Hi all,
This is my first post.  I have an '89 on which I just replaced the oil, filter, chain and sprockets.  It took me most of the day but everything turned out for the best.  However, now the bike does not want to shift.  I have checked my oil level (I used Suzuki brand) and my chain tension is within spec.  I'll make a list of what I know

1. Before, the bike shifted beautifully
2. Now it will shift 1-6 and back down with the sprocket/clutch cover off (clutch constantly engaged) That tells me that it is not a gearing problem
3. With the sprocket/clutch cover on the bike will shift 1st-2nd-3rd then I have to let out the clutch slightly for the bike to pop into 4th.  Same issues downshifting.  Sometime it is different gears that miss.
4. In addition, sometimes it behaves as though it is in neutral but the indicator light is not illuminated.
5. My clutch lever has about 15mm of free-play and both adjuster are backed out fairly far.
6. I also cleaned out a bunch of gunk from within the sprocket/clutch case and re-lubed.

Thanks for your help.

-ben

15 mm of freeplay on the clutch lever? Are you sure you're measuring it correctly? As I recall, the Haynes and Clymer manual have different clutch lever freeplay measurements and it is possible you used the wrong combination of technique and specification... I believe the clymer manual tells you to measure the gap between the lever and the lever perch and make that about 5mm. The Haynes manual has the much more fuzzy instruction of measuring the end of the lever's travel during freeplay. I'm willing to bet you measured between the lever and the perch and got 15mm when you should have 5mm, that would account for your problem...

I will double check, but I only have the Haynes manual so I never measured anywhere but the end of the lever. I agree with you that it is a "fuzzy" way to measure. Could it be that during the sprocket change I stretched or moved the clutch cable without it being noticable at the handlebars?

So after some careful cleaning, adjustments and a generous dose of deductive reasoning I figured it must have something to do with the new front sprocket and chain.  The old sprocket (probably original) was worn and loose around the shaft splines and the new one has no freeplay.  I also double checked the chain tension in multiple spot and found it to be tight.  I then leaned over the bike while it was upright to compress the swing-arm and the chain was noticeably tighter.  I adjusted the chain to 25mm of free-play.  Shifting was a little notchy on the center-stand but I took it out and it shifts fine.  From this experience I deduce that the clutch is old and is finicky or my chain was too tight and placing undue strain on the sprocket shaft.  Either way, it appears the problem is resolved.  Thanks to fred for having me eliminate the clutch cable as an issue.

No problem. I'm glad you fixed it. It is fairly common to have tight spots in the chain since it won't ever wear totally symmetrically, but you have that with a new chain and sprocket? I'm no great expert, but doesn't that mean something isn't quite right? If you just replaced the chain and sprockets, that would mean either your alignment wasn't perfect or something is bent... I'd investigate a bit further if I were you and try to figure out if anything is bent or worn beyond spec...

Good point, I will look into it.  As of now the wheel is aligned on each side according to the slots.  It rides true but I will investigage and keep you updated.  Thanks again.

Most likely reason for uneven tightness on a new chain is usually a bout of too tight a chain tension. Hit a bump and when the suspension compresses that part of the chain that's not on the sprocket gets stretched, because of the geometry there's a lot of stretching force put on the chain. I keep mine loose and after 15,000 miles my chain has literally worn only about 1 line's worth on the swingarm guides. I keep it about 1-1.25 inches of slack on the sidestand. And I'm not using a fancy gold plated x-ring chain with ultra rare whale oil grease and ivory magic rollers and all that other hokey snake oil. It's a $40 KMC clip chain I bought from ebay. One other secret is my chain lube, I don't use any spray to clean or lube it. Sprays contain solvents to thin it and make whatever is in the mix sprayable. That solvent can get under the o-rings and dissolve some grease. Instead I made a mix using a bottle of bardhal's no smoke (it's an oil thickener) and a quart of gear oil. Just mix both bottles up and that resulting mix has been working wonders it's thick enough to stay put and my theory is since it is never really solid like wax or grease it readily flows back to any spots without oil due to surface tension, also keeps o-rings conditioned cause bardhals has stop-leak in it which conditions and swells rubber seals. All you do is generously brush it on the chain, it'll soften up and dissolve the existing dirt, then wipe off the extra, I end up doing this every 1000 miles. Keep in mind my original chain only lasted 14,000 miles, my new chain with my maintenance regime has only worn out one line in 15,000 I'm probably looking at a 50,000+ mile chain for only $40.