OK I have a 97 gs500 with 24000 miles, ever since I got it it has had idle issues, It will either not idle at all or it will hover. the deciding factor being if I pull the clutch in above or below 2500 rpms. It has the stock jets in it and a K&N lunch box. I am not sure what the A/F screw is set at. But I did synchronize the carbs.  the only way to get it to idle right is to set the choke somewhere in the middle, but this only works for a short time before I have to find the "spot" again.

Lunch box with stock jets ... what do I win ... a beersicle ... whooo hooo ...
Put a pipe on and then put 40/150/1 washer and 3 turns ... and clean the carb too if it looks iffy.
Cool.
Buddha.

can I do the rejet with stock exhaust, or should I just go to stock air filter. and if so how many turns?

Lunchbox and stock pipe is a little hard to get tuned. i dunno who has done it and how it works.
A stock airbox and paper filter with stock pipe works well, and you do 40/125/3 turns 1 washer with that. Ofcourse set float height and synch in all cases.
Cool.
Buddha.

ok I am a little confused on where this washer goes, should I already have it considering the carbs are stock? I think I am going to go back to stock air filter for now.
thanks matt

Quote from: stompy on September 12, 2008, 11:29:24 PM
ok I am a little confused on where this washer goes, should I already have it considering the carbs are stock? I think I am going to go back to stock air filter for now.
thanks matt

1) remove the two screws that hold the black plastic cap on top of the carbs. there is spring tension, so expect it to push off as you remove the last screw.

2) gently pull up on the black plastic cap, keeping an eye on that loooong spring so nothing gets lost.

3) gently pull up on the vacuum slide (it's "D" shaped) that is connected to the black rubber vacuum diaphram.

4) turn the vacuum slide upside down on a clean cloth, and the needle should fall out.

5) gently pull the 1/4" plastic spacer from the needle.

6) install one or two #4 stainless steel washers on the needle on the needle, next to the C clip.

7) replace the plastic spacer.

insure that nothing has been lost (OR FOUND!) in the vacuum slide and replace the needle with it's new #4 washer into the vacuum slide.

9) gently put a small screwdriver into the TOP of the vacuum slide to hold the needle straight and replace the vacuum slide into the carb.

10) gently replace the vacuum cap, vacuum cap screws, and all the other mess you took off to get to the carbs.

Note: don't push too hard on the screws while addressing the vacuum caps. You intake pipes take the entire load of force, and they're finicky things.

Like ohgood said. Plus be careful not to lose the tiny o-ring when you lift the black plastic tops off the carb body.  They're under the vacuum cap and ez to lose if you don't know they're in there.

Good luck.

cool, all work is done and it runs great!!!! thanks all for the help.
(back to stock air box)

Quote from: The Buddha on September 12, 2008, 08:37:21 PM
Lunchbox and stock pipe is a little hard to get tuned. i dunno who has done it and how it works.

In a pre-2001, I'm not sure.  For a 3-circuit carb, 20/65/140 is the bomb, no other changes (ie no needle shim, etc), works great.  40/140 should work in the pre-01, but I think you'd have the dreaded midrange flat spot.