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Fork seal replacement question

Started by bill14224, May 31, 2009, 09:45:07 AM

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bill14224

My right fork seal has begun weeping.  I just ordered new fork seals.  I have a Suzuki service manual and it says to also replace the outer and inner anti-friction bushings and dust seals along with the oil seals.  My dust seals look new and the bike has just under 20,000 miles on it, so I'd like to know if anyone who as done this themselves has replaced just the seals and oil of course and had good results, or did they find that it's important to replace all the parts mentioned.  If it means anything, the oil I just wiped off the fork is clear and clean.
V&H pipes, K&N drop-in, seat by KnoPlace.com, 17/39 sprockets, matching grips, fenderectomy, short signals, new mirrors - 10 scariest words: "I'm here from the government and I'm here to help!"

gsJack

I just changed my left fork seal which was leaking badly at approx 69,000 miles, no other parts.  Bearings looked good with little play and the outer wiper looked OK.  I bought 2 seals and if the other leaks I'll replace it too.  If it's not broke I don't fix it.   :thumb:
407,400 miles in 30 years for 13,580 miles/year average.  Started riding 7/21/84 and hung up helmet 8/31/14.

bill14224

Thanks, Jack!  If it's good enough for GSJack it's good enough for me!  :thumb:
V&H pipes, K&N drop-in, seat by KnoPlace.com, 17/39 sprockets, matching grips, fenderectomy, short signals, new mirrors - 10 scariest words: "I'm here from the government and I'm here to help!"

simoniz

I'd just do the oil seals if that is all that is gone. The rubber on the dust seals gets hard over time, but we are talking 10-15 years here. If they are supple, leave them alone.
89 GS500e, K & N Lunchbox, Buddha jet kit, GS550 front forks, GS850 fender, ProMaxx tires and a big dollop of luck

intergalactic

I just did my fork seals. I replaced some old and hard dust seals, too.

The slider bushings were probably at the wear spec, but I didn't have them so I just threw them back in.

I had a very difficult time forcing the (genuine suzuki)  oil seals in enough to allow the retention clip to seat. I am not sure I actually got it in far enough.

I added the required volume 20 weight oil- to better match the 0.95kgf/mm springs.

It wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. A rubber strap wrench works well in lieu of a soft-jaw vice. 

And rethreading of the top cap is easier if you use a paper towel soaked in simple green for traction on the fork tube.

Quote from: bill14224 on May 31, 2009, 09:45:07 AM
My right fork seal has begun weeping.  I just ordered new fork seals.  I have a Suzuki service manual and it says to also replace the outer and inner anti-friction bushings and dust seals along with the oil seals.  My dust seals look new and the bike has just under 20,000 miles on it, so I'd like to know if anyone who as done this themselves has replaced just the seals and oil of course and had good results, or did they find that it's important to replace all the parts mentioned.  If it means anything, the oil I just wiped off the fork is clear and clean.
1992 GS500E- 40/125 jets, '08 petcock
Aerostich roadcrafter/Sidi Vortice Air/Shoei X-11/Cortech Scarab gloves
SS front line (thanks ineedanap!)
metisse sliders (thanks grayghost) still working on the front motor mount
1992 GSXR600 shock .95kg/mm fronts springs, 20W oil
Yama JN6-F4560-00 filte

lilbill

Yeah, just replace what needs it.  When you look at the bushings, I was always told if the nickel-looking coating is more than half worn off they need replaced.  Keep in mind too that the dust seals keep all of the crap away from the oil seals...so if they are worn for $20 just change em out, IMHO.

sledge

When fork bushes wear they tend to become oval, the larger diameter of the oval being parallel to the front wheel due to the forces imposed on them during breaking.  I have had a few MOT failures as a result of this conditon and the symptoms are similar to a worn/loose headstock bearing i.e clunking and wandering/instability during front wheel braking. Its a difficult thing to detect without removing each fork from the clamps.

To check for wear:
Clamp each fork leg in a vice with the axlebolt axis horizontal. Push/pull the tube backwards and forwards horizontaly and determine if there is any serious movement between the tube and the leg. Then turn the leg through 90degs and try again. Any wear will be obvious, if its a really bad one as well as having play it may well generate a clicking/tapping sound as you flex the tube against the leg.

intergalactic

oh well, I guess I will rebuild again this fall. For now I just want to ride.

1992 GS500E- 40/125 jets, '08 petcock
Aerostich roadcrafter/Sidi Vortice Air/Shoei X-11/Cortech Scarab gloves
SS front line (thanks ineedanap!)
metisse sliders (thanks grayghost) still working on the front motor mount
1992 GSXR600 shock .95kg/mm fronts springs, 20W oil
Yama JN6-F4560-00 filte

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