Has anyone tried a different rear brake caliper on the GS?
I know the GS mounting bolts have the same spacing as the TL & GSXR. Haven't checked the rest of the dimensions yet. The 01-02 GSXR 1000 caliper (gold colored) is much lighter than others and is a direct bolt on for the TL. Been watching ebay for one cheap, if it doesn't fit then it will get mounted on my TLR.

Let us know how the experiment goes. I am interested in trying that to.

I am told there is about a 1/2 pound difference in the two. The caliper would hang from the bottom so the torque bar mount would need to be relocated. Here is a comparison pic of the 01-02 and the regular Gix/TL caliper:


Been looking at the 03 Gix caliper as well this would eliminate the torque bar. A mounting brace with a slot would need to be welded to the swing arm to accomodate the different hanger mount. Here is a pic of the 03 mount:

just curious why the rear caliper? I thought you get most of your braking from the front brake anyway. I thought MSF said like 70/30 or 60/40. Just wondering

Because the race org Tech guys says you have to have one.  

also because, sometimes you need to use it, and you can only use the rear if you run off into the grass..

Just trying to shave any weight off that I can. I would remove it if I could. I never use it except entering/leaving the pits, I will tap it just make sure it will slow me down if I go off roading. Also, I can't leave anything alone without modifying it. The GS is the perfect platform, too bad my wallet doesn't think so.
The rear brake fluid reservoir is going to be removed as well. Setting it up the way GP bikes have theirs. Started drilling the rear rotor too.

if the swaped caliper works better then do it    but if you just want to lose a 1/2 pound then it's not worth it....it's easyer to go on a 1 pound diet  

I've seen a GS with a tiny rear caliper off a 125 or something. Might as well get something small if you're going to go to the trouble of doing it.

You can save a whole pound by switching to the '89 aluminum shock linkage - I just happen to have one for sale! And 3 to 5 by going to a tiny battery. 3 or 5 AH is lots for a race day. I was running a 5 AH one with a total loss electrical system, and still using the starter! Yeah, it would have been lighter without the starter and drive gearing, but I hate bump starting!

A GSXR aluminum brake stay is a lot lighter too - a bit shorter, but it works fine.

Get out the Sawzall, and cut off the rear of the frame, and the passenger peg mounts. Of course you need to cut out a 1/8" aluminum mount for the muffler. If you haven't got rear sets yet, you can save about 6 lbs. with a set of aluminum ones over those chunks of steel that come with the GS.

And yes, losing weight off your body is a good thing too, but there is some difference between dead  and live weight when it comes to turning the thing. And sometimes it is much easeir to buy weight loss on the bike than on your body!

Thanks again for the parts. I appreciate the suggestions about weight savings. I actuall have a GSXR shock linkage that I forgot I had. It was boxed up with the rest of my SV parts. Need any M4 cans for crash spares? Going to cut off the rear of the subframe and the exhaust hanger. Then make one out of aluminum or thin stainless steel. I made 2, aluminum & stainless steel, for my SV and the S/S one was lighter. Already has woodcraft rear sets. Been thinking about replacing the battery, a trip to the local battery specialist may be in order.

I measured the rear rotor on my TLR and it is smaller than the GS rotor. So the hanger from the '03 GSXR would not work. One could be fabricated. There is a '02 gixxer caliper on ebay now that I am going to try to get.

Well looks like I have a 01 GSXR1000 caliper on the way. This will hang from the bottom but still mount on the stock bracket. Need to relocate the torque bar to the bottom of the swing arm and plan on using an aluminum torque bar from another gixxer donor. I am going to weigh every thing I put on and take off. Looked at getting a 03 gixxer caliper but not sure about the mounting hole locations and would probably have to fabricate a bracket.

if you are just trying to save weight....dirt bike caliper and an aluminum rotor.......
yes the pads will clog if you use it alot
but it will drop some weight
NOT FOR STREET!!!!! guys..... rotor wears quickly!!!!

I have an AL rotor on my 92 RS125....
Srinath has a guy who can cut them out.

Dgyver.....going to BLUE RIDGE BREWERY in Greenville tues for a beer.... if interested?

Quote from: werase643Dgyver.....going to BLUE RIDGE BREWERY in Greenville tues for a beer.... if interested?

I get out of school around 8pm and have to be at work by 6am Wed....so what time are you going to be there?

Installed the gixxer 1k rear caliper today. Used an aluminum torque bar from a gixxer 600. Had a extra stainless steel brake so on it went. removed the brake fluid reservoir and just using a clear hose with a custom aluminum plug. I was not after the bling bling effect but it really does look sweet! Pics to follow....

Here is a pic of the install. Also, notice that I changed the stock 2+ pound steel rear shock linkage for an aluminum gixxer linkage. It is barely visable under the brake pedal. A little modification and shock height adjustment was required. It raised the rear about 1/2"

start drilling BIG holes in the rotor!!!!!
you don't need no stinkin' metal
lighter!!!!

how about drilling 1" holes in the frame for weight reduction? the steel frame is strong as is so drilling it wouldn't make much difference or would it?

You can safely cut off the back of the sub frame. I cut off from the seat latch bridge back. The shock reservour (GSXR) will fit under that little bridge. I also cut off pass peg brackest and mounted exhaust hanger to one of the existing tapped holes in the frame.
I like the battery and button start, but one of my buds has total loss with no starter or rotor and his GS bump starts really easy.
Another thing I noticed is that inverted front end (ZX7) is lighter than '89+ GSXR and late model wheels are much lighter too.

I have another rear rotor that I started drilling bigger holes in.
I did cut the rear off the subframe, just can't see it in the pic.
Will keep the battery for now, but switch to a smaller one.
The left passenger pegs have been cut off. I am going to cut off the exhaust hanger and make an aluminum hanger to replace it.

Update on the rear brake install and wheel removal....

When I was removing the rear wheel, I did not have to unbolt the caliper from the hanger or torque bar. The wheel was able to clear the caliper without any problems. The caliper just dropped down and was supported by the torque arm. This was the easiest ever to remove the rear wheel. Installing it should be just as easy.

Did you weld a new attachment point for the torque arm?