Okay so I'm going to be running a GS500 wheel in my GS750, but you have to use GS750 bearings.  I got the bearings out of the 500 wheel with no issues at all...hammer, drift, and a few minutes smacking the inside and bam, bearings out.

There isn't enough play in the GS750 tube thingy inside the wheel to get a good bite on the bearings, though.  Anyone here know of another way to go about it?

Fixed it...just needed to keep doing the same thing and got it done.  Probably going to end up a little screwed, though, because the bearing brace tubes weren't compatible...the one to fit the 750 axle was nearly an inch too short.  Got to rely on proper torque values and hope the races are pretty sturdy haha.  I'll have to cut a custom one later.

The "Tube thingy" is a bearing spacer designed to allow the axle bolt preload to pass though the inner bearing race without applying an axial load to the bearing.

A 6303 or similar bearing is not designed for that amount of axial load. 

I don't suggest riding it unless you want to be visited by a pissed off Black Swan driving a steamroller.

yeap I know what it's for.  doesn't change the fact that I either have to cut it half and use spacers to stretch it or simply machine a new one of the proper dimension.  thanks, though.

Quote from: makenzie71 on January 03, 2009, 11:53:14 PM
yeap I know what it's for.  doesn't change the fact that I either have to cut it half and use spacers to stretch it or simply machine a new one of the proper dimension.  thanks, though.

+1 on -not- stressing bearings. they serve without complaint for years and years if you don't make them angry. angry bearings - ouch. $$$$ and worse. ok, you heard geep, i'll shaddup about it.

i'd use a single spacer instead of a build up. just imagine what happens if they're off a little and start wearing against each other slowly. then the swarf from teh misalignment gets into the precious bearings... ouchie !

Justin,
you didn't really reassemble the wheel without the spacer in there.
i will not call you a fukin stupid hack as long as you only are doing so for fitting purposes
ONLY!!!!!

Having said that I know what the spacer is for should be answer enough.

Quote from: makenzie71 on January 03, 2009, 09:38:57 PM
Fixed it...just needed to keep doing the same thing and got it done.  Probably going to end up a little screwed, though, because the bearing brace tubes weren't compatible...the one to fit the 750 axle was nearly an inch too short.  Got to rely on proper torque values and hope the races are pretty sturdy haha.  I'll have to cut a custom one later.

Obviously you know what you're doing in spite of others opinions.   

If I was putting in new wheel bearings and needed to get a proper spacer I would not be concerned about relying on my torque wrench hands to assemble without the spacer temporarily until I got the proper parts.

I was running my 02 GS without the spacer between the left wheel brg and the cush drive brg for thousands of miles without knowing it was missing, must have been lost during a tire change.  This would side load the cush brg and the right wheel brg and eventually the wheel brg failed.  If I had known the spacer was missing I would have adjusted my torque wrench hands accordingly.     I only use an actual torque wrench for engine work.

Feck me......its not hard to come up with a length for a suitable spacer tube......same length as the distance between the 2 shoulders in the wheel-hub 

Actually 17mm ID tubing is odd-ball enough that no one carries it at 8pm on a Saturday lol.

I'm just going to cut a 440 SS spacer when I get to work, only I'm going to make it better...I'm going to cut wedged notches on the inside of the damn thing so that you can actually put a suitable tool in there to drive the first bearings out.

heck i was guessing a suitable piece of galv pipe cut to length was in your future

It's crazy but there wasn't any conduit big enough for the axle to fit through that could be found.

18mm stock and a boring-bar.....or even 20mm stock, bored out to 17mm and tapered to 18mm at each end with a 1mm face....loads of ways round it.

The disappointing thing is that I'll only have like 3" stock to deal with so there's going to be a lot of waste. I'm only going to cut it down far enough to fit in the wheel then taper the ends like you say...with a 1~1.5mm face to match the bearings.