Lately i've been thinking about using a AEM wideband 02 sensor which would display AF/R on a small gauge mounted near the gauges on the bike. Some custom fabrication would have to be done like Drilling into the exhuast and creating a bung for the sensor to mount into and then tapping into the bikes electrical harness

     http://www.cimotorsports.net/motor-sport-products/aem-uego-universal-wideband.html

       Bosch 02 sensor included!

24 Color-coded LED display lights provide immediate reference to engine's air/fuel ratio (AFR) or Lambda

Integrated three-digit display reveals AFR or Lambda in real time

User-programmable 0-5v analog output included for use with data loggers and ANY engine management system

Ideal AFR monitoring tool for carbureted applications and engine dynamometers

Does not oscillate AFR like narrow band sensors

Serial data stream included for output of AFR (RS 232)

Accurate to 0.1 AFR

12 ft of cable ensures plenty of mounting room


According to this it will work as a " standalone unit" without a ECU. There is another one that uses the stock ECU on a Inline 4 bikes the chart goes as such ECU>Powercommander>wideband.


I'm wondering if  our batteries and electrical harness can support the wideband sensor   Operating Voltage: 8-18 volts, negative ground ... For use with AEM Wideband UEGO Controllers 30-2300 & 30-2301 ...

being this precise means a new problem arises:

the gs has two carburetors. which means you'll want TWO of these setups, with completely seperate exhausts. sooooo, $500+ for a light that tells you your fuel / air mixture is spot on.

well, as much as i like the idea of fuel injection and good fueling, if you did this with only one unit, you're only getting 1/2 the picture, and tuning would still mean guessing which carb was lean/rich.

O2 sensor in the pipe after the collector, read it with a digital millivolt meter. Been there done that.
Use a 92-94 chevy cavalier Or sensor, you want a 1 wire sensor with body as ground. Under .5 volt DC is lean, over .5 is rich. No need for RS 232, this is a GS, you cannot stick a lap top on the tank and go for a ride ... I used a swatch of velcro on the tank, glued velcro on my multimeter and rode it on the 407 in canada in the dead of winter to get my jetting formula.
Then I repeated it with an eliminator 1000. O2 sensor is far better than dyno to do real world tuning.
Dyno is not that sensitive to real world situations. For example the eli will actually lean in 1 cyl when hit by cross winds or you have your legs in the ram air position to the outer carbs if running K&N's. Dyno will never catch that. O2 sensor will flip in a nano second, and you'd be reading .6-.7 volts and suddenly see a .2 and right back to .6 or .7 ... and slowly it starts to emerge as a pattern.
And, 1 is enough, you put it in the header right after the 2 merge into the Y.
Cool.
Buddha.

Quote from: The Buddha on October 23, 2008, 07:15:25 AM
O2 sensor in the pipe after the collector, read it with a digital millivolt meter. Been there done that.
Use a 92-94 chevy cavalier Or sensor, you want a 1 wire sensor with body as ground. Under .5 volt DC is lean, over .5 is rich. No need for RS 232, this is a GS, you cannot stick a lap top on the tank and go for a ride ... I used a swatch of velcro on the tank, glued velcro on my multimeter and rode it on the 407 in canada in the dead of winter to get my jetting formula.
Then I repeated it with an eliminator 1000. O2 sensor is far better than dyno to do real world tuning.
Dyno is not that sensitive to real world situations. For example the eli will actually lean in 1 cyl when hit by cross winds or you have your legs in the ram air position to the outer carbs if running K&N's. Dyno will never catch that. O2 sensor will flip in a nano second, and you'd be reading .6-.7 volts and suddenly see a .2 and right back to .6 or .7 ... and slowly it starts to emerge as a pattern.
And, 1 is enough, you put it in the header right after the 2 merge into the Y.
Cool.
Buddha.

   Yeah near the header like you said would be a perfect location      Now the next questions is creating a bung on the headers obviously i'll have to weld it into place..

       

     

It has some not too uncommon threads on it ... like 3/4 inch super fine or some bs like that ... just blow a giant hole in the outside of the pipe with a torch and weld away ... inside wont work, it will hit the center stand.
Cool.
Buddha.

Oh yea, after you do all of that ... you'd need to buy 150 mains, 40 pilots, #4 washers and set your mix screw to 3 turns if you have K&N lunch box and pipe.
125 mains instead of 150 is its all stock.
Yea, but that's for later ... much much later ... for now you need to be thinking of blowing a fist sized hole in your pipe.
Yea, you need an exhaust pipe too after that ...
Cool.
Buddha.