Hi there, I've been working on my GS500e for a little while now and wondered if i'ld be having to pull the engine and purchase a new upper crank case inorder to pass its MOT.

Heres a picture of what i'm on about



And another one just for fun



The engine doesn't move at all, i'm just unsure if its a defiante fail.

And yes it really does need a good clean.

Regards

Conoral11

That could go either way but I wouldnt be too surprised if a keen MOT Tester failed it......The MOT book says "All major components should be securely fastened" but you could argue that despite the damage the engine is still secure. Whats the story behind the bike, it doesnt look like that has just happened, has it passed before in that condition? I would take the pics over to your local MOT shop show them and ask if its worthwhile taking it in. No sense wasting £23.80.

http://www.motuk.co.uk/mcmanual_610.htm

The bikes been sitting for about 2 years, but looking online at the past MOT's its always passed no problem. But then again i don't know if it was in this state before. I had had a look at that mot reference and it was what prompted me to ask.

Regards

conoral11

That broken thing, looks like the least of its problems.
You can throw on some aluminum pipe cut to the right shape and ground up to form a nice V shape and weld it up. Its porus dirty aluminum, so will weld up like crap ... but it should pass MOT with some black paint on it.
Cool.
Buddha.

the budduh we all know and loath would say....
well besides the rant on the quality of AL...

carb cleaner.....
JB weld...
black paint....(actually he'd powder coat it)

what missing chunk?

Buddha, when you say "thats the least of its problems", what do you mean exactly?

And thank you for the ideas, there beyond my technical skill at the moment, but i'll definalty see if it has to be done it will.

Most of the grease is from when I was trying to pull the exhaust system off, as it needed welding at the 2-1 connection. Two of the bolts have been corroding so much i've not been able to get them out, and eventually they both snapped.

Heres some shots of the bolts i'm on about:



And also



And just for kicks, here my bike as I left it
Respraying the mud guard and repaired the rear plastics, hence the lack of or colour change.



The exhuast has been sanded down quite alot already, but it does require replacement pretty soon. Thats why it looks awful.

Regards

Conoral11

Ay up Cono
I've just bought a cheap gs and it's virtually the same as your pics except you've a bit more for the mounting bolt to secure to. Bought mine and got full MOT with it. I was worried about passing the next mot and have been round MOT test stations, breakers and dealers for their opinions, no problems i was told. You're right that the engine won't move so don't worry.
If you consider a cosmetic weld, you're looking at a lot of cash to fork out so take it for MOT first, and to the right place

Conoral dude, it looked like you had a head gasket leak. maybe it just had so much oil everywhere I didn't see it right.

Dont listen to the werase ... you cant powdercoat JB weld, and worse you cant powdercoat that part without heating the whole bike to 400 degrees.
Powdercoat he said ... huh.

Weld and shave it smoother and paint with engine enamel.

Cool.
Buddha.

I've been doing more work to the gs over this week (had a short visit home from university due to the passing of my grandfather). I've managed to repair one of the exhaust screw moutings in the head, drilled out the old fused bolt retapped and all is good, did the same with the other but the HSS drill be snapped inside. So now i'm left with the drill bit still inside the head... do any of you have any ideas on how to remove it? (theres no protruding material so i can't vice grip it)

My local mechanic said he'ld weld up the front engine mount for me so thats finally getting sorted out.

I'm still having problems with my rear break, after rebuilding the caliper its now working, but I do now believe that the rotor is warped, it only ever rubs against the pads at one place and always the same place. I've checked the rear wheel alignment using the measure from centre of swingarm bolt to axle bolt method, and that all checks out.

And finally the last thing i was able to do was rectify the white smoke from the exhaust I was getting. Simple fix was to drain the oil (there was too much in there) and fill to the correct level.

The final thing that needs fixing is the tacho meter sleeve which was shread off by the previous owner. Any ideas how to get the remained out of the head?

Regards

Conoral11

Something else thats been bugging me, my clutch is behaving oddly. If you fully pull the clutch in, then put it into gear the wheel starts turning. Which i would presume would indicated that the clutch cable is too lose / needs adjusting. However, if you stop the wheel by hand, the wheels stops and stays stopped.

If you clutch slip a little, then pull the clutch fully again, the wheel stops as it should.

However, if you fully release the clutch lever, the wheels spins, but if you pull the lever in again, it keeps spinning.

Whats happening here? Any ideas

Regards

Conoral11