Just about the only way to undent a tank, is to cut into the underside and knock it out, then roll it out and then get the thing welded back in.
Then ofcourse you have to coat it.
Now what you want to do I do POR 15, though if you prefer kreem, I could switch. Only difference (I actually prefer kreem) is, POR 15 wont burn in a powdercoating oven. Kreem will. However Kreem is a lot easier to get out if you have a problem later.
Cool.
Buddha.

i actually have no preference whatsoever. i have kream-ed a tank before with moderately satisfying results. just trying to pawn off an extra tank to avoid work.

OK, so what you want me to do coat a tank and you pay me with the other tank ? OK how bad is it. How bout sending some pics to my email.
Cool.
Buddha.

dgyver, I'm thinking I'll buy the tank, have you ship it to buddha, and have him coat it.

So how much would shipping be to a.)Buddha
                                            and b.) from buddha to me (13901)?

Quote from: SmithvilleFlats on September 09, 2008, 01:20:44 PM
dgyver, I'm thinking I'll buy the tank, have you ship it to buddha, and have him coat it.

So how much would shipping be to a.)Buddha
...                                           

$18

smithville flats - I can undent it too ... better done before coating ... how much ... well depends ... I'll see it and get back to you.
Cool.
Buddha.

Payment sent to dgyver.
Buddha, let me know how and how much to pay you.
What's the turn-around time on the coating?

Got the payment. Tank boxed up and planning on shipping Monday to Buddha.

Quote from: SmithvilleFlats on September 12, 2008, 03:00:54 PM
Payment sent to dgyver.
Buddha, let me know how and how much to pay you.
What's the turn-around time on the coating?

3 weeks or so. Rain and BS gets in the way. You want POR 15 or kreem.
You want undenting. This is the general procedure. Cut a hole under the tank, put in a hammer and knock it out. Then roll it and finesse it and wiggle it and what not. Then weld it and then coat it with POR 15. the side benefit is that I can sand the rust clean and dry the tank well, that way the acid step is a lot less intrusive and may even be skipped if its a very rust free tank to start with. I can Just acetone clean and coat. I cant tell you the cost, depends on the size of the cut, but a hand sized one on average was $40 to weld up. Cutting ofcourse is free as is minimal hammering and rolling with a coating job to be paid for. More hammering extra ... rolling not included, sanding may be needed at extra cost. Battery of the tank not included.
Cool.
Buddha.

Undenting seems like more work than it's worth so I'd say don't bother.
As for POR 15 or kreem, whichever is more resilient. I'm going for longevity.

I did one just this week. Its not bad. That yellow I can just about match exactly with powdercoat. Or the older 93-94 red, yea, or black, shiny glassy black ...
Cool.
Buddha.

Gas tank should be getting to Buddha soon.

Hey, I got it earlier this week.
I am yet to even open the box, but plan on coating it later this weekend, unless you want a de denting job, which I plan to do on the blue tank I got from dgyver in a few hours.
Cool.
Buddha.

Cosmetics are not a big issue at this point, so unless it's very convenient or structurally necessary, don't bother with the dent.

Hey check this link ...

http://picasaweb.google.com/srinath.the.man/TankDeDenting#

That's the blue tank I got from dgyver.
Cool.
Buddha.

Let me know a price and how much time that would add and I'll decide

smithville Flats  by chance do you get a tank with cap if you did would you mind letting one go.

Quote from: SmithvilleFlats on September 20, 2008, 06:46:08 AM
Let me know a price and how much time that would add and I'll decide

This is $40 ... I have done enough of this to know, welding it back is $40, I'd do the rest free if POR15 after ... If I didn't coat after that I'd charge $50.
I believe it will save me time and $$ and make it easier on the tank if I sand it by hand, clean and dry it and hand paint it with por15. Then we weld in the patch and just put POR 15 on it with a brush. So work in this area saves me work in the acid etch and drying area. And if I dont acid etch, I dont have to breathe in the damn fumes ...
I cant guarantee it will be perfect, it may have a ripple or so ... nothing like a dent ... maybe a dent in reverse ... as in I knocked it too hard ... small one maybe. Its been comming out very smoooth though so far. Time - maybe an extra week max. Hard to tell, may even save some time, especially drying and curing ... However where you save is ... you can buy the worst crap tank you can find and have a 90% chance its gonna come out OK.
I didn't start on your tank yet kiddo, cos I have not found a long stretch of time to do it ... however this process can be done 5 mins at a time. Cut, let it sit, no biggie, sand ... knock ... sand ... roll ... etc etc ... 5 mins, I can run in the gar and roll it a few times get back in the house for dinner ... easy. Not like the acid crap where you have to finish the whole thing in a stretch ... and worse, it cannot rain in the time and has to be warm to hot and you have to do it outside due to fumes. BS I call.
Cool.
Buddha.

BTW one reason it works so well is cos the metal already has the stretch in it when it was hammered into place when it was made. You start with a flat sheet of metal ... and try to beat a 2 dimensional curve into it, no freaking way ... but this already has been beaten into shape, Easy. the first 3-4 blows and it restores itself almost to that original shape, progressive rolling etc etc only restores ridges and corners and other minor defects.
Cool.
Buddha.

Quote from: SmithvilleFlats on September 20, 2008, 06:46:08 AM
Let me know a price and how much time that would add and I'll decide

You need to confirm fast ... the sawzall's waiting ...
That dent may actually come out without leaving a mark and you may not even have to do more than touch up that area ... but not sure ... crease in paint sometimes makes it flake off.
Cool.
Buddha.