Since I've installed the jet kit on my bike I've gota question...

The bike has a Dynojet kit and K&N pods.  I installed the dynojet needle with the c-clip on the 3rd groove from the top and with the 128 main jets.  I've also got the mixture screws turned out 3 total turns.

The bike seems to run great in the mid range and the upper range is fine too... my problem is the low end... seems to shutter and grunt and act like it's in pain when I start off from a stand still...  would this low end stutter be due to mixture screws?

Also, I notice that if the bike is warm, the choke kills the bike...


Thanks.


Rolly

With the bike properly jetted the choke should make it run like crap or not at all after warm-up - - The mixture screws and/or float height combine to control the idle and just off idle runining - probably one of those needs a look.  I would start with the screws and then check the float hieght - which can be done without removing the carbs -

My float height is correct and I have the screws turned out 3 turns.  I'm wondering if it would help to turn them out more or to turn them back in...

And wha do the screws actually do... do they increase the amount of air or increase the amount of fuel?


Rolly

When warm pulling the choke on will kill it, however if you are blipping the throttle or have the throttle partly open when you put on the choke... it should rev high and stay running. Now the feeling like it wants to stall with the jet kit... I am alomst betting you have the stock pilots in... If so go to 40's. That was the issue I could never solve till I went to 40's.
Mix screws actually are a obstruction in a fuel passage. Air comes through under the butterfly, the fuel is sucked out of the passage at the bottom, and the mix screw is a blockage in that passage. Unscrew it and it obstructs less. It also has a taper, so as you unscrew its effect is more drastic than just being linear. Its exponential. So you actually let in a lot more fuel with a small change in it.
Cool.
Srinath.

Dynojet says on 2 different documents (the instructions and the troubleshooting guide) that you must use the stock pilots.  Should I still get the 40 pilots?

I will try to turn the pilots screws out one more turn and see what happens - I also noticed this morning that is I crank the handlebars over all the way to the right (all the way) and the bike is warm it will die... ugh... didn't do that yesterday...

Thanks again.

I'm wanting to mount a freer-flowing exhaust but I can't believe how STUPID the design in the exhaust is that it's all one piece and the only way toi replace the exhaust is to cut it off!!!!  HOW F-ING STUPID!!!!!!

Rolly

Yes DJ does say that pilots should be left stock. However they wrote that doc for many bikes across many countries. So someone in canada receiving the kit will be asked to leave his 40's in it, while the US bikes will have 37.5's. Now I dont know that any of the other bikes from suzuki or other manufacturers have had that diff. In any case the jet kit also does very very little for the low end. You are expected to fiddle with the mix screws and float level and get it worked out. They also tell you to make fine adjustments to those till the bottom end is good. All of that has shifted the burden on you to get it right. More over... with DJ I have felt that compared to the stock needle if the WFO is right with DJ, I think the mid range and low end will be lean. Because of the steep taper in the last 1/4 inch of that needle. Hence I'd say the DJ kit mainly deals with the higher rpm's only. So I guess I'd try 40's. Of course your throttle cable or choke cable hanging/pulling needs to be sorted out first.
Cool.
Srinath.

Oh well about the exhaust... its easy to slice off, use a dremel tool and cut right at the can where it flares. Make a very shallow cut and the can will slide off. Dont cut it through. The good thing is that the stock can is pretty ugly. On the eli the exhaust is about the prettiest part of the bike.
Cool.
Srinath.

Do you have the part number for the 40 pilots?
I'll order them from my local Suzuki dealer (I hate that place - oh well...).

Thanks.


Rolly

3 turns out is a lot for the idle mixture screws (not pilot screws). I would expect somewhere more like 2 1/4 to 2 1/2. There really isn't a magic number for this, and they should be adjusted for each bike/altitude.

With the bike completely warmed up (after a ride), turn one screw in slowly until the idle reaches max revs, and then back it out 1/4 turn. Re-set the idle speed, and do the other one. Re-set the idle speed. Re-check both of them.

You should also check the carb balance just off idle. Do a search for instructions. You may need to tweak the idle mixtures again after.

The GS idle screws adjust the idle circuit fuel flow - in is leaner.