Yeah, the tensioner is supposed to ratchet outwards, but not retract without manually turning the crew.

It's designed to take all the slack out of the cam chain when the loose portion passes the tnsioner, and then hold that position when tension caomes on that side of the chain.

Thanks

Well the tensioner is fine from your description. To ger it to retract you have to dis engage the locking clip on the rod and turn in the screw I think. To let it expand... release everything. To install in the motor... get it to retract almost entirely and hold the screw driver in place, release the clip and gingerly install it in the motor... then slowly let the screw driver spin under the spring power... and remember that should be the last thing you do. The camshafts have to be in, and timed right, the slack should be on the back side of the chain etc etc and even after installing it, I slowly turn the motor over by back wheel wihtout the plugs in. Then finally I put plugs in and turn it over with the back wheel. So by this point you know the cam chain has no slack in it.
Cool.
Srinath.

My tensioner broke putting it in but Kevin is sending a replacement so I should be able to try it in a few days.
Thanks, for the wheel turning tip. I will try it.

Happy, Happy, Joy, Joy    :mrgreen:  
Happy, Happy, Joy, Joy    :mrgreen:  
Happy, Happy, Joy, Joy    :mrgreen:  

My GS lives !!!!!
Not only does it run but its stalling problem seems to be history
Let this be a lesson to check you valves long before 16k miles.
Srinath, your suggestion of turning the wheel was the trick, to get it to start.
Kevin, your tensioner arrived a few hours ago and apppears to be great.
I would also like to give a big thanks to all the others who gave me great advice
Now, I am going to give the GS an oil change and maybe a bath. I was going to go to work but I figure I'll give the GS the weekend off. Maybe, take it to the Chinease New Years parade Saturday

Yea, I can finally let this thread die ! At least it didn't go 10 pages

Happy, Happy, Joy, Joy    :mrgreen:  
Happy, Happy, Joy, Joy    :mrgreen:  
Happy, Happy, Joy, Joy    :mrgreen:  

OK 16K... that must be the magic number... 16K mile interval for checking valves. The bike running fine now ??
Cool.
Srinath.

Runs great I took it out after a long warm up and resetting the idle to 12k and it pulled and stopped like the day I brought it home from the showroom     I got up to like 50mph and slammed on the brakes like an an emergency stop and the idle just went back to 12k. Several similar tests had the same results :mrgreen:

Also, the bit of cam lobe wear has me a little worried so I think I will get to checking them again in 5k miles. Maybe, then I can afford to replace the cam.

Glad to hear the tnsioner arrived as scheduled, and that it worked for you John!

Which cam is scored? I have one good spare cam, but I can't remember which one it is at the moment. Or I have a head with a fresh valve job, some porting work, and a good set of cams for $70...!

In my 89 the right intake cam was scored... I saw that at 8K miles... and at 43K its still scored, just has maybe worn a little and looks less obvious. I believe it makes no diff, and actually it will pick oil and hold it and that might prevent it from getting worse. Just my observation.
Cool.
Srinath.

WOW a spare head for $70 That is a great deal ! Unfortanatly, I'll be strapped for another month. If another member wants it, they should snap it up. Otherwise, I'll hit you up next month.

The scoring is centered on the the right exhaust lobe. It is not even on the pointy end but like anther 90 degrees around. It looks like some one shot it with a bb gun. That is also the shim I had to go three sizes down to get into spec.

Another trick I learned, that I forgot to mention.
If your valves are to tight to get the feeler gauge in and you can't find a gauge that goes lower that .038. You can buy a really small shim and then you will have enough room to get the feeler gauge in there.

Quote from: JohNLAAnother trick I learned, that I forgot to mention.
If your valves are to tight to get the feeler gauge in and you can't find a gauge that goes lower that .038. You can buy a really small shim and then you will have enough room to get the feeler gauge in there.

Great idea!  Now why didn't _I_ think ouf that?

I guess we're even; you said something similar about my Stupid Magnetic Tank Bag Tricks.

I didn't actually think of it, until after I went to return two of the four shims I originally bought (.250's). I assumed I needed two .245's but they didn't have any, only one .240. I was on my way to anther shop when I figured out that I should be able to get an acurate measurement with the small shim. Luckily, I did go home first and it turned out I did need that .240 but when I put that same .240 in the last valve the clearance read .10. So, at that point I was sure I only needed a .245 for that last one. A final measurement once the .245 was in, proved my trick was acurate.

woot for john...

Quote from: KevinCGlad to hear the tnsioner arrived as scheduled, and that it worked for you John!

Which cam is scored? I have one good spare cam, but I can't remember which one it is at the moment. Or I have a head with a fresh valve job, some porting work, and a good set of cams for $70...!

i'm interested in that cyl head....can you email me...

thanks

QuoteI have a head with a fresh valve job,

pm already sent

Weren't you having problems with your battery?  What ever happened with that?

ASLAM.

I started a new thread since this thread mostly talked about the valve shims.
Here is the thread
http://www.gstwins.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6658
It turned out I need a new starter. Now, I am waiting on it, to get here.