One more question. In the rejetting tutorial he drains the carbs through the drain nipple. What kind of hose do I need to get for this? I don't have random hoses sitting in my garage I can use.

You can put a small cup right under the carb, like the cap of a WD40 can and drain into that.
Cool.
Buddha.

ok, i've started this project. The carbs are out of the bike and I'm about to work on them. In the meantime, there's a few differences on the 07 that I didn't see on the poorman's guide.

1) The airbox has a total of 3 hoses going to it. 1 is the drain, the other goes to the crank case and one other larger hose that goes to this metal thing that goes to the frame. What is this? It obviously can't go into the lunchbox filter so what am I supposed to do with this? This hose went into the same side of the airbox as where the drain was.

2) There's some electrical plugs hooked into the side of the right side carb that isn't mentioned. What are those for?

3) Argh...I stripped the bowl drain screw on the right carb. Do I have to fix it now or can I replace it later?

where in Queens are you exactly?
I might be able to come over so you can take a look at how I routed the hoses and other things 
don't put your address in here - PM me if you wish

cheers
KML

Thanks for the offer but I think I'm done. What a clusta-fawk of an install. I was able to use the vice-grip method to get rid of every screw except one for each carb bowl and one for each cap....argh. I was eventually able to get the last screw out on both carbs holding the bowl in by using the dremmel method (dremmel a straight line through the middle so I could get a nice big flat head in there) and replacing the jets was pretty straightforward. I put everything back together using the allen screws buddah provided. Now, I got 147.5 mains, 20 pilots and 65 mids as well as 4 washers. I couldnt' put the washers in since I couldn't get the screws off the caps. How will this affect me? I remember buddah gave me two options, one with just mains, pilots, washers and screws and the other for a bit more money included the mids. I opted to get the mids. If I remember correctly, upping the mids is the same as adding washers so I should be ok right?

Anyway, I put the bike back together, remember to put the petcock back on under the tank, set it to pri for about 3 seconds and started her up. She did without hesitation. Unfortunately, I couldnt' get to adjusting the screws at idle since it was 11:30pm and my neighbors would've probably killed me if I had tried even warming the bike up at this time during the week. I'll see if I can adjust the screws tomorrow or friday and take her out for a spin. I guess I have a few questions:

1) Was it ok for me to leave out the washers?
2) When I put in the new jets, i didn't count how many turns and so one I made when I put them in, how will I know they're both set to the same "value" to start with?
3) Where are the pilor air screws? I know it's under the carb but which hole is it in relation to the drain screw? Also, I just use the tip from a flat head screwdriver correct?

Also for reference, the extra hose on the 07 (and probably the 04+) airbox goes to the PAIR system. There's also a smaller hose going to this system and I couldn't find where it's supposed to connect to. According to the Haynes manual, it's supposed to get to right hand carb but where? Is it a problem if I just leave it disconnected?

Ah crap, after some more reading, it sounds like I have to drill out a cap that covers the screw? Which means removing the carb again...ugh.

yup, the 3 turns out relates NOT to the jets but to the air/fuel mixture screw that is under that brass cap.

now since you know the entire process, it will be much quicker to remove the carbs than the first time 

good luck

Quote from: kml.krk on June 17, 2009, 11:16:13 PM
yup, the 3 turns out relates NOT to the jets but to the air/fuel mixture screw that is under that brass cap.

now since you know the entire process, it will be much quicker to remove the carbs than the first time 

good luck

Ugh, ok...I guesss I'll have to remove it again. You're right, I can probably remove it in 30 or so minutes now. It's really the fuel hoses under the tank that really pisses me off. I went riding on Wednesday night and filled up so my tank has a little over 4 gallons left in it.

Quote from: steguis on June 17, 2009, 10:13:35 PM
Ah crap, after some more reading, it sounds like I have to drill out a cap that covers the screw? Which means removing the carb again...ugh.

I don't know at what point they changed, but my 08 didn't have to drill out, it's simply acccessible as standard (there is no cap). You may be in luck with an 07 and not have to drill them out. You'll be able to tell by having a look quite easily.

Oooo.....that would be very good news. I'll check it out tomorrow. Which "hole" exactly is the location of the air adjustment screw?

Nope the 07 still has the caps on it but the hole is already drilled, all I had to do was use a wood screw, screw it in there good, the first few turns will strip out a little brass then it will bite. dont go in too far as to hit the screw My plugs were a little over an 1/8 inch thick maybe a 1/4 somewhere in between.

Quote from: Chanse on June 18, 2009, 06:59:49 PM
Nope the 07 still has the caps on it but the hole is already drilled, all I had to do was use a wood screw, screw it in there good, the first few turns will strip out a little brass then it will bite. dont go in too far as to hit the screw My plugs were a little over an 1/8 inch thick maybe a 1/4 somewhere in between.

Yep, I just went to see my bike and verified this. I see two brass caps under there. One is higher up (if you're look from underneath) and is wider while the other is more narrow. Which is the air adjustment screw cap?

should be the smaller one further out from center on the carb, (closer to the edge.)

Quote from: Chanse on June 18, 2009, 07:35:48 PM
should be the smaller one further out from center on the carb, (closer to the edge.)

Thanks. I was going over the carb diagram and looked at some pics in my haynes manual and the screw does look pretty narrow so yeah, that does sound right. oh well, more fun I guess. If this is the only problem I encounter, I'll be happy.

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=47926.0

here is a link to another post for which brass caps to remove.

Ok, I got this done today. It only took me 2 hours vs the 7 hours it took me the first time. Drilling the brass cap was a PITA but eventually they came loose. Anyhow, I finally got the idle to be nice after about 1 and 3/4 turn. The bike runs smoothly. Revving it in neutral doesn't cause any dips in the RPMs or hanging. I took it out for a gentle ride and didn't hear or feel anything unusual so I took her for a highway run...pulls very nicely from about 3.5K all the way to 10K. There's no hesitation in the bike or any flat spots I could detect and release the throttle didn't result in any popping (at least none that I could hear). It was also good that I redid this since it turns out I got a two hoses mixed up but after much headache trying to extrapolate what I should do on an 07 after reading all the documents that really are for the older gen bikes, I am VERY HAPPY that I did this. The bike sounds really raw right now....it groans like a pissed off bull

Thanks to everyone who helped!

I would've done a full writeup with pics but I didn't have any help so trying to figure stuff out and take pictures just wasn't going to happen. I guess just a general note for anyone attempting this going forward on an 07 (or similar model - I guess K4 chassis and higher)

- Draw a diagram how your hoses are routed...they look NOTHING like what everyone has been posting on this forum
- Don't forget to drill out that stupid brass cap while you have the carbs out. This is a detail that isn't mentioned in any of the instructions until you put everything back and scratch your head about where the air mixture screw is and do a search on the forum.
- If you're going to shim the needles, get some replacement screws for the cap coz those can strip as well.
- You may want to order an extra carb drain screw or two because those can strip as well (wtf doesn't get stripped on this bike?)
-We also have a TPS sensor connected to the right side carb, disconnect that as well as the other white electrical plug at the bottom of the right side carb
- If you're going to permanently remove the airbox, you can use the drain hose when you drain the carb bowls
- We have 3 jets instead of 2. Two of the three look alike so make sure you read the values of the old jets and what you're replacing them with so you don't mix them up.

^^^^^
good points up there.

as far as stripping the screws goes: before attempting to unscrew a screw take a phillips head screw driver and place it on a screw head and then hit it quite hard with a hammer (just regular phillips head screw driver and hammer is OK. none of those fancy impact screw drivers are necessary)
and THEN unscrew the screw. It works flawlessly almost all the time.

I just replaced all DynoJet jests with mikuni and I did not strip even one screw using that method 

PS. The instruction that comes with DynoJet kit tells you about drilling the brass cap BEFORE you put everything together 

Next time you do it steguis, don't even need to take the carbs off. Simply loosen them from the boots, leave all hoses conncted, and just rotate them up till you can get access to the screws. Saves a lot of time and effort.

Got a chance to ride her a bit some more this morning and put together these two vids. The first vid is just a walkaround of the bike and what I've done to it:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KM6koQSMUoY

*EDIT: Here's a better one of the bike running...the "yeeehaaaaw" was me revving to 10K

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YQqDHKJfBug

i haven't had a chance to pull the plugs yet but the felt a bit lean up to about quarter throttle with occasional pop or when slowing down so I closed the air mixture screw by about half a turn and last night she was a dream to ride.