I just installed it last weekend, and I have a quick question regarding removal and remount.  Everywhere I've read says you need to disconnect the negative first then the positive, and mounting is the reverse.  In the Walmart battery's case, the negative is at the bottom of the battery while the positive is at the top.  Haven't quite figure out how to undo the negative with out removing the positive end and lifting up the battery.  Any thoughts?  Is the disconnect order absolutely vital?  Thanks,

it is if you dont want a short or arcy pos first almost walys results in the arcing. that aside, whadaya mean neg on bottom. you mean underneath battery?, ( im drawing a blank here)

you shouldn't have any sparks at all, as there is no draw on the battery when your ignition is turned off. if there are sparks, there is an amperage draw, and you have other issues with your electrics causing your NEW battery to be discharged.

if your battery has leads on the top and bottom, you have the wrong battery. or you're trying to mount it sideways. or you're trying to mount it upside down

tips for finding the right battery:

pull the old one out, measure the difference in the size between the OLD battery and your battery box. if there is no extra room, tote in the OLD battery and find one (12V) that looks just like it. Leave the old, take the new.

Fill with acid if not already, charge, install, ride. Top it off every 2-3 months with DISTILLED  WATER if it's a maintenance type battery. Charge it when it needs it. Top off when it needs it. Clean the lead with a brush and apply vaseline or whatever you like. It will last 3-4 years (or more) if you don't kill it with the PARKING LIGHT

I'm on my 3rd year with a $30 walmart battery. The original battery would STILL be in my bike, but I didn't know that 'gas in the tank' doesn't mean 'enough gas in the tank' until after I killed the original battery. (that was a hint too)

Enjoy.

Guys ... thw ES12BS is sealed. Walmart sealed battery ES12BS goes in sideways ... so the negative on the bottom.

I connect any which way ... just that when you connect the positive after you hook up the negative be careful not to hit the frame with your tool.

If you're careless, the negative last is better ... if not ... makes no diff.

And yes the buddha recomends you throw in any crap you can and see if it sticks, the 12BS does stick ... so its Buddha approved.

Cool.
Buddha.

buddha got the idea, ok, I'll just make sure to use a rubber shafted screw driver or something when I hook it back up. thanks,

Quote from: flyingmachine on November 26, 2008, 04:44:36 PM
buddha got the idea, ok, I'll just make sure to use a rubber shafted screw driver or something when I hook it back up. thanks,

That might be a good idea. Where I work there are a lot of things with batteries and I've seen people cover regular screwdriver shafts in heat shrink tubing to reduce the risk of shorting out on something...

One more caveat with the 12BS battery ... make sure it doesn;t rock back and the positive post hit the rear brake reservoir bracket. Bike will stall on acceleration and you'd never know why.
Cool.
Buddha.

Quote from: ohgood on November 26, 2008, 04:53:36 AM
you shouldn't have any sparks at all, as there is no draw on the battery when your ignition is turned off. if there are sparks, there is an amperage draw, and you have other issues with your electrics causing your NEW battery to be discharged.

if your battery has leads on the top and bottom, you have the wrong battery. or you're trying to mount it sideways. or you're trying to mount it upside down

tips for finding the right battery:

pull the old one out, measure the difference in the size between the OLD battery and your battery box. if there is no extra room, tote in the OLD battery and find one (12V) that looks just like it. Leave the old, take the new.

Fill with acid if not already, charge, install, ride. Top it off every 2-3 months with DISTILLED  WATER if it's a maintenance type battery. Charge it when it needs it. Top off when it needs it. Clean the lead with a brush and apply vaseline or whatever you like. It will last 3-4 years (or more) if you don't kill it with the PARKING LIGHT

I'm on my 3rd year with a $30 walmart battery. The original battery would STILL be in my bike, but I didn't know that 'gas in the tank' doesn't mean 'enough gas in the tank' until after I killed the original battery. (that was a hint too)

Enjoy.

actually if you touch anythign connected to the pos terminal wiht teh frame, EVEn with the key off, you WILL spark/arc, cause its connecting the vvehicle to ground. because ground cable goe sDIRECTLY to metal, and connecting wrench to pos term, and hitting metal part, bypasses ignition switch

thanks guys, I'll use the same beatup old glove I use to shimmy the battery steady also as a insulator for the positive terminal then. 

The bike is supposed to have a cap of sorts on the positive terminal. You need to put on if its missing.
The bike is supposed to have a strap holding the battery down, the peckerheads at suzuki forgot ... make one out of inner tube and zip ties ...
Cool.
Buddha.