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Getting my Laser Deeptone in about a week

Started by Bluehaze, August 15, 2008, 02:31:47 PM

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Bluehaze

Ok guys..
Laser Deeptone Exhaust is what i am getting. I believe this is a full replacement and  i will not need to cut anything or weld anything..basically take the old exhaust off and put in the new one.  This is strickly a question about the EXHAUST and nothing to do with rejetting..that is another subject i would not like to discuss in this area.


For those who have replaced the stock exhaust.  Is it easy to do. looking at the  manual from clymer up to year 89 it show basically 4 screws at the engine area and 1 screw next to the rear tire.. Is that it?? It sound so easy i am almost leery that this will not turn out good if i do it myself. Its never that easy.

Thanks for the input.

-Bluehaze
2008 GS500F Modification: Fenderectomy. Additional LED Brake Lights. Blue Underlighting Kit. Grills on the Fairing. K&N Drop in Filter. Laser Deeptone 2-1 Exhaust. DynoJet Kit. Rear Kellerman Turn Signal. 14T sprocket. Carbon Fiber Race pegs. SM2 handlebar. 06 R6 Rear Suspension.

beRto

You are correct - replacing a complete exhaust consists of removing the four (4) bolts at the exhaust manifold and the one (1) bolt on the frame (i.e. near the right passenger footpeg).

It's a simple process... unless you snap one of those manifold bolts  :o :o
I suggest applying some penetrating lubricant (PB Blaster, or equivalent) in advance and letting it soak for a day or two.

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=29460.0
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=33199.0
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=13775.0

Mdow

94 GS500E AKA the Atomic Barny

DoD#i

+1 on the PB Blaster - just spray a little on each bolt when it's hot for a few days, let it sit there overnight, and hit it again after riding again. Also make sure to clean the crud out of the bolt heads - they catch junk from the front tire and this can make it difficult to fully insert the 6mm allen wrench.

Have new exhaust gaskets in hand. You'll need to gently pry the old ones out of the head.

Use hi-temp anti-seize on the bolts when re-assembling.

Don't overdo the torque when re-assembling - they are steel bolts in an aluminum head.

It was a tiny bit tricky to keep the new exhaust gaskets in place and get the exhaust positioned where it would hold them. You can't just pivot up from the rear attachment bolt - need to get the headers in place and then get it on the rear bolt. Would be easier with a helper, but manageable without.
1990 GS500EL - with moderately-ugly paintjob.
1982 XJ650LJ -  off the road for slow repairs
AGATT - All Gear All The Time
"Ride a motorcycle.  Save Gas, Oil, Rubber, Steel, Aluminum, Parking Spaces, The Environment, and Money.  Plus, you get to wear all the leather you want!"
(from DoD#296)

Bluehaze

Thanks for the input.  Now its just a matter of getting  my cahones a little larger so i can have confidence unsrewing things from the engine.  I am assuming that spray you guys are talking about will be stock at autozone or the likes?  Can you spray too much? 
2008 GS500F Modification: Fenderectomy. Additional LED Brake Lights. Blue Underlighting Kit. Grills on the Fairing. K&N Drop in Filter. Laser Deeptone 2-1 Exhaust. DynoJet Kit. Rear Kellerman Turn Signal. 14T sprocket. Carbon Fiber Race pegs. SM2 handlebar. 06 R6 Rear Suspension.

DoD#i

1990 GS500EL - with moderately-ugly paintjob.
1982 XJ650LJ -  off the road for slow repairs
AGATT - All Gear All The Time
"Ride a motorcycle.  Save Gas, Oil, Rubber, Steel, Aluminum, Parking Spaces, The Environment, and Money.  Plus, you get to wear all the leather you want!"
(from DoD#296)

sledge

Quote from: beRto on August 15, 2008, 03:24:28 PM
It's a simple process... unless you snap one of those manifold bolts  :o :o

Famous last words eh Berto  :laugh:

Buy a BIG can of Penetrant spray and squirt it all over the bolts as suggested.........and then pray hard to the motocycle gods before you attempt to remove them  ;). Use a good quality Hex-key or a hex-bit and a ratchet and do it with the engine hot. If it feels like its not going to move dont force it. You might shear the bolt head or strip the thread in the block and earn yourself a one-way ticket up sh**-creek.

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