ya i know tighten your axle bolt but i have tryed 2 man grunts and i have tryed 30 man grunts it keeps moving about every month i have to losen the axle and slide the right side forward just a bit the left side never moves and the right side always does.  its done this ever since i got the bike.  about ever 400 miles i have to do it its kinda getting old.

any idea?

is that a race set of adjuster or somthing i can install that locks the adj into place not just using axle tension to hold it?

Quote from: Mdow on September 22, 2008, 11:06:26 AM
ya i know tighten your axle bolt but i have tryed 2 man grunts and i have tryed 30 man grunts it keeps moving about every month i have to losen the axle and slide the right side forward just a bit the left side never moves and the right side always does.  its done this ever since i got the bike.  about ever 400 miles i have to do it its kinda getting old.

any idea?

is that a race set of adjuster or somthing i can install that locks the adj into place not just using axle tension to hold it?

the adjuster has nothing to do with axle fastening. it's for ease of wheel alignment only, and should -not- be considered a securing device.

if you tighten your axle nut (after alignment) to the proper torque setting, it will not move. ever. never ever ever ever.

if you've over torqued the nut, and pulled the threads the nut and possibly axle are useless. this could be why it moves over time. not safe.

2 cents

As Ohgood says, there are two likely problems:

1)  You're not applying enough torque to the nut.

2)  The axle threads are damaged, jamming the nut.

OR #3,

Stop dumping the clutch at 10k RPM trying to do wheelies.   

Or the spacer between the cush drive bearing and the left wheel bearing is missing and the right wheel bearing is failing causing the axle to become loose and slip back on the right side.  Happened to me.

If no parts are missing and the axle nut is tight it will remain tight forever.

The rear wheel bearings are collapsing, that's what is causing the adjustment to go out as soon as you tighten the chain. Get the rear wheel off and down to the dealers for a new bearing quick.

its only the right side adjster is sliding i tried tightening it to a good amount and it moved so every time i have been tightning it further and still not much luck.  last time i got a 1/2 wrench on it and was alittle mean and it seemed to stay better but its moved again.

is their any adjesters that will lock in place more then just the axle nut?

Quote from: Mdow on September 22, 2008, 04:32:29 PM
is their any adjesters that will lock in place more then just the axle nut?

No, that's not what adjusters are for. You need to either torque your axle nut to the right setting or replace the bearings.

Quote from: fred on September 22, 2008, 05:33:12 PM

Quote from: Mdow on September 22, 2008, 04:32:29 PM
is their any adjesters that will lock in place more then just the axle nut?

No, that's not what adjusters are for. You need to either torque your axle nut to the right setting or replace the bearings.

Faulty wheel bearings alone won't cause the axle to loosen if properly tightened, there must be something like a missing spacer so that the solid metal to metal clamping thru the bearing inner races and the spacers is not complete.  I had a bad wheel bearing plus a missing spacer when I had the axle slipping problem.  Either spacer 9 or spacer 13 missing will cause the bearing failure problem, I got my 02 GS with spacer 9 missing.  Appearantly lost during a tire change.

http://images.powersportsnetwork.com/fiche/images/Suzuki/2001/Motorcycles/2102_52.gif

WOOT your my hero i know for a fact number 9 is missing.  when i did my bandit 400 rear wheel swap i thought it was odd that their was not a spacer in their but when i pulled the GS wheel off there wasn't a spacer their eather so i figured that how it was soposed to be.

YOUR MY HERO haha i would have never realy thought about a spacer like that.  i checked my wheel bearings when i put the wheel in and htey felt pretty good

Wheel bearings will have gone the way of the dodo if the wheel was tightened without the captive spacer sleeve in between ... they may feel fine, but they should be swapped out.
Cool.
Buddha.

ya i was planing on doing them this winter but no funds to do it right now

Let me guess, you're gonna knock the bearings out - OK just 1 is needed, put the sleeve back in and hammer it back and hope it works ... winter is next week ... just drop a $7-8 set of bearings in it ...
Cool.
Buddha.

8 bucks? bike bandit wants 40 for the two wheel bearings and crushdrive bearing

Cush drive bearing is $$$ but not as vital as the wheel bearing. Its not a real load carrying bearing, that whole rubber cush thingy insulates it form direct shocks and loads.
The spacer was in the cush drive bearing right ... only the wheel didn't have the spacers right ...

Then cush bearing will be OK, that dan bearing was $22 by itself.
I am near about certain I can get you the 2 wheel bearings for $10 or less and shipping will be the biggest $$$ really, prolly $5 for that. But, start calling your bearing and power transmission places. motion industries, bearing distributors, power transmission places, diesel repair shops ... the bearings are like bread, you can buy it in africa and it will work just the same. 6303 ZZ or whatever its called ... get the right part number.
Cool.
Buddha.

Quote from: Mdow on September 23, 2008, 10:00:06 AM
8 bucks? bike bandit wants 40 for the two wheel bearings and crushdrive bearing

If spacer #9 is missing the cush drive bearing and the right wheel bearing are greatly side loaded when the axle nut is tightened, the left wheel brg is not side loaded. My right wheel bearing had failed but the cush drive bearing seemed OK so I just replaced the 2 wheel bearings and spacer #9.  I still have the original cush brg with over 64k total miles on it now, my brg failure was at about 40k miles.

You can probably get by just replacing the right side wheel brg and spacer #9, check the other 2 brgs carefully.  If you're not going to replace the left wheel brg don't remove it.  It could be damaged driving it out.

ya their arn't shops like that here. im in a tiny town. i think we have an ammco around her someplace. no diesel shops that i know of only one motorcycle shop and they are pretty much ATV and dirt bikes

im just going to do all the bearing cause i know the bandit wheel sat for over 3 years before i got it and its a 91 wheel so ill just do it all this winter and be done with it

Oh ... finally the pic loaded ... if #9 is awol, all your bearings would be OK, none of them was side loaded ... and the cush drive beairng isn't even being used. So GSJack was on the nose as always, I was just talking blindly ...  
Just put that in and you're home free.
Cool.
Buddha.

Hey Mdow,

I was looking over your B4 wheel swap: http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=43493.0

Wondering if installing that spacer will affect any of the clearances or create any issues.  Please let us know.  I've got a B4 wheel ready to install and was gonna follow the directions in your thread.

Good luck.

My wheel did the same thing and chain would keep getting loose. It would actually start bending the backing plate for the adjuster. I tried tighter, I tried looser but it all stopped when I actually started using a torque wrench. It seems my bike, at least, only likes about 50 ft lbs. spec is around 42 i believe (feel free to correct me if Im wrong guys) But 50 is what works best to stay put on mine.... no more no less.

Quote from: ATLRIDER on September 23, 2008, 03:19:26 PM
Hey Mdow,

I was looking over your B4 wheel swap: http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=43493.0

Wondering if installing that spacer will affect any of the clearances or create any issues.  Please let us know.  I've got a B4 wheel ready to install and was gonna follow the directions in your thread.

Good luck.

no cause its inside the crush drive the only thing its going to do is keep the pressure on all the bearings i will be ordering that spacer and ill post up here if it fixes the problem but it sounds like it should cause with out it you can't really get the swing arm to pinch everything tight cause your pressing in on bearings not spacers so their is some give in them (aka destroying my bearings)

i love my wheel swap tho feel free to PM me with any questions

o just buy the GSRX rear caliper arm i got mine in a week or two ago clearance is fine with it and its ALUM and shinny and i got mine for i think 16 bucks def better then bending the stock arm