Bike is FLOODING and idle hangs WAYYY high..Turned into damaged engine internals

Started by lewismug, July 02, 2008, 08:58:28 AM

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lewismug

I thought the problems were gone.  After the bike sat for two weeks, I was experiencing the same problems.  Rode it a bit and they seemed to go away.  Now they're back with a vengeance.  Had to drive the Audi this morning because the bike decided to flood when I tried to start it.  Couldn't wait an hour to try again, so I had to leave it in the garage.  During the two weeks it was parked, no-one touched the bike.  It stayed locked in my garage.  Seems as if the problems just came out of nowhere.  Any clues as to what could be causing this and where I should start first.  I freakin' hate working on f%$king carbs with a passion.  Put seafoam in the gas yesterday right before a fill up, but it didn't help a thing.  When the idle hangs, it's hanging right around the 4 or 5k mark.  If I get the bike down to around 2k by bogging it with the brakes at a stop, the idle stays around 1200 or so, but as soon as I rev a little, it hangs right back up there.  This is making me want to get rid of the damn bike altogether.  The knock that was there has disappeared now though.

lowcountrygs

I had the same thing happen to me, same symptoms out of nowhere. I cleaned the carbs very well, put new fuel lines in, and a new fuel filter. Also the throttle cable seemed to be a little kinked. I don't know what exactly the problem was but it was fixed by one of those things.
1996 GS500, Wileyco muffler, K&N Lunchbox, 40 pilots + 150 mains, 15t sprocket, R1 tail light, progressive fork springs

lewismug

I guess I'll pull the carbs this evening.  I despise messing with those damn things.  I would rather take a bath in brake fluid.   :mad:

lewismug

Anyone else have any suggestions?  I'm at home now and am about to go out in the garage to begin tearing it down.  Would love to have it back running so I can ride it tomorrow.

mach1

check your float high. brake fluid is nothing try taking a shower in skydrol, ive done it and taking a shower only makes it worse
04Gs,fenderectomy,V&H Full exhaust,Vortex clip-ons.13t front sprocket.,Uni Pods,22.5/65/147.5,Katana rear shock,M-1 metzeler 150 rear tire,Yamaha R6 Tail-SOLD
79 Honda CM185t-In restoration mode with this bike.DEAD slammed 2003 Honda Shadow 600, matte black everything 18inch ape hangers

lewismug

checked the float height, it was fine.  Removed air filter and looked @ the butterflies on both carbs.  they are closed no matter what position the choke is in.  Shouldn't they be open when it isn't choked?  No matter what position the throttle or choke is in, they won't open.  will I break something if I try to force them open?  which way do they open?

mach1

no the butterflys are closed at closed throttle and they opne when gas is given. try to follow them back to the throttle and look for kinks or something that can catch the cable causing it to not move. Dont force it. as far as the flooding goes can you be move specific. does it n ot kick over after a crank fest caue that can flood the motor(could be a low battery). as far as the hanging problem goes you could have a vac leak or a miadjusted throttle cable(bogging with clutch and brake moves the bars fixing the issue) my bike does the same thing I need to release the cluthc to lower the idle but thats fine with me im used to it carbs may be out of synce.
04Gs,fenderectomy,V&H Full exhaust,Vortex clip-ons.13t front sprocket.,Uni Pods,22.5/65/147.5,Katana rear shock,M-1 metzeler 150 rear tire,Yamaha R6 Tail-SOLD
79 Honda CM185t-In restoration mode with this bike.DEAD slammed 2003 Honda Shadow 600, matte black everything 18inch ape hangers

lewismug

#7
I'm not sure exactly what has happened, but I was turning the engine over with the starter and it locked up solid as a rock.  Pulled the plugs and looked into each hole.  On the left piston head, I can see newly exposed metal, like something has come in contact with it.  With the bike in 6th gear, I can only turn the rear wheel a short distance before it hits.  I'm thinking something major is wrong now.  I guess I'll need to pull the engine and begin the tear-down to see what has happened.  f%$k!!!!   :mad: :2guns: :mad: :2guns:

bill14224

I was going to reply and tell you to try a new throttle cable before you tear the carbs apart, but upon reading your last post I see your cam chain is probably broken and now you have smashed valves.  You have my sympathies.
V&H pipes, K&N drop-in, seat by KnoPlace.com, 17/39 sprockets, matching grips, fenderectomy, short signals, new mirrors - 10 scariest words: "I'm here from the government and I'm here to help!"

lewismug

#9
Pulled off the exhaust and looked inside to see what the valves looked like.  The left side exhaust valve is missing.  I can only assume it's sitting on top of the left piston.  Maybe I will get lucky and only need a new piston and valve.  I'm not sure if it broke anything else yet.  I've got the carbs off and the only thing connected to the engine is now the chain, the clutch cable and an electrical wire that disappears under a black cover that sits right under the carbs.  I'll pull it completely tomorrow and take the top end apart to see what all damage has occurred. 

My wife told me this morning that she was glad that I couldn't get it started this morning and had to take the car.  Sad she had been having a bad feeling about me riding for the last few days.  If this had happened while doing 80 mph on the interstate, it would have been bad I think.  Woman's intuition?  I dunno, but this is freaky as hell!

I'm trying to find my damn camera so I can take a few pics of the missing valve.  When I find it, I'll post a few so you guys can share my pain.  I had a big ride planned for this weekend too.   :cry:  :mad:   :cry:

ben2go

Quote from: bill14224 on July 02, 2008, 06:21:33 PM
I was going to reply and tell you to try a new throttle cable before you tear the carbs apart, but upon reading your last post I see your cam chain is probably broken and now you have smashed valves.  You have my sympathies.

The GS has a non inerference engine the valves won't contact the pistons.Sounds like it may have broken a valve keeper and dropped the valve in the cylinder.I'd pull the head.
PICS are GONE never TO return.

lewismug


ben2go

PICS are GONE never TO return.

lewismug

Is it possible to pull the head with the engine still in the bike, or would it just be a lot easier to pull it out?  You think I may need a new head?  You can see a small portion of it has broken off right where the valve comes through.  This is more than likely the knocking I heard last week.  What causes something like this to happen?  I've already priced a new piston from bikebandit.com.  They're wanting around $80.00 for the piston assembly which includes only the piston and rings.  Connecting rod is seperate and would be another $76.00.  The cylinder head is $642.00, almost as much as I paid for the bike back in Feb.

ben2go

Quote from: lewismug on July 02, 2008, 07:49:17 PM
Is it possible to pull the head with the engine still in the bike, or would it just be a lot easier to pull it out?  You think I may need a new head?  You can see a small portion of it has broken off right where the valve comes through.  This is more than likely the knocking I heard last week.  What causes something like this to happen?  I've already priced a new piston from bikebandit.com.  They're wanting around $80.00 for the piston assembly which includes only the piston and rings.  Connecting rod is seperate and would be another $76.00.  The cylinder head is $642.00, almost as much as I paid for the bike back in Feb.

The head can be repaired.New valve guide and lap the valves back in.As long as there was no damage  to the rod you should be able to replace the piston and rings.I would have the cylinders honed.I'm not sure if the head can come off with the engine still in the frame.Maybe possible to find a good used head for around $100.
PICS are GONE never TO return.

lewismug

Thanks for the help and advice Ben.  I'll pull the engine and head tomorrow.  I'll be sure and take plenty of pics of the damage.  Any of you know how well bikebandit does with shipping parts out?  Are they fairly quick, or slow?

ben2go

Quote from: lewismug on July 02, 2008, 08:18:31 PM
Thanks for the help and advice Ben.  I'll pull the engine and head tomorrow.  I'll be sure and take plenty of pics of the damage.  Any of you know how well bikebandit does with shipping parts out?  Are they fairly quick, or slow?

Fairly quick for me to get things from bikebandit.No problems so far.Check your head and see if you need the keepers and seat.Looks like a washer and 2 wedges.I would replace them anyway since they dropped the valve.
PICS are GONE never TO return.

The Buddha

You had a valve stay open and get clobbered by the piston. Happened to one clown on a savage. Head, and piston work on his, but a savage bottom end is 100 times what a GS one is, as well and the fact that its cases are thicker, narrower and split vertically instead of horizontally (no idea what difference it makes though) ... but its better built.
Cool.
Buddha.
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utgunslinger13

bikebandit.com is awesome in shipping, I get parts within 3 days and prices are pretty decent.
Check out my current project build:

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=41982.0

lewismug

Well, I guess I'm really lucky that I wasn't driving it when it occurred.  If the engine would have actually been running when it happened, I think it would have really torn a lot more up and I would more than likely be looking for a whole new engine.

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