My daughter got the '08 up to the 600 mile service interval.  Its going into the dealer anyway for replacement fareing (the OE has a minor flaw that the dealer insisted upon replacing).  However, it was the holiday weekend and we had some more riding to do.  I showed her how to clean the chain with WD-40 and then relube.  The chain was a bit slack so I showed her the index marks and we both noticed they were not equal; the left was more forward than the right, by more than 1 whole mark.  We loosened the axle nut and tightened the left adjuster and it became "just right" before indexing exactly equally with the right side again -- close, but no cigar.  So, tried to bump the right side forward -- it looks to have plenty of room to move, but no luck -- it will go back with ease and then return to its former position, but will not go foreard to match exactly the left side.  Its like the brake caliper is not letting it go forward enough.  I will have the dealer explain and reset, but what's up with that?

Also, since its going "in", should I mark a few choice screws to see if they really inspect/adjust the valves?  I will tell them about the shifter seal that crawled out and leaked (I drove it back in) and the loose cover screws I found, and that the speedo cable fell out of the instrument.  But, H377, I expect that much and more out of what is expertly dubbed a POS bike.

prs

Quote from: Pigeonroost on September 02, 2008, 07:40:07 AM
I expect that much and more out of what is expertly dubbed a POS bike.
prs

Harrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!

Jack; don't salute me, it wuz da BooDuh what downed our rides.

prs

Must be why he changed his name and went into hiding.

man, there should be a "Align your wheels the right way" thread. With pictures stuff. Then when folks worry about the almost-adjustment marks it can be linked to.

I'd doubt the dealer is going to take the time to actually adjust the valves. 3/4's of shops I've been to for shims don't know what they are, nor do they have them in stock. Soooooooooooo...

if they ain't in stock, you KNOW they're not leaving your bike on a lift till they arrive !

The dealer's "mechanic's" solution to the stubborn axle position on the right was to relax the adjuster on the left.  The oil drain bung was loose and leaking and I was not impressed.  But, of my three current motorcyles, this is the only time I have ever had one back to the dealer for any service and I am now sure that I will not do that again. 

I did get the right side of the axle to free-up by loosening the bolt and the two adjusters.  I then sat on the seat, used my feet to push the bike backward as fast as I could and then slammed on the rear brake.  On the third try, the axle was all the way forward on both sides and sliding freely.  I then adjusted it equally and it was a breeze.  I noticed that on this bike the alignment marks and notch are damn hard to see, but when adjusted to mate the same mark on both sides, the length of the adjsuters' threaded sections protruding to the rear were also equal.  The way the dealer had them and the way it was originally delivered to me, there was nearly a 1/4" difference.  Now both are exactly protruding 31/32 of an inch.  I appreciate the suggestions.

prs

I would never assume (especially on a POS ) that the rear wheel is correctly aligned just because the number of threads/alignment marks/axle measurement says it is. All these could be in error due to manufacturing tolerances. I suggest setting the wheel up dead straight using a straightedge, string line etc. Then, if you always count the same number of turns on the adjusters each time it will be right.

Quote from: the mole on September 07, 2008, 12:45:59 AM
I would never assume (especially on a POS ) that the rear wheel is correctly aligned just because the number of threads/alignment marks/axle measurement says it is. All these could be in error due to manufacturing tolerances. I suggest setting the wheel up dead straight using a straightedge, string line etc. Then, if you always count the same number of turns on the adjusters each time it will be right.

agreed. yesterday i noticed mine was a little slack when i drove the wife's cage into the driveway. 20 minutes worth of cleaning and adjusting, and it's back in spec.

tools:
one torque wrench, two sockets, one breaker bar, two quarts of 10w40 (to secure the string), one length of string, and 20 minutes. wheel aligned.

and a new cotter pin.

Thanks guys!  You are absolutely correct!  I noticed the link OhGood posted for another inquirer about the alignment trick.  Sweet!  I will do that before it is ridden again -- may be a day or two.  I will report back.  It was folly of me to assume the frame to swingarm geometry would be true enough to allow such.  I did make a crude eye-ball estimate of alignment between the rear cog and front cog by lying on the floor and sighting rear to front along the bottom of the drive chain loop.  That looked good.  The rear cog teeth were also well centered in the rollers -- the front being almost imposible to see without removing the side cover ( I am lazy).  Also, like I said, the little hard to see notches lined-up just right side to side too when the bolts were even.

If it should occur that the front wheel to rear wheel alignment and alignment of rear cog to front cog disagree -- which is more important?  That is, if I use the monofiliment alignement technique and tweek it up just right, but then notice he rear cog is them a bit out of skelter with the fr0nt cog; then do I go about with the chain out of alignment or do I give precident to the chain alignment, or do I split the difference and go about with both a bit out of skelter?

prs

I've had no problem with using the alignment marks on the swingarms on my two GS's (97&02) for 140k GS500 miles.  The index plates with the notches have a bit too much clearance so they must be biased in the same direction, just tap the bottom of them forward with a wood block which turns the left one clockwise and the right one counterclockwise and brings them into alignment with each other.  Tightening the axle nut tends to rotate the left index plate clockwise so it remains in position.  Adjustments are made with the axle nut snugged down so things remain in place and the adjuster plates remain tight against the rear of the swingarm.

I get the rear wheel into proper alignment each time I replace the chain and keep it there and just pull back with the adjusters by moving equal turns on each side for chain adjustment.  Wheel can be R&R without loosening the adjusters for tire changes. 

Riding the bike is then proof of good alignment.  If the rear wheel isn't aligned straight ahead the front wheel will also be turned a bit in the same direction as the rear when the bike is going straight ahead and the bike will be running doggy down the road. Further correction is then made but rarely needed.

Of course I was just kidding with the    above,  the GS is a budget bike and not a particularly great one.  It's a very good one though and there was nothing else like it on the US market thru the 02 naked model.  I prefer naked bikes and have only had naked bikes,  no need to mess around with a bunch of plastic covering it.  If I need to buy one more I might consider buying a F model and converting it to naked but most likely I'd settle for a Ninja 500.

The GS500 requires no rocket science (or string:-) to maintain it, it's just a good simple basic bike like the 650 Bonnies of the 50's and 60's.  More of a new Bonnie than the big fat new Bonnies are and cheaper too.   

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/jcp8832/GS500vsT120.jpg

Jack; I reckon I have no troubles with it either.  I did the string check with my rear axle set as above and the alignment front to rear is spot on.  So, my little hard to see notches line-up, my threaded adjuster rod ends are equal, my chain seems ot be very straight with both sprockets, and my two tires are in alignment with one another.

prs