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would this work as a moniter for me

Started by mach1, January 18, 2009, 09:14:08 AM

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mach1

04Gs,fenderectomy,V&H Full exhaust,Vortex clip-ons.13t front sprocket.,Uni Pods,22.5/65/147.5,Katana rear shock,M-1 metzeler 150 rear tire,Yamaha R6 Tail-SOLD
79 Honda CM185t-In restoration mode with this bike.DEAD slammed 2003 Honda Shadow 600, matte black everything 18inch ape hangers

ohgood

maybe- it's jcw after all ;)

might want to video the mixture instead of watching the gauge while riding. then you can see the rpm's, throttle position, speed, etc and get a better idea of how things were really working.


(and it's safer) :)


tt_four: "and believe me, BMW motorcycles are 50% metal, rubber and plastic, and 50% useless

5thAve

If you do this modification, please post your experience and your results here.  We want to see, too!   :icon_eek:
GS500EM currently undergoing major open-heart surgery.
Coming eventually: 541cc with 78mm Wiseco pistons; K&N Lunchbox; Vance & Hines; 40 pilot / 147.5 main jets; Progressive fork springs; 15W fork oil; Katana 750 shock

VFR750FM beautifully stock.
XV750 Virago 1981 - sold
XL185s 1984 - sold

Weston

Is it wideband? It looks kinda like a narrow band to me, but idk.

utgunslinger13

if its narrow band its not worth it.  Trust me, going from my narrow band to a wide band on my turbo civic was a WORLD OF DIFFERENCE.  Don't waste your time if you hope to use the narrow band for any type of tunning other than at WOT.

Thanks,

Nick
Check out my current project build:

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=41982.0

Weston

Yep, narrow band is just for highway cruising type conditions...and yeah, you need numbers not "rich" and "lean", becuase whats rich for cruising is lean for acceleration....etc. Here is the cheapest wideband that I know of:   http://www.14point7.com/JAW/JAW.htm

ke7syv

NO NO NO  :icon_eek: Don't use anything narrow-band. They're nothing but a light show. If you really need something, get this. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=EDL%2D6593&N=700+302787+115&autoview=sku  It's the cheapest solution you'll find. I plan on Picking one up here in a little when I rejet the carb. It comes with everything. O2 sensor, Bung, and of course the display. Narrow-band deals with 0.001-1.0V. Wide-band are 0.001-5v or something like that. I've seen narrowband sensors in use and they're a total joke. They only work in a range of around 13.5-15.
"Those who do not want to fight in this world of eternal struggle do not deserve to live."
"The great masses of the people will more easily fall victims to a big lie than to a small one."
"Democracy is two wolves and a sheep coming together to decide what's for dinner."
"You Vote, We'll Decide"

mach1

I wasnt set on that one but it was an idea. The one from summit is great I may get that one I like that it has a pipe coupling with the kit. where would be the best spot to add it I would think right after the two headers meet.
04Gs,fenderectomy,V&H Full exhaust,Vortex clip-ons.13t front sprocket.,Uni Pods,22.5/65/147.5,Katana rear shock,M-1 metzeler 150 rear tire,Yamaha R6 Tail-SOLD
79 Honda CM185t-In restoration mode with this bike.DEAD slammed 2003 Honda Shadow 600, matte black everything 18inch ape hangers

ke7syv

Yes, right after the connector. This will allow an accurate reading as well as a quick warm up of the sensor. I've thought about getting one per cylinder but theoretically with all things being equal ,which they never are, and with both carbs set up the same (jets, mixture screws, etc.), I should have equal air/fuel ratios. But do I?
"Those who do not want to fight in this world of eternal struggle do not deserve to live."
"The great masses of the people will more easily fall victims to a big lie than to a small one."
"Democracy is two wolves and a sheep coming together to decide what's for dinner."
"You Vote, We'll Decide"

mach1

the only plus would be if you jets get gummed in one you can see it and know where the issue is. If you are running dual cans with no H pipe or X pipe than two is needed good thing I ditched the dual setup.
04Gs,fenderectomy,V&H Full exhaust,Vortex clip-ons.13t front sprocket.,Uni Pods,22.5/65/147.5,Katana rear shock,M-1 metzeler 150 rear tire,Yamaha R6 Tail-SOLD
79 Honda CM185t-In restoration mode with this bike.DEAD slammed 2003 Honda Shadow 600, matte black everything 18inch ape hangers

utgunslinger13

I believe that you will need to keep a specific distance from the head for its readings to be accurate.  I would assume that the directions that come with the kit would explain that.  But I would guess shortly after the collector would be a smart spot.

Nick
Check out my current project build:

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=41982.0

mach1

So I guess once I get some extra moola I will get this. The bike runs great now I will als advance the timing a bit by turning the backing plate a few degreeeez.
04Gs,fenderectomy,V&H Full exhaust,Vortex clip-ons.13t front sprocket.,Uni Pods,22.5/65/147.5,Katana rear shock,M-1 metzeler 150 rear tire,Yamaha R6 Tail-SOLD
79 Honda CM185t-In restoration mode with this bike.DEAD slammed 2003 Honda Shadow 600, matte black everything 18inch ape hangers

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