why not just do a tear/rebuild of your current engine?     i'm sure you can do upgrades etc.   almost every jap car has a huge aftermarket niche. 

A rebuild of the factory motor, or replacement with the same motor will always be less expensive than a swap to something else in a car like yours. Engine swaps are very involved and unless you have mad fabrication skills your car could be out of commission for months. Trying to sort out everything that goes with an engine swap can easily be overwhelming and extremely expensive. Think about it, likely factory drivelines/ drive axles can't be re-used, will your transmission mate to what you have in mind? If not, you need a transmission and then have to figure out engine/transmission mounts. Then there is fuel delivery, and all the electrical issues. How are you gonna run the speedo? these are just a few of the hurdles you would need to clear if you want to do an engine swap. Working in the service department at a Honda dealer- you wouldn't believe some of the jacked up attempts at engine swaps I have seen, even on swaps as well documented as a b16 in a Civic. Also, you better know everyhting about your car when you are done because you will have a hard time finding a technician that will want anything to do with your Frankenstein car. That's the opinion of this ASE certified Master Automobile Technician anyway.

my opinion is htis i AINT GOT HTE $$$$$$$$ to properly finish mine. as far as rebuilding the 13b. it is NOT economically feasible. nor are donor engines available ( hell i wish they were, but along im lookin at around 400 for injectors alone. not counting everything esle im sure of, and probnably otehr costs ive yet to discover 

i think i'm going to agree with bikejunkie on this one. if you can't afford to rebuld your current engine, i doubt you can afford to swap a completely different engine. but hey, that's just my opinion. it's your cash buddy, spend it how you chose. 

Quote from: jserio on October 06, 2008, 09:48:24 PM
i think i'm going to agree with bikejunkie on this one. if you can't afford to rebuld your current engine, i doubt you can afford to swap a completely different engine. but hey, that's just my opinion. it's your cash buddy, spend it how you chose. 

if only it were cheap to build a rotary. but im not finding this to be so. and it being my only car atm. it has to be done. im driving a loaner now. 

if both options are too expensive then why not a third option. buy another cheap beater car tha runs to get you around until either you come accross something better you can afford or you get the cash to get your car fixed. 

Quote from: jserio on October 06, 2008, 10:42:19 PM
if both options are too expensive then why not a third option. buy another cheap beater car tha runs to get you around until either you come accross something better you can afford or you get the cash to get your car fixed. 

almost non existant atm

Damn yama sorry to hear this issue man. I remember the days of $100 beater cars, don't even register the smbitch in your name just drive it till it blows walk away and call a friend to come get you then go buy another beater. I was usually the guy that called to come pick someone up. Hell my ex-bro inlaw drove a beater for over a year one time.

Quote from: jserio on October 06, 2008, 09:48:24 PM
i think i'm going to agree with bikejunkie on this one. if you can't afford to rebuld your current engine, i doubt you can afford to swap a completely different engine. but hey, that's just my opinion. it's your cash buddy, spend it how you chose. 

Wow- you agreed with me twice in like a week! Never thought that would happen

Look for an 88-91 Honda Civic. You can find those nearly anywhere in the $1000 range (might be beat up but who cares?) Will run forever and get 35mpg all day. Those are some of the best cars Honda ever built.

damn, you said something else i agree with...am i becoming soft? 

















p.s-i've changed my mind who i'm voting for.....     

lol i can do some trading, with a buddy of mine on an 86 chevrolet 1/2 ton pickup, thing runs, smokes a bit at startup, but i can get it, sub 200.(  in trade) i mihgt go for it, while i fab the rx, and jserio, i wont be voting for that guy, and perhaps not hte other one either. but i WILL be voting. hell i might vote for my cousin ( bob barr ), hell idk atm , anyhoo back to stewin over what to put into hte maz. i think ive settled on the 350/350, gauges were given to me today, so thats taken care of. hell i can always use a gps if need be. ignition will be via a race car ig switch panel. already sourced one of those ( 5 switch, and one start button, i wlil fab and hide a hidden kill switch)

Why not just use the RX-7 ignition power supply to run the ignition?  No panel...you just put the RX-7 key in the RX-7 tumbler, turn it, and vroom...

And start shifting as much weight back as you can...you're turning a mid-engine car into a front engine car and the weight bias is going to go all the hell.  You'll need beefier springs and shocks up front and you're going to nee to brace the hell out of the engine bay.

Quote from: yamahonkawazuki on October 08, 2008, 01:08:58 AM
lol i can do some trading, with a buddy of mine on an 86 chevrolet 1/2 ton pickup, thing runs, smokes a bit at startup, but i can get it, sub 200.(  in trade) i mihgt go for it, while i fab the rx, and jserio, i wont be voting for that guy, and perhaps not hte other one either. but i WILL be voting. hell i might vote for my cousin ( bob barr ), hell idk atm , anyhoo back to stewin over what to put into hte maz. i think ive settled on the 350/350, gauges were given to me today, so thats taken care of. hell i can always use a gps if need be. ignition will be via a race car ig switch panel. already sourced one of those ( 5 switch, and one start button, i wlil fab and hide a hidden kill switch)

+bump for some common sense about the beater truck, for $200. trucks have a bazillion uses, but usually folks only make payments on them (helllllllllo, it's a f%$king TRUCK!) and never actually use the box.

what you need friend, is exactly that truck, haul your butt around, drag parts back for the rx-project, and eventually, when more common sense prevails, drag that rx-project to the next suckers house !

i don't vote, don't care. they all lie, and no matter -what- they say, they have absolulely no idea how the rest of the world lives. <---- there, beat that

I think if you want to put a 350 in an rx-7 you also may want to get acquainted with a plasma cutter- the length and size of the engine is gonna be a big problem in a lot of ways- seems like those rotary engines are fairly compact and a big v8 isn't, and neither is a Turbo 350. Have you thought about a 4.3 V6? it's basically a 350 w/ 2 cylinders cut off, but the height is still gonna be an issue. Also, you are gonna need way stiffer springs in the front to accommodate the extra weight and it likely won't handle very well anyway. Sorry to sound so negative- I'm just trying to give you an idea of what will be involved before you drop a bunch of coin on a project that may not be completable.

Also, that beater pickup is a good idea except for the tons of gas it will drink. Smoke on startup is usually an indication of worn valve stem seals/valve guides- an issue, but not a big one- just a first indication of an engine getting tired.

An SBC is about 150lbs heavier than the 13B in the car...but a vert RX-7 is anything but light anyway.  The problem is that half of the weight of the engine is in front of the crossmember...which changes a LOT.  You're going from a mid engine car with mid engine handling to a front engine car and nose-heavy handling.  Not reallly bad but it's different and it takes a lot more work to make the car handle well.

A 350 fits in the engine bay pretty good, actually, as well as does an LS1.  The engine bay is actually really forgiving.  The problem is the crossmember.  The RX crossmember does not mix well with...well...anything but a rotary engine.  Either oil pans need to be chainged or serious modification will ensue...just don't get all bent out of shape when you realize that it may actually be easier to pull the engine to change the plugs than doing it in the car...little things like that are what the big bitches are.

i did a chevy small block 350v8 swap in my 1984 Porsche 944. great engine for the price!
Go with the LT1 if u have the money, otherwise a 327 or 350.

i wish rx7 didnt break down after 100k+miles they are fun to drive

I'll point out that my second RX-7 had 225,000 miles on the original motor when I sold it...running very nice.  They need to be taken care of properly...none of this "let the oil run 10,000 miles then change it" bullshit.

Quote from: makenzie71 on October 08, 2008, 11:55:02 AM
I'll point out that my second RX-7 had 225,000 miles on the original motor when I sold it...running very nice.  They need to be taken care of properly...none of this "let the oil run 10,000 miles then change it" bullshit.

Don't you wish everyone approached basic maintenance with the same mindset?   There would be a lot more trustworthy used cars out there!  I think a lot of people buy the rx-7 and run it without any knowledge of the direct oil injection (coupled with just not changing it often enough!  ). 

Yama--I think I'd probably buy the truck if it's running decent.  It will be a pain to feed though.  I've been very blessed by my $300 '87 Accord purchase.  It too smoked a little at start when I bought it--and still continues to do so 6 years later. 

Anything when properly maintained will last for a very very long time.  Most people are lazy and dont take care of shaZam!.

Quote from: shiznizbiz on October 08, 2008, 05:29:19 PM
Anything when properly maintained will last for a very very long time.  Most people are lazy and dont take care of shaZam!.

177,500k oncurrentmill. ig switchisbad, .lol i bought a basket case. i think i re visited swap idea and am goin 4.3/autocasue most of those autos will take a 350 directly