no longer needed , sorry -
thanks
-Jay

You are insane dude. Slow down, you're  seriously going to go nuts.
I'll PM you ... scratches on cams are not much to worry about.
Cool.
Buddha.

OK brooklyn_93 post what all your problems are, pics if needed, and who did what to it in the recent past.

And scratches on the cams are not a show stopper, I had one in mine, I saw it at 15K or so, and I bought it with 8K and never opened it till 15K, so presumably it was there since 8K atleast. It was on the right intake, and I watched it till I sold it with 48K 10 years later. It never did anything ... it got a wee bit fainter with the miles, but even at 48K it was there. My theory is, it takes in oil and that oil cushions the impact, as the sharp points wear off it just gets softer amd softer and very much stops wearing. It hits the shim and shim alone, and if that shim is wearing, you remove it in a few 1000 miles and swap it out, so you're never going to ahve any other peoblems.

So, you post the problems on this thread. I can redo a head for ~100, if its beyond service I'll tell you so, but I think you're just clutching at straws ... the problem is else where and your shop cannot find it, and they are blaming anything and everything they see. I will not trust them to swap a head ... if they cannot fix a carburetor they certainly are not capable of doing head work.
You should take a deep breath and list your problems here ... there is a 1000 others who will know, some of whom will put any shop jockey to shame.
Cool.
Buddha.

did compression test ... 125 left side and 50 on right side , so we opened it up .. immediately found scarring on top ( closer to handlebars ) cam. then measured shims etc ..

yeah , im going nuts as its my only source of transportation , what do you think ?

Bike was running ok but wouldnt idle unless choked and then it ran really high rpm's. now its backfiring and losing power.
-Jay

Scarring on the cams will not make lower compression.
Shims being too thick will ... so you measured shims ... OK you didn't measure clearance ?
Then bike running OK but not idling unless choked, and then hovering rpm = very tight valves. Backfiring and losing power ... = like extremely tight valves or likely one starting to burn ...
And none of this is the cause of nor the effect of a scratched right exhaust cam.
You may need a head job, and send me the head and I'll look, cut seats, valves check seals and guides, deck it and overall service it for 100 bucks. If its needing some valves types, figure in their cost ... and you need a honest and competent mechanic to get it back together if it is indeed the head.
You need to split it carefully, else you're going to have to hone it and redo the base gasket.
And it may be none of these, and still be your carbs.
Send me those and $45 + whatever parts are broken (45 includes jet costs) ...\
You need a competent mechanic, you need this as your transportation, how about you rent a car, cos this aint gonna cut it for a while. Burning valves get worse and worse ... if it is that.
Cool.
Buddha.

Hey...my left cylinder sleave has a crack, but the the rest of the head (valves, cams, ect) are PERFECT.....if you want to go that route, talk to me.   They wont do me any good, I dont have a bottom end. (Buddha wont sell!  )

Playmemuzk - You're buyiing a motor for the left cylinder sleeve crack ... sleeve replacement, honing and re ringing and redoing the head will work far better than a new motor ... cos suzuki never checked and fitted these and they certainly didn't do a 3 angle in the head or deck it when new. A 4 stroke needs the head to be absolutely text book perfect ... else it misbehaves ...

And not that buddha doesn't want to sell ... buddha is eager not to bust his back ... and its not quite mine ...

Brooklyn_93 - your bike also doesn't have a motor problem ... in fact I can guarantee you the motor is perfectly fine ... carbs for and maybe some else ... but I am staying with BSing mechanic and carbs ...
Cool.
Buddha.

Buying a motor because the left connecting rod pin is bad and the left cylinder has a crack.   The connecting rod pin means that the crank has to be redone at 400 dollars and the cylinder sleave at another 200 and then pistons, rings, gaskets ect.  Need the new motor.  Now, because I need a new moter, and my manifold is perfect (including cams and valves), if this fella needs new cams and/or valves, mabye we should connect....   I'm not mad about your motor, s*****th, I just wanna fix my bike.... Shhhh - incognito ...

I' m sorry that motor was not mine really, I attempted to get a decision out of him, by saying ... its eating up work space and driveway space ...
There is a few on ebay ...
Cool.
Buddha.

Buddah - if possible please delete this thread - Thanks, Br0oKlyN

There is other posts here not just yours and mine. But dont worry once we stop posting it will drop off pretty rapidly.
Anyway, what is your situation.
Cool.
Buddha.

Complete parts bike being delivered to me tonight when the guy gets out of work.
OK to delete .... muzik and i have been chatting on telephone about it , ok 2 delete

Its ok it can be here. Someone else may benifit. There is plenty of useless threads on this site ... I think this rates pretty high on the useful list.

Let it be. All posts become the solely owned subsidiary of gstwin.com ... yea.

Cool.
Buddha.