Hard to say, a slight amount of water could have seeped past the rings and found it way into the cases but if there was plenty of oil in there it would be insignificant. I would be prepared to take a chance on the bottom end.....with fresh oil and filter and another change in say 500 miles to get any foreign bits out. The damage has been caused while the bike stood, but the question remains, why was it stood?

Take off the pan and see what the thing looks like. Water in the CC can cause rust yes, however if the motor was not run pumping the water with pressure into the bearings, you wont have rust there. My thought is to clean the lower 1/2 without the pan (engine shops have hotsy - a brand name of hot solvent spray cleaning machine) and then tooth brush the surfaces with rust if any ... BTW they clean the things with water ... pressure washer.
Take off all the rest, starter, alternator, ignition plate, all of it ...
Top end - you are definetly looking at a bore ... my GR wasn't 1/2 as bad and I still ended with it at the clearance limit, 24 thou on 1 and 12 thou on the other.
Cool.
Buddha.

Well when I drained the oil to start tearing things apart the oil looked brand new, like the seller had changed it recently.  So unfortunately I won't be able to tell from that.  With and inspection light am can see many things but nothing seem to have rusted below the piston.  As for the machinist, and tolerance limits, can anybody post the limits these cylinders can be overbored?  I'm just wondering if it might be cheaper to buy a new cylinder wall and reuse the stock pistons instead of buying over sized pistons to match the bore?

I think I'm going to take my chances with the bottom end mainly because the lack of engine stand to be able to work on both the top and bottom end of the engine at the same time, and because judging by sight and sound it seems to be okay.  I appreciate all your comments and input and I will make sure to keep everyone up-to-date with the progress.  Now I need to do some research as to where I can get this thing worked on.  I wonder if the MMI does this kind of work?

Thanks for all your input guys!

Nick

really dont NEED a stand, can always use a table of some sort

Quote from: utgunslinger13 on June 15, 2008, 09:24:29 AM
can anybody post the limits these cylinders can be overbored?  I'm just wondering if it might be cheaper to buy a new cylinder wall and reuse the stock pistons instead of buying over sized pistons to match the bore?

Manufacturing tolerances Service limits (taken from factory service manual and quoted in mm)

Piston/cylinder clearance 0.05-0.06. Service limit 0.120
Cylinder bore 74.00-74.015. Service limit 74.08
Piston diam` 73.945-73.960. Service limit 73.88 (measure at a point 15mm above the skirt end)
Cylinder distortion 0.10

Ask if you need dims relating to rings etc

PS Mixing and matching pistons and cylinders is not good practice, particularly when its a combination of old and new parts.

OK, I've checked a couple places locally I'm just not sure how to decide between places.  I might just wait till my clymers manual comes in the mail and take the manual in with the cylinder to have it checked.

I'm a little confused as to how I would sit the engine on a table and still take the bottom end off?

Quote from: utgunslinger13 on June 15, 2008, 01:16:49 PM
OK, I've checked a couple places locally I'm just not sure how to decide between places.  I might just wait till my clymers manual comes in the mail and take the manual in with the cylinder to have it checked.

I'm a little confused as to how I would sit the engine on a table and still take the bottom end off?

Cylinder head-studs would have to come out first, then you could knock up a rough cradle/support arrangement out of some 2x4 offcuts.

Not really worth it IMO, but I'm getting antsy not working on anything waiting to find a machine shop so its not out of the question that I dig in deeper!  If I do, I'll make sure to post pictures.

You could get a used set of cylinders and pistons here or ebay.Have the cylinders honed, install new piston rings,pins and clips.I posted a link a page or 2 back about over boring to a 541cc.

Here's da link just incase you missed it.   http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=14401.0

yeah I seen the link but I would like to keep it as stock as possible.  What would be my best option?  Have my current (and extremely torn up) cylinders overbored with oversized pistons, or to buy a new set of cylinder and pistons?  A couple posts before this someone mentioned not a good idea to mix and match new and used parts, would it be a bad idea just to pick up a new cylinder and reuse the current pistons?  I am interested in getting this done right and I do have 600 dollars set aside to get this running right now, so buying all new is not that big of a deal to me, but if I could do it for cheaper then I would obviously chose that option!

So what would be my best option?
1.) Keep my stock cylinders and overbore them for oversized pistons
2.) Purchase a used cylinder and have it honed to fit my old pistons
3.) Spend the real money and buy new cylinder and new pistons

I have no clue on prices, so any ideas?

Thanks,

Nick

Honing is around $30 and an over bore with a finish hone is around $90 to $120.Depends on the shop.If you're thinking of trying a hone and rering,I'd get new pistons.It'd just be to much trouble to clean the old ones up.

I'd do used cylinders with the pistons that came from them.I'd hone the cylinders and install new rings.

Now if thats the case, where would I pick up a set of pistons and cylinders?  You don't happen to have a good one lying around do you?

Thanks,

Nick

I don't but there was a reputable guy on ebay selling everything.I believe the cylinders were $25 and pistons were $15 each.

DAMN! Links? Any idea of his name? I've searched for gs500 on ebay but I didn't come across any pistons/cylinders?! 

Thanks,

Nick

This is not the guy I was originally speaking of his auction ended saturday night.This is what I found searching for gs500,gs500e, and gs500f.



Cylinders.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/suzuki-89-00-gs500-gs-500-cylinders-cylinder-gs500e_W0QQitemZ130220218544QQihZ003QQcategoryZ10066QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem



Cylinders with pistons.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/suzuki-91-gs500-gs-500-cylinders-and-pistons-cylinder_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ10066QQihZ002QQitemZ120177488849QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

You can mix and match new and old and random sheite ... just make them all right for where you are using them. here is the most important thing after you do that. the engine needs a full and complete break in type useage. 2K miles ... the problem usually comes in cos racers mix and match stuff all the time, night before a race, thrashing to get it back together, borrowing stuff from anyone anything that will fit. Then they just run the thing in the race. Then they say Ohhhh mix and match is bad. I've seen people swap cam towers and race it right after and gall and tear up the cam bearing. These parts all wear together, you are supposed to wear them in each time you disturb them.
Cool.
Buddha.

Well I emailed both of those selling asking for pics inside the cylinder walls, I want to make sure they are in good condition before I buy another POS cylinder!

Not the best pictures in the world, but they seem to look good to me. Any opinions?