.  I made sure I put the switch box back together properly.  My bike will not start with the choke on full, it will putter then die, if I give it throttle it is good to go.  If I start with the switch some where in the middle or turn it fully off it will fire up.  When idling the engine and moving the choke switch it seems that the choke gets turned off in the fully on position. For example I will get higher revs with the choke 3/4 on the I do with the choke fully on.  Also idling with the choke fully on sometimes kills the engine.  Any one have any suggestions?

starwalt

#1
Are you certain the choke cable housing is not moving when applying the choke?

From full on to full off, the cable only moves the mechanism on the carbs about 1/2 inch.

Also, if you have rotated the entire assembly, you may have altered the adjustment.

From the right side of the bike, looking at the carbs, you should see the spring of the choke slider forward of the carb cap at the top of the carb before the intake boot. Move the choke lever and watch for the movement of the slider.
-=Doug......   IT ≠ IQ.

God save us from LED turn signal mods!

Get an Ebay GS value  HERE.

1990 GS running, 1990 GS work-in-progress, 1990 basket case.
The trend here is entropy

starwalt

A picture is worth....

My Carb rework

The choke cable is coming in from the top and the slider is evident on it.
-=Doug......   IT ≠ IQ.

God save us from LED turn signal mods!

Get an Ebay GS value  HERE.

1990 GS running, 1990 GS work-in-progress, 1990 basket case.
The trend here is entropy

blitzo

Well I can confirm the the cable is moving and not the housing.  Also the choke is being pulled as normal.  I don't think this would have been caused by messing up the adjustment, it sure seems like it though considering I took the switch apart and then had the problem.  Seems like something is in the fuel or maybe I am getting a weak spark maybe?

beRto

Here in Vancouver we are finally seeing nicer weather, and that means less choke is required to get my bike started. Maybe you are seeing similar temperature effects?

On the other hand, it seems suspicious that you would have choke problems immediately after messing around with the choke cable housing... I would definitely double check the choke cable housing/cable/plunger before looking for spark problems.

blitzo

So lets say it is nice weather out and the bike has even been running so the engine is warm.  If you start the bike with the choke fully on should it fire right away? Or does it well choke it out?   Also would that make sense that if I start it on full choke and give it throttle it runs fine?  It seems if I was choking it out that giving it throttle would also kill it.

beRto

Quote from: blitzo on May 31, 2008, 09:53:27 PM
So lets say it is nice weather out and the bike has even been running so the engine is warm.  If you start the bike with the choke fully on should it fire right away? Or does it well choke it out?   Also would that make sense that if I start it on full choke and give it throttle it runs fine?  It seems if I was choking it out that giving it throttle would also kill it.

If the bike is warm, you should re-start it with the choke OFF. If you open the choke the bike will have problems starting or will run very rich.

Opening the throttle allows some air into the engine. This is probably helping to get back the enrichment provided by the open choke.

blitzo

Maybe that is what is happening.  I will do try again in the morning and see what I come up with.

SMF spam blocked by CleanTalk