I've been a bad boy and I neglected checking the chain slack.  Anyway, it's really loose now and I can't find the manual for the adjustment instructions.  The manual is probably in one of the boxes in the storage unit.  Can anyone kindly provide the instructions of adjusting the tension? 

Thank you. 

Loosen the rear wheel axle nut.  If you have a cotter pin, you should replace it.  Now take a wrench (12 mm I believe) and turn each chain adjuster nut (on the long threaded rod sticking out of each side of the swing arm) clockwise an equal amount until you have the proper tension.  You probably won't need more than 1 turn, and probably less.  Tighten the rear wheel axle nut, replace the cotter pin if you have one, and you're done.

chain tension is measured on the bottom midway between the sprockets. the freeplay should be 20-30mm.  make sure the notch on either side is at the same mark on both sides.

And do your adjusting while the bike is ON THE SIDE STAND, NOT THE CENTER STAND.   

I have made that mistake 2 times.   

I did chain adjustment yesterday to tighten the chain.
But I think I did it on the centrestand because the bike was already on it. Later, when I drove after 2 minutes I check the chain (luggage and me on the bike) and it was tight...moving barely maybe 1/4 of an inch or so...is that too tight?

What happens if chain too tight? I noticed when going above 7000RPM the power was kind of "tight" and not like before very "easy".....I think I need to loosen it...

The free play should be 1 inch while on the sidestand? Or 1 inch when the bike is sat on with load etc....?

A loose chain is not good, a too tight chain is much worse as it overloads gearbox and rear wheel and swingarm bearings. Best to adjust with bike upright and off the stand, but on the sidestand is OK if you adjust it to 3/4-1 inch, no less. And make sure you rotate the wheel afew times to find the tightest spot and adjust it there.
If you can feel the tightness when you ride it, it is much too tight!
You also need to make sure the rear wheel stays in line with the front, best is with a stringline. Do a search for details, it has been covered in detail.

Quote from: Caffeine on April 02, 2006, 04:33:07 PM
And do your adjusting while the bike is ON THE SIDE STAND, NOT THE CENTER STAND.   

I have made that mistake 2 times.   

I read that in 3 of my Suzuki Owners Manuals too, only to have the corresponding Suzuki Service Manual say Center Stand. I have never adjusted a chain on the side stand. IMHO I would rather tighten the axle bolt with the bike on the CC in a free state rather than the SS because if you loosen the axle while on the SS the ground is actually pushing the tire sideways by the bike leaning. I don't think you are making a real mistake by doing it either way 

I'm going to stick with the CS, regardless of what the Owners Manual says 

EDIT: The DL1000 Service Manual clearly states Side Stand, grabbing reading glasses and reevaluating my statement! GS500F= Side Stand, sorry for any confusion and under Adjusting the DL650 Service Manual says Side Stand also.....sorry for being blind 

It's official Suzuki says Side Stand

But my GSX650F Service Manual does say Center Stand under Adjustment 

Wait I just realized that....Sidestand I would rather NOT do...because the bike is sitting on the rear wheel....how would it move back and forth to get the wheel straight and all the other stuff....

Ok I'm doing it on the CC, what should the play of the chain be while doing the chain tension on the CC?

Quote from: vorBH on March 07, 2009, 04:55:25 PM
Wait I just realized that....Sidestand I would rather NOT do...because the bike is sitting on the rear wheel....how would it move back and forth to get the wheel straight and all the other stuff....

Ok I'm doing it on the CC, what should the play of the chain be while doing the chain tension on the CC?

1 - because the wheel will not fall off. 2- because it's the right way. 3 - eat your vegetables ! 4- you KICK the snot out of the wheel once the adjusters are where you think you want them. do the string thing , here even a link for a nice howto: http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/sportryderswheelalignmentmethod.shtml

try it, it's easy, fast, and right !

Quote from: ohgood on March 07, 2009, 07:44:50 PM

Quote from: vorBH on March 07, 2009, 04:55:25 PM
Wait I just realized that....Sidestand I would rather NOT do...because the bike is sitting on the rear wheel....how would it move back and forth to get the wheel straight and all the other stuff....

Ok I'm doing it on the CC, what should the play of the chain be while doing the chain tension on the CC?

1 - because the wheel will not fall off. 2- because it's the right way. 3 - eat your vegetables ! 4- you KICK the snot out of the wheel once the adjusters are where you think you want them. do the string thing , here even a link for a nice howto: http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/sportryderswheelalignmentmethod.shtml

try it, it's easy, fast, and right !

I've had over 20 bikes since I started riding and I have always used the CC, I have never ruined or broke anything including output shaft seals using that method. And I don't plan on doing the right thing any time soon. I service my 5 bikes on a lift anyway and I never put them up in the air on the SS....there that's all the excuse I need to use the CC 
CCPDYMMV 

So what should the freeplay be on the chain, when the bike is on CC? 1 - 1.5inches?

Quote from: vorBH on March 07, 2009, 09:08:58 PM
So what should the freeplay be on the chain, when the bike is on CC? 1 - 1.5inches?

Bikes get tight at the mid point of the suspension travel, so when your on the side stand the bikes weight will make the chain a little bit tight, I believe this is why they want you to adjust the chain on the side stand? I use 1 inch mid point in the swing arm on the center stand. You will not have any problems doing the same 

(Have a couple of people sit on the bike and compress the suspension to mid point and then check it to be absolutely sure if you want?) 

Quote from: Suzuki Stevo on March 07, 2009, 08:15:20 PM

Quote from: ohgood on March 07, 2009, 07:44:50 PM

Quote from: vorBH on March 07, 2009, 04:55:25 PM
Wait I just realized that....Sidestand I would rather NOT do...because the bike is sitting on the rear wheel....how would it move back and forth to get the wheel straight and all the other stuff....

Ok I'm doing it on the CC, what should the play of the chain be while doing the chain tension on the CC?

1 - because the wheel will not fall off. 2- because it's the right way. 3 - eat your vegetables ! 4- you KICK the snot out of the wheel once the adjusters are where you think you want them. do the string thing , here even a link for a nice howto: http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/sportryderswheelalignmentmethod.shtml

try it, it's easy, fast, and right !

1) I've had over 20 bikes since I started riding and I have always used the CC,2)  I have never ruined or broke anything including output shaft seals using that method. 3) And I don't plan on doing the right thing any time soon. 4) I service my 5 bikes on a lift anyway and I never put them up in the air on the SS....5) there that's all the excuse I need to use the CC 
CCPDYMMV 

1 - that's neat
2 - ditto
3 - well, ok, but the original post was asking how, so... you know
4 - another neat thing, i'd like to try it on a stand instead of hunching like a troll for once !
5 - those are justifications, not excuses. excuses usually cover up a fault, you're making a case for your way of doing things. you really don't have to.

i doubt many of the folks riding gs's have stands, have owned 20+ bikes, or have deeply ingrained ways of doing things just yet. it's cool if it's how you like it, i wasn't bashing you.

i think the link to the string thing might have gotten lost in the comments. here it is again, along with the manual's recommended slack (checking several sections under the swingarm) 7/8" - 1 1/8"

http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/sportryderswheelalignmentmethod.shtml

Quote from: ohgood on March 08, 2009, 06:37:09 AM

1 - that's neat
2 - ditto
3 - well, ok, but the original post was asking how, so... you know
4 - another neat thing, i'd like to try it on a stand instead of hunching like a troll for once !
5 - those are justifications, not excuses. excuses usually cover up a fault, you're making a case for your way of doing things. you really don't have to.

i doubt many of the folks riding gs's have stands, have owned 20+ bikes, or have deeply ingrained ways of doing things just yet. it's cool if it's how you like it, i wasn't bashing you.

i think the link to the string thing might have gotten lost in the comments. here it is again, along with the manual's recommended slack (checking several sections under the swingarm) 7/8" - 1 1/8"

http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/sportryderswheelalignmentmethod.shtml

I know you where not bashing me, I still am having a hard time with myself actually (if you go by the book) doing it wrong all these years. I would have never thought that the side stand was the correct way to do it 

EDIT: By all means, get a lift...I am never going back to crouching, laying on the concrete/dirt or wanking out my back to maintain a bike 

Lol thats exactly all what I was looking for, the slack numbers, thanks...I own a bike stand for front and rear...I did my chain adjustment for my cbr125 on the stand (wheel off ground)...in fact, I didn't know how to do it, my experienced friend (a mechanic) did it on the stand for my 125 (and that bike only has sidestand, which means if you didn't have a stand, the stock manual expects you to do it off sidestand?? or do they expect you to take it to the mechanic to put it up on a stand??..anyways).......and I will do it on the CC for the 500, for alignment purposes...just doesn't make sense on the sidestand.

THAT is a SWEEET bike lift, I want to get one later on for sure!

Quote from: vorBH on March 08, 2009, 08:29:19 AM
THAT is a SWEEET bike lift, I want to get one later on for sure!

And you can store your second bike on it, that way it really doesn't take up any more room at all 

Nicee  A lift, more than 1 bike, very nice

While on chain tension and wheel alignment...when I first get a chain drive bike I always check the wheel alignment against the chain adjust graduations this way...

Gun Sight Method
WHILE ON THE CENTER STAND: Remove the chain guard and get your head in the rear wheel well looking down on the chain. Look down through a top link in the chain, look for a forward tooth on the rear sprocket, now look through farther for a link at the bottom of the chain. NOW similar to a gun sight, in your line of sight align the bottom link squarely inside the top link. If correct a forward tooth on the sprocket will be in the exact middle of the top and bottom links. If not adjust it to so the forward tooth of the rear sprocket is in the middle REGARDLESS of what the swing arm graduations say.

It may take a couple of tries to get it right, but it actually works quite well!   

Awsome, I'll keep an eye out for that method, I'm sure it'll help.
I don;t know how I'll get so accurate, but I find loosening the axle nut only to the necessary point for the wheel to move...is only necessary to make the adjustments....when it too loose and come back to tighten...you almost lose all the work you did and goes out of alignment for some reason..I really hate that