Hey guys,

I rejetted my carbs several months ago after installing a K&N lunchbox (bike already had yoshi slip). i got the jet kit from buddha (thanks again) with 150 mains, but i think my bike is terribly rich now... so i want to try switching to the 147.5's  to see if that helps. anyone got an extra set lying around? thanks!

edward

You have 89-00 bike right ?
Make sure your floats are set right. Floats on the 89-00 bike tend to wear high. Set them to the top of bowl and no more ... if its there right now, lower it 1mm and try it. Make sure air filter is clean also.
And if it fails, check your choke for sticking.
Then turn your air screw in 1/2 turn.

BTW how is it acting when you say rich.
Cool.
Buddha.

yeah i got a '93

air filter is clean. ill try and adjust the float height a little and see if that helps. pretty sure the choke is good, though ill go and double check.
well.. i say rich because first off i keep getting high off the unburnt gas in the exhaust. thrttle response is pretty bad. throttle on and it dips before raising rmps. to the point where it stalled on my friend when he rode it and revved it at a stop light. then the late return/hang at high rmp when you let off the throttle. stinks, because i was hoping for a little better response after my k&n and rejett... but so far im not seeing it. thanks for the help buddha,

edward

but i think my bike is terribly rich now...


going down one size ain't gunna fix it....try 130-135's

Edwardvdh - You have signs of being both rich and lean ...
Hanging rpm = lean.
Gas smell and dipping rpm on revving = well ... rich, but classic sign of rich is when you blip the throttle and let out, it will drop below the steady idle rpm and slowly rise back to the set idle ...
My guess ... float height, more than likely higher in 1 carb than the other.

Soft throttle response alos = rich

Werase - K&N and pipe, only way 135 will work with stock needles is if floats are set 1/2 inch high. Then it will act semi normal except at low throttle openings ...

Which means edwardvdh - pis of your needles please ... you have DJ's in it, you're screwed ... you might as well do 135's.

Cool.
Buddha.

awesome... thanks. ill hopefully have time to look into it this weekend.

alright.. finally got time to get the carbs off again. the needles look good and smooth to me.. though i cant see the tips.  sorry, i dont want to take them out if i dont have to. i had a lot of trouble getting the diaphram back on last time on one of them... what do you mean by DJ's? and why then do 135's? that seems such a drastic reduction...

i guess ill start by getting the floats closer to spec. thanks

OK you're gonna have to pull the needles out and put up a pic.
The theory is this - needle is an obstruction in the emulsion tube. The inlet into that emulsion tube is controlled by the main jet.
If your obstruction is smaller as it will be with a thinner DJ needle, you will have to make your inlet jet (main jet) smaller to get the same flow.
That means, if you have DJ needles you need to get the DJ recomended 136 or what ever crap they're pushing ... so 135.
The stock needle is fat and its taper is very gradual, and does not have a sudden pointy part. That makes it very nice and gradual as well as very restrictive. To cover its extra heft ... like a rat stuck in a sewer pipe, we will ahve to let in more fluid for the same flow by fitting a larger main jet.
BTW the larger the number of the jet, its got a larger hole. 150 mains have a 1.5mm dia hole. The 135 has 1.35 mm and 125 has 1.25 mm.
Thinner needle = smaller main for the same flow as fatter needle with larger main.
Cool.
Buddha.

ok.... sorry for the late reply. thanks for the info buddha. that helps a lot. sorry, no pics, ive already put the carbs back on after setting the floats correctly this time. I was confused at what DJ needles are, but im guessing now some aftermarket performance needle.... and so no i dont have those. mine are still stock. but for whatever its worth, the body of the needles were smooth, no notches or anything. and i remember inspecting them when i took them apart the first time several months ago that the tips were good as well.
hmm... does this warrant turning the air screw in 1/2 turn? i guess it cant hurt to try, huh?...

oh yeah.. and the bike seems to be a little better after correcting the float levels, but still laggy in throttle. seems to bog down a lot at lower rpms.

thanks for the help!

edward

DJ= DynoJet.  They sell jet/needle kits to fine tune your carbs.

Quote from: edwardvdh on May 10, 2009, 04:50:35 PM
ok.... sorry for the late reply. thanks for the info buddha. that helps a lot. sorry, no pics, ive already put the carbs back on after setting the floats correctly this time. I was confused at what DJ needles are, but im guessing now some aftermarket performance needle.... and so no i dont have those. mine are still stock. but for whatever its worth, the body of the needles were smooth, no notches or anything. and i remember inspecting them when i took them apart the first time several months ago that the tips were good as well.
hmm... does this warrant turning the air screw in 1/2 turn? i guess it cant hurt to try, huh?...

oh yeah.. and the bike seems to be a little better after correcting the float levels, but still laggy in throttle. seems to bog down a lot at lower rpms.

thanks for the help!

edward

Bogging at low throttle suggests pilot and air screw set rich. K&N pod and pipe right ?
3 on air screw - yes down 1/2 or 1 whatever turns that makes it work. ...
You got non bleed pilots ? I sell you the pack ?
You have somehting going on that is a bit off ... how is it higher throttle openings. Especialy at higher loads. 1/4 throttle and up @3-9K in all gears, higher the better.
Cool.
Buddha.