Took the bike out today for a real ride for first time........starting it after 3 days on full choke, revved at like 3500 and then gradually decreased it BUT
Is it normal to take like 3-5 minutes to warmup? I reduced the choke after 1 min and it wanted to die out so I put it back on choke...this is normal right?

Concern #2 - while riding i try to rev it into over 7000 RPM in 1st, 2nd or 3rd..but it feels like it doesnt want to go there easily, is that normal? Feels like no more production over 7000 or 8000 in like 1st and 2nd....otherwise while cruising its great on response

Concern #3 - I think I was pretty much stationary and I revved my engine up to 9000ish and I heard popping noises...im sure it not backfire cuz thatwould be very loud, but it was slight popping noises (this happens on my cbr125 randomly sometimes too) what is the cause of this? Need a valve adjustment? Carb problems??

Concern #4 - Not really concerned b/c I think its normal, but the CBR125 did not smell like gas in the garage...this gs500 does, is it cuz its carburated?

Question - Does it cost money to go to the dealer and have them check the bike and see what needs service?

IN for answers.
I pick mine up in an hour! Same year.

If you just have it sit there idling, and it's chilly outside, it can take a while to warm up.  I used to start it on full choke, put on my helmet and gloves, and ride off at half-choke.  It warms up more quickly riding it gently (keeping the revs low and throttle moderate until it's warm).

Does it have hesitation, or does it just take a bit to spin up?  It's not a sportbike, so it won't rev like an I-4.  Make sure you're using full throttle if you want it to scoot.  It's got a long throttle throw.  As per Q #1, it won't rev correctly until it's warm and off of the choke.

You get a lean pop when you go offthrottle at high revs.  Why are you revving it to 9000 without moving?

How new is it?  New bikes stink, especially newly-breaking-in exhausts.  It shouldn't smell strongly of gas.  Check the fuel hoses and make sure the float heights are set correctly.

Yes, dealers will charge money to do work.    The GS500 is super-easy to work on yourself, even just off of the tutorials on this site; with a service manual, you can do pretty much anything the bike will need yourself.

Quote from: poostik on November 14, 2008, 07:52:52 AM
IN for answers.
I pick mine up in an hour! Same year.

good 4 u ... post up some pix one u get her!

The power issue sounds like your fuel mix is lean.  I know an easy fix for this, Contact Buddha.     The ONLY bike easier to work on than a GS500 that I have EVER EVER seen is a tossup between an RD350, and a CB550K. 

Normal, takes 30 seconds on full choke and another 30 seconds using the throttle to keep the RPM's up; ride off using the throttle to keep the rpm's up til fully warmed up.  Sounds like completely stock factory-lean carburetion.  There's answers in the FAQ.

#2 - Sounds like completely stock factory-lean carburetion.  Otherwise, normal; power trails off after 9.5k (trailing off sooner may be because of the factory-lean carburetion).

#3 - Normal, Sounds like completely stock factory-lean carburetion.

#4 - Could it be because you're warming it up with the choke on for longer than 1 minute, that there's an accumulation of gas in the airbox or exhaust (most likely airbox)?

Thanks for the replies

QuoteHow new is it?  New bikes stink, especially newly-breaking-in exhausts.  It shouldn't smell strongly of gas.  Check the fuel hoses and make sure the float heights are set correctly.

Its an 07 GS500F with 11800KM (all basically put on in one season from the chick I bought it off from) Sorry, how do I check the float heights and fuel hoses etcc..?

What else should I check on the bike at this point of time in its life (11800 KM)....spark plugs? breather pipes?...?

I need a sevice manual for 07 gs500F

vorBH,

Not knowing the history of the bike, I could only suggest that 11,800km makes it ready for its second full service (every 6,000km).

Go and have a look at the maintenance schedule on the Wiki:  http://cgi.stanford.edu/~sanjayd/gs500

The Wiki also has information about how to float height checks as well as other things.

The rear rotor is scratched with rust because the wheel does not rotate freely at all. Just as a side not, I checked GTAmotorcycle and she has postings about her being in an accidetm, I dont think its major as all though.

The rear wheel scratches the rotor in rotation. When I press the rear brakes while driving, it goes alllll the way down, as if no pressure/fluid. I check the rear brake fluid indicator box, I dont see the liquid b/c it may be too full or empty!?

I checked the rear wheel 'striaghtness' indicator...one side is off from the other (not lined at same markings, so contributing to non-free rotating wheel), so I gotta pull the chain back anyways and then straigten the wheel next season, hopefully that fixes that.....ill have to send you guys pics next season to show you the condition of the rear section (rotor)